\ 


1 


LYNN 


AND 


JL 


INGS 


Clarence  W.  Hobbs. 


ILL  US  TEA  TED . 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1886,  by 
Lewis  & Winship,  Publishers, 
in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


i 


List  of  Illustrations,  ........  Pages  4, 

Preface,  ........... 

“High  Rock,”  .......... 

Introduction — “ Lynn  and  Surroundings,”  ...... 

Saugus,  .......  .... 

“ Saugust  is  called  Lin,”  ........ 

Lynn  Legends. 

Bride  of  Pennacook,  ........ 

The  Pirates'  Glen , ......... 

Dungeon  Rock,  ......... 

Treasure  of  Pines  Point,  ........ 

The  Quaker  Invasion,  ........ 

The  Witchcraft  Tragedy,  ........ 

Moll  Pitcher,  .......... 

The  Sea  Serpent,  .......... 

City  of  Lynn,  .......... 

Leadipg  Industries,  ......... 

Among  the  Churches  ......... 

Glimpses  of  the  Town,  ......... 

Organizations,  .......... 

Some  Lynn  People, 

Lynn  and  Surroundings,  ........ 


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Frontispiece — High  Rock, 

Title  Heading — Lynn  and  Surroundings, 

Natural  Scenery. — Foot  of  Nahant  street, 

Across  the  Marshes,  .... 

Cliff  Rock  .... 

Lake  Wenuchus,  .... 

A Glimpse  of  the  Marsh, 

Phaeton  Rock,  .... 

Floating  Bridge,  .... 

Great  Dwarf  Rock,  .... 

Red  Rock,  .... 

Tedesco  Rocks,  Swampscott, 

Ascent  to  Dungeon  Rock, 

Entrance  to  Dungeon  Rock, 

Dread  Ledge,  .... 

Eastern  Point,  Nahant,  .... 
Nahant  Breakers,  .... 
Breakwater,  Lynn  Beach, 

Sliding  Rock,  .... 

Spring  Pond,  ..... 
Waite’s  Well,  .... 

Breed’s  Pond,  .... 

Lovers’  Leap,  .... 

Lynn  Beach,  ..... 
Strawberry  Brook, 

Hunters’  Cabin  in  the  Woods,  near  Flax  Pond, 

Historical  Sketches. — Indian  Maiden, 

First  Map  of  Saugus.  A.  Lewis . 

Early  Homes  in  Saugus, 

Abijah  Boardman  Homestead,  Saugus, 

Indian  Signatures  to  Deed  of  Lynn, 

Old  Town  Hall,  .... 
Southwest  Side  of  Market  street, 

a a a 

Old  Anchor  Tavern,  .... 
First  R.  R Station  in  Lynn, 

Dark  Entrance  to  Pirates’  Cave,  . 

Relics  from  Pirates  Cave, 

Old  Anvil  from  Pirates’  Cave, 

Treasure  Digger  at  Pines  Point, 

The  Ark,  Fayette  street, 

Auction  Sale  of  a Quaker, 

Witches’  Ride  to  Meeting, 

Execution  of  Ann  Hibbins,  . 

Parsonage,  Salem  Village, 

Witches’  Attendants, 

Moll  Pitcher,  ..... 
Moll  Pitcher’s  Cottage, 

Grave  of  Moll  Pitcher,  .... 
Sea  Serpent,  . . . 

Old  Shoe  Shop,  .... 

Primitive  Shoemaking, 

“ Hannah  at  the  Window,  Binding  Shoes,” 

Shed  at  West  Lynn, 

Map  of  Lynn  fifty  years  ago, 

Blue  Tavern,  Liberty  street, 

Hawthorne  House,  .... 
Early  Settlers,  .... 

Views  of  LynN. — Lynn,  looking  southeast  from  High  Rock, 
Lynn,  from  Nahant  road, 

West  Lynn  and  Lynn  Common,  from  City  Hall  Tower, 
Looking  south,  from  A.  B.  Martin’s  residence,  . 

Scene  in  Maple  street,  Old  Parrott  Homestead, 

Gold  Fish  Pond,  .... 


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LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


i 


Views  of  Lynn,  Continued. — Old  Houses  on  Boston  street, 
Sketch  on  Walnut  street,  Old  Shoe  Shop, 

Lynn  Harbor,  Yacht  Regatta, 

Mt.  Vernon  street,  ..... 
Willow  street,  .... 

Central  square,  ..... 
Early  Morning  in  Union  street,  . 

Mall,  on  the  Common,  .... 
Commercial  street,  . 

Looking  down  Market  street, 

Soldier’s  Monument,  City  Hall  square, 

Frog  Pond  on  the  Common, 

Market  square,  .... 

The  Common,  from  Market  square, 

Looking  up  Mall  street, 

Entrance  to  Pine  Grove  Cemetery, 

The  Garden  in  Pine  Grove  Cemetery, 

Washington  street,  .... 

Highland  square,  .... 

Nahant  street,  ..... 

Newhall  street,  .... 

Baltimore  street,  ..... 

Tudor  street,  ..... 

Ocean  street,  ..... 

Munroe  street,  .... 

Egg  Rock,  by  Moonlight,  .... 
Egg  Rock,  by  Sunlight,  .... 
P'ranklin  Square,  East  Saugus, 

Lincoln  Avenue,  East  Saugus, 

Swampscott,  ..... 

Lincoln  House,  Swampscott, 

Nahant,  ...... 

Map  of  Nahant,  .... 

Nahant  Beach,  ..... 

Bass  Beach,  ..... 

Buildings. — Lynn  City  Hall,  City  Hall  square, 

C.  D.  Pecker  & Co.’s  Factory,  Central  square, 

Ashcroft  Building,  Union  street, 

Alley  Building,  Union  street, 

Buffum  Block,  Union  street, 

V.  K.  & A.  H.  Jones’  Factory,  Broad  street, 

J.  N.  Buffum  & Co.’s  Block,  Broad  street, 

Lennox  Block,  Market  street, 

D.  A.  Caldwell  & Co.’s  Factory,  Oxford  street, 

Morgan  & Dore’s  Factory,  Oxford  street,  . 

Lucius  Beebe  & Son’s  P'actory,  West  Lynn, 

Boscobel  Hotel,  Market  square,  . 

Hotel  Nahant,  Nahant  road, 

Home  fur  Aged  Women,  North  Common  street, 

Lynn  Hospital,  Boston  street,  . 

Children’s  Home,  Boston  street,  . 

City  Almshouse,  Boston  street, 

Massachusetts  Temperance  Home,  New  Ocean  street, 
Grand  Army  Building,  Andrew  street, 

Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  Building,  Market  street, 
Odd  Fellows’  Building,  Market  street, 

Lee  Hall,  City  Hall  square, 

First  National  Bank,  cor;  Broad  and  Exchange  streets,  . 
Highland  School,  Highlands, 

Cobbett  School,  Franklin  street, 

Shepard  School,  Warren  street,  . 

Broad  Street  Engine  House, 

Fayetle  Street  Engine  House, 

Federal  Street  Engine  House, 

Old  Lyceum  Building,  Market  street, 

Churches. — Original  First  Church, 

Second  P'irst  Church,  “ Old  Tunnel,” 

Third  First  Church,  now  Second  Universalist,  . 


6 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Churches,  Continued. — Fourth  First  Church,  burned  in  1870, 

First  Church,  Congregational,  South  Common  street, 

Central  Congregational  Church,  Silsbee  street, 

North  Congregational  Church,  Laighton  street, 

The  Old  Bowery  ” Church,  site  of  Lee  Hall, 

First  Methodist  Church,  City  Hall  square, 

St  Paul’s  Methodist  Church,  Union  street,  . 

South  Street  Methodist  Church,  .... 
Boston  Street  Methodist  Church, 

First  Baptist  Church,  North  Common  street, 

Washington  Street  Baptist  Church, 

East  Baptist  Church,  Union  street,  .... 
First  Universalist  Church,  Nahant  street,  . 

Christ  Church,  North  Common  street,  .... 
Interior  of  St.  Stephen’s  Church, 

St.  Stephen’s  Episcopal  Church,  South  Common  street,  . 

Chapel  of  the  Incarnation,  Estes  street, 

St.  Mary’s  Church,  City  Hall  square,  .... 

Portraits. — Mary  Pitcher,  (Moll  Pitcher), 

Hon.  George  Hood,  Lynn’s  First  Mayor, 

Hon.  Peter  M.  Neal,  Lynn’s  War  Mayor,  . 

Rev.  Parsons  Cooke,  formerly  of  First  Church, 

Rev.  James  L.  Hill,  North  Church, 

Rev.  James  M.  Pullman,  D.D.,  First  Universalist  Church, 

E.  Redington  Mudge,  Donor  of  St.  Stephen’s  Church, 

Rev.  F.  L.  Norton,  D.D.,  St.  Stephen’s  Church, 

Rev.  John  L.  Egbert,  Church  of  the  Incarnation, 

Richard  W.  Drown,  ..... 

A.  C.  Moody,  ..... 

Alonzo  Lewis,  ...... 

Judge  J.  R.  Newhall.  ..... 

David  N.  Johnson,  ..... 

Hon.  John  B.  Alley,  ..... 

John  B.  Tolman,  ...... 

Hon.  Wm.  F.  Johnson,  .... 

Hon.  James  N.  Bufifum,  ..... 

Benj.  F.  Doak,  . ... 

Francis  W.  Breed,  ...... 

Hon.  Josiah  C.  Bennett,  .... 

John  P.  Woodbury,  ..... 

Hon.  John  R.  Baldwin,  ..... 

Henry  F.  Hurlburt,  Esq.,  ..... 

Hon.  Geo.  D.  Hart,  ..... 

Hon.  Henry  B.  Lovering,  . 

Chas.  O.  Beede,  ..  ..  . 

Col.  Gardiner  Tufts,  ..... 

Gen.  B.  F.  Peach,  ..... 

Hon.  F.  D.  Allen,  ...... 

Capt.  John  G.  B.  Adams,  .... 

Wm.  A Clark,  Jr.,  . 

David  Walker,  ..... 

Hon.  Frank  W.  Jones,  ..... 

Horace  A.  Roberts,  . . 

RESIDENCES. — Roland  G.  Usher  Homestead,  City  Hall  square, 

John  T.  Moulton’s  Home,  Mall  street, 

Judge  J.  R.  Newhall’s  Cottage,  Walnut  street,  . 

John  3V.  Uealey’s  Residence,  Washington  street, 

G,  K.  Gfnrk’s  Residence,  cor.  Western  avenue  and  Washington  street, 
S.  C.  Ncwhall’s  Residence,  Highland  square, 

Hutchinson  Cottage,  High  Rock,  .... 
Residence  of  A.  B.  Martin,  High  Rock  avenue, 

Residence  of  Hon.  J.  N.  BuflFum,  Herbert  street, 

Residence  of  Hon.  J.  ('.  Bennett,  Beacon  Hill  avenue, 

Residence  of  Hon.  J.  B.  Alley,  Nahant  street,  . 

Residence  of  Eugene  Barry,  Nahant  street, 

Residence  of  F.  W.  Breed,  Ocean  street, 

Residence  of  J.  P.  Woodbury.  Nahant  street. 

Residence  of  Joseph  N.  Smith,  Ocean  street,  . 


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Feftam 


9 


N dedicating  this  book  to  those  very  dear  friends,  the  reading  public,  a few 
® words  of  explanation  and  acknowledgement  may  be  in  order. 

The  aim  has  not  been  to  produce  a new  history  of  Lynn,  for  the  work  of 
& Lewis,  Newhall,  and  others  in  that  line,  in  point  of  completeness,  leaves  very 
little  to  be  desired.  Neither  is  this  work  designed  as  a guide  book,  though 
I possibly  it  might  serve  a stranger  tolerably  well  in  that  capacity. 

The  writer  has  simply  sought  to  reproduce  in  as  attractive  garb  as  possible, 
the  impressions  received  by  him  in  his  endeavor  to  become  acquainted  with  our 
Lynn  and  her  Surroundings,  her  people  and  her  history ; and  the  book  is 
commended  to  its  readers  in  the  hope  that  they  may  share  in  the  ‘interest  and 
pleasure  which  the  work  of  preparation  has  brought  to  him. 

Nothing  is  claimed  on  the  score  of  originality.  All  sources  of  information 
have  been  remorselessly  drawn  upon,  so  that  it  is  simply — 

“ A handful  of  culled  flowers  I bring, 

With  nothing  of  my  own,  except  the  string 
That  binds  them.” 

Acknowledgments  are  therefore  due  in  many  quarters.  To  make  them  in 
order  would  be  tedious  ; consequently  all  must  be  expressed  in  a single  compre- 
hensive bow. 

In  selecting  the  subjects  for  illustration  an  effort  has  been  made  to  so  distribute 
them  that  they  might  serve  not  only  to  illumine  the  text,  but  also  to  enable  the 
person  examining  them,  perchance  an  absent  son  of  Lynn,  to  obtain  something 
of  an  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the  city,  and  to  this  end  the  List  of  Illustrations 
will  be  found  of  especial  usefulness. 

The  work  has  been  made  as  complete  as  its  limits  would  allow.  One  is, 
however,  strongly  impressed  with  the  transitory  nature  of  things  by  the  fact  that 
the  changes  wrought  by  the  spirit  of  progress  and  improvement,  and  by  death, 
since  this  work  was  undertaken,  have  already  transformed  some  pages  of  this 
record  of  to-day  into  history.  No  attempt  will  be  made  to  point  these  out, 
neither  to  correct  some  slight  errata  ; some  will  surely  find  them  out,  and  those 
who  do  not  will  be  quite  as  happy,  not  knowing. 


Overlooking  the  town  of  Lynn, 

So  far  above  that  the  city’s  din 
> Mingles  and  blends  with  the  heavy  roar 
| Of  the  breakers  along  the  curving  shore; 

Scarred  and  furrowed  and  glacier-seamed 
Back  in  the  ages  so  long  ago 
The  boldest  philosopher  never  dreamed 
To  count  the  centuries’  ebb  and  flow; 

Stands  a rock,  with  its  gray  old  face 
Eastward  ever  turned,  to  the  place 
Where  first  the  rim  of  the  sun  is  seen, 

Whenever  the  morning  sky  is  bright, 

Cleaving  the  glistening,  glancing  sheen 
Of  the  sea  with  a disc  of  insufferable  light. 

Down  in  the  earth  its  roots  strike  deep; 

Up  to  his  breast  the  houses  creep, 

Climbing  e’en  to  his  rugged  face, 

Or  nestling  lovingly  at  his  base. 

Stand  on  his  forehead,  bare  and  brown; 

Send  your  gaze  o’er  the  roofs  of  the  town 
Away  to  the  line,  so  faint  and  dim, 

Where  the  sky  stoops  down  to  the  crystal  rim 
Of  the  broad  Atlantic,  whose  billows  toss, 

Wrestling  and  weltering  and  hurrying  on 

With  awful  fury,  whenever  across 

His  broad,  bright  surface,  with  howl  and  moan, 

The  tempest  whirls,  with  black  wing  bowed 
To  the  yielding  waters  which  fly  to  the  cloud, 

Or  hurry  along,  with  thunderous  shocks, 

To  break  on  the  ragged  and  riven  rocks. 

When  the  tide  comes  in  on  a sunny  day, 

You  can  see  the  waves  break  back  in  spray 
From  the  splintered  spurs  of  Phillips’  Head; 

Or,  tripping  along  with  dainty  tread, 

As  of  a million  glancing  feet. 

Shake  out  the  light  in  a quick  retreat; 

Or  along  the  smooth  curve  of  the  beach, 

Snowy  and  curling,  in  long  lines  reach 

An  islet,  anchored  and  held  to  land 

By  a glistening,  foam-fringed  ribbon  of  sand  — 

That  is  Nahant,  and  that  hoary  ledge 

To  the  left  is  Egg  Rock,  like  a blunted  wedge 

Cleaving  the  restless  ocean’s  breast, 

And  bearing  the  light-house  on  its  crest. 

— Elizabeth  F.  Merrill. 


I"*  YNN  is  like  no  other  New  England  city. 
-LI  Both  in  situation  and  surroundings,  she 
I has  a beauty  and  a charm  all  her  own, 
and  in  her  natural  physical  characteristics  is 
displayed  a marked  individuality.  All  the 
varied  scenes  of  town,  sea- shore  and  country 
are  found  within  her  borders.  “ The  farmer  drives  his  team  afield  ” not  far 
from  the  stirring  mart,  and  the  fisherman  mends  his  nets  in  sight  of  the  tower- 
ing, smoke-wreathed  chimneys  of  the  large  factories,  i But  a short  distance 
northward  from  the  City  Hall  are  bosky  dells  between  the  hills  where  one  may 
hide,  and  many  peaceful  lakes  where  the  wanderer  may  catch  the  reflection  of 
wooded  shore  and  shadowy  cloud  ; while  nearer  still,  in  the  opposite  direction, 
is  the  smooth  beach,  where  one  may  walk  the  shining  sand,  plunge  beneath  the 
curling  breakers,  or  from  the  neighboring  cliff  count  the  sails  .and  watch  the 
mightv  pulsations  of  the  restless  heart  of  ocean,  as  with  ceaseless  throbs  she 
sends  the  wavelets  hurrying  toward  the  shore.  Or,  better  still,  if  one  has  but 
■an  hour  for  sight-seeing,  let  him  climb  the  stairs  to  the  top  of  the  rugged  observ- 
atory built  by  nature,  ages  before  man  built  the  town,  and  a wondrous  panorama 
unfolds  before  his  eyes.  At  his  feet  lie  the  city  and  the  shore  ; on  the  landward 
side  the  view  is  limited  only  by  the  dark  background  of  evergreen-clad  hills, 
while  toward  the  sea  the  scene  dies  away  in  the  purple  haze  which  hangs  like 
a veil  over  the  bosom  of  the  ocean.  No  point  of  view  on  the  Atlantic  gives  a 
larerer  return  for  so  little  effort,  and  no  other  city  of  the  New  World  can  boast  of 

o - 

such  an  endless  variety  of  landscape  and  sea-view,  hill  and  valley,  lake  and  river, 
cottage-crowned  cliff  and  rock-bound  shore,  with  the  bright  waters  of  the  bay 


14 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


dimpling  and  sparkling  in  the  sunlight.  On  a clear  day  the  scene  is  full  of  life 
and  light,  and  is  inspiring  and  exhilarating  in  a high  degree.  But  when  the 
storm  cloud  hangs  over  the  waters,  and  the  huge  waves  seem  to  gather  their 
forces  for  a final  assault  upon  the  opposing  rocks,  and  the  spray  flies  in  clouds 
far  up  on  the  shore,  the  scene  is  full  of  grandeur. 

Let  us  together  visit  High  Rock,  and  see  these  things  for  ourselves.  One 
hundred  and  seventy  feet  to  the  top  ; and  approached  from  the  northward,  the 
ascent  is  gradual  and  easy ; but  on  the  seaward  side  both  wind  and  limb  get 
well  tested,  though  the  climb  is  now  facilitated  by  successive  flights  of  steps 
set  in  an  iron  frame-work  upon  the  face  of  the  cliff. 

There  was  once  a wooden  tower  on  the  summit  of  the  rock,  but  one  night 
it  disappeared  in  smoke  ; and  now  we  take  our  stand  upon  the  bare  rock,  or  lean 
against  the  flag-staff.  The  eye  naturally  turns  first  toward  the  sea.  At  the  left 
is  the  village  of  Swampscott,  with  its  cluster  of  fishing-boats  and  white  beach 
covered  with  dories  and  fishing-nets  spread  out  to  dry.  Further  out  is  Baker’s 
Island,  with  its  light,  the  white  towers  of  Marblehead,  and  on  a clear  day  is 
seen  the  distant  headland  of  Cape  Ann.  Off  to  the  right  are  the  dark  brown 
monument  of  Bunker  Hill  and  the  gilded  dome  on  Beacon  Hill.  Further  to  the 
north  we  get  a glimpse  of  Wachusett  rising  above  the  succession  of  lesser  hills, 
and  to  the  south  the  Blue  Hills  of  Milton  lie  misty  in  the  distance.  Nearer 
stretches  out  the  graceful  curve  of  Crescent  Beach,  and  directly  in  front  of  us 


MAPLE  STREET,  GLENMERE. 

is  the  harbor,  its  bounds  determined  on  the  one  hand  by  the  Point  of  Pines,  and 
on  the  other  by  the  dark  rocks  of  the  Nahants  — those  twin  gems  of  the  North 
Shore,  connected  with  the  mainland  only  by  a narrow  neck  of  sand  — 

*‘A  snowy  ribbon,  fringed  with  foam.” 

Lying  low  in  the  waters  of  the  bay,  seemingly  no  larger  than  a fisherman’s 
dory,  is  Egg  Rock,  with  its  white  light-house,  for  thirty  years  a faithful  sentinel 
on  a dangerous  coast.  Around  to  the  northeast  are  seen  the  hills  and  plains  of 


GOLD-FISH  POND. 


15 


Danvers  and  Peabody,  while  through  a gap  in  the  hills  we  catch  a glimpse  of 
our  near  neighbor,  Salem.  Back  from  the  town  stretch  a ledgy  range  of  hills — 
of  which  High  Rock  is  the  most  easterly  — their  sides  clothed  with  dark  green 
trees,  save  where  these  have  given  way  to  beautiful  cottages,  and  occasionally  a 
more  stately  residence  ; and  each  of  them  has  its  name  : Lover’s  Leap,  a steep 

cliff  one  hundred  feet  high  from  its  base,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  from  the 
sea  level ; Pine  Hill,  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet  high,  at  the  southwestern 
extremity  of  which  is  Saddler’s  Rock,  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high  ; and 
among  them  are  the  Pirates’  Cave,  Dungeon  Rock,  Glen  Lewis,  and  many  other 
beautiful  spots  made  doubly  interesting  by  the  halo  of  legend  and  romance  which 
surrounds  their  names. 

At  our  feet  lies  the  city,  circling  around  on  either  side  and  climbing  the 
sides  of  the  hill  until  many  of  its  houses  nestle  under  the  very  edge  of  the  rock 
on  which  we  stand.  Northeast  of  us  lie  the  pretty  villages  of  Wyoma  and 
Glenmere,  and  the  once  beautiful  lake,  bearing  the  musical  name  of  the  Indian 
maiden,  Wenuchus.  In  its  waters  our  foremothers  rotted  their  flax,  whence 
came  its  more  practical  and  homely  name.  Now  the  useful  but  prosaic  ice- 
house sadly  mars  the  symmetry  of  its  shores.  Further  to  the  east  Gold-fish 


Pond  lies  like  a gem  in  the  sunlight,  while  crowning  the  eminence  which 
overlooks  the  bay  are  hundreds  of  beautiful  residences,  half  hid  among  the 
leafy  branches  of  the  elms  and  maples.  Directly  to  the  southwest,  between 
us  and  the  harbor,  is  the  manufacturing  district.  At  this  distance  we  hear 
little  of  the  noise  of  the  city,  but  we  can  see  the  busy  life  as  it  pours  up  and 
down  the  streets.  The  buildings  have  a substantial  and  prosperous  appear- 
ance, and  are  admirably  adapted  to  the  great  industry  of  the  city.  What  a 
contrast  between  these  solid  structures  of  brick  and  the  low  wooden  shops  in 
which  the  shoe  business  of  Lynn  was  transacted  before  the  trade  of  shoemaking 


1G 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


had  been  evolved  into  a science  ! As  we  turn  toward  the  west,  we  see  that  the 
circus-field  of  our  boyhood  has  become  thickly  populous;  and  over  the  thick- 
leaved trees  of  the  Common,  which,  from  this  standpoint,  hide  the  shape  thereof 
— so  appropriate  to  the  City  of  Shoes  — we  can  see  the  white-walled  homes  of 
West  Lynn  stretching  far  out  toward  the  Saugus  River  ; and  beyond,  as  the  sun 
is  setting,  we  catch  a glimpse  of  the  shadowy  hills  and  salty  flats  of  the  towns 
beyond.  In  our  sweep  we  have  counted  the  spires  of  the  churches  and  the 
towers  of  the  school-houses,  admired  the  proportions  of  the  City  Hall,  and 
marked  where  the  two  roads  stretch  their  converging  lines  of  rails  toward 
Boston.  We  can  dimly  see  the  gray  stones  in  the  old  Burying  Ground,  where 
sleep  the  worthies  of  the  colonial  days,  and  to  the  north,  gleaming  fair,  the 
white  monuments  of  the  more  modern  but  equally  silent  city  of  the  dead. 

There  is  little  in  this  busy  modern  city  to  remind  us  that  it  has  a history, 
and  that  the  white  man  first  trod  the  spot  where  we  stand,  more  than  two 
centuries  and  a half  ago.  The  city  of  the  fathers  is  no  more — gone  out  as  com- 
pletely and  permanently  as  the  ways  and  methods,  of  the  cordwainers  who  first 
plied  their  trade  in  her  little  shops.  The  makers  of  the  labor-saving  machines 
made  over  the  somewhat  scattered  and  straggling  town  of  Lynn  into  a thriving 
and  prosperous  city,  which  refuses  to  believe  the  census-taker  who  says  we  have 
not  yet  fifty  thousand  inhabitants. 


FOOT  OF  N AH ANT  STREET. 


WHAT  time  the  first  white  man  set  his  foot  upon  the  soil  of  Lynn,  or  who 
^ he  was,  history  revealeth  not.  Legends  of  a visit  by  Thorwald,  with  a 
company  of  sturdy  Norsemen,  to  Nahant  in  the  eleventh  century,  as  well 
as  tales  of  explorations  in  these  waters  by  the  early  English  adventurers, 
Gosnold  and  Pring,  are  preserved  ; but 
their  foundation  is  obscure,  if  not  doubt- 
ful. It  is  reasonably  certain,  however, 
that  in  1614  Capt.  John  Smith,  having 
established  his  Virginia  colony,  sailed 
northward  on  a voyage  of  exploration  ; 
and  in  his  excellent  description  of  the 
coast,  he  mentions  the  Mattahunts  as 
two  islands  of  great  beauty,  and  gives 
such  a minute  description  of  the  bay 
and  surroundings  as  to  leave  little 
doubt  that  he  explored  the  beauti- 
ful peninsula,  but  had  mistaken  the 
pronunciation  of  the  Indian  name,  Xa- 
hanteau.  In  1622  the  whole  territory 
known  as  the  Massachusetts,  extending 
ten  miles  northeast  from  the  Charles 
River,  including  Saugus  and  the  Na- 
hants,  was  granted  to  Capt.  Robert 
Gorges ; but  he  failed  to  perfect  his 
title  to  his  princely  domain,  and  left 
his  heirs  only  a series  of  vexatious  law- 
suits, which  were  decided  against  them . 

The  settlement  of  Salem  was  begun  in 
1625  bv  the  famous  Roger  Conant, 
who  came  thither  with  the  remnant  of 
the  Cape  Ann  colony.  On  the  19th 

of  Maich,  162S,  the  Council  in  Eng-  cliff  Rocfc,  near  peabody  line. 
land  sold  all  that  part  of  Massachusetts 

between  three  miles  north  of  the  Charles  River  and  three  miles  south  of  the  Mer- 


18 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


rimack  to  a company  of  six  gentlemen,  among  whom  was  Mr.  John  Humphrey, 
who  afterward  became  an  honored  citizen  of  Lynn.  Until  that  time  the  Indians 
had  held  undisputed  possession  of  the  country.  Essex  County  was  included  in 

the  domain  of  Nan- 
apashemet,  the 
mighty  chief  of  the 
Paw  tuckets,  who 
sometimes  made  his 
home  near  the  falls 
of  the  Merrimack, 
and  occasionally  on 
Sagamore  Hill,  at 
the  eastern  end  of 
our  city.  But  in  a 
longand bloody  war 
with  theTarratines, 
those  terrible  fight- 
ers  of  eastern  New 
England,  Nana- 
pashemet,  the  New 
Moon,  had  gone 
down  in  a crimson 
sky  ; and  a terrible 
scourge,  occurring 
shortly  after,  had  so 
reduced  the  num- 
bers of  the 
Indians  that 
when  the  first 
N settlers  came, 
there  were  only 
scatteringvillages 
here  and  there, 
presided  over  by  local  sa- 
chems, and  the  old  warlike 
spirit  of  the  noble  red  men 
had  given  place  to  a more  peaceful  disposi- 
tion, and  a readiness  to  receive  whatever  in 
the  way  of  benefits  the  hand  of  the  white 
men  might  bring.  They  were  entirely  will- 
ing  to  sell  whatever  land  the  settlers  desired,  and  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  sell  the  same  parcel  as  many  times  over  as  they  could 
find  a purchaser  — a practice  prolific  of  trouble  for  the  settlers 
and  business  for  the  courts.  The  Indians  are  represented  to  have  been  tall  and 
well-formed,  and  one  impressionable  writer  speaks  of  “the  unparalleled  beauty” 
of  the  Indian  maidens,  describing  them  as  having  “very  good  features,  seldom 


/V* 


f'dltcs 


SAUGUS. 


19 


without  a come-to-me  in  their  countenance,  all  of  them  black-eyed,  having  even, 
short  teeth,  and  very  white,  their  hair  black,  thick  and  long,  broad-breasted, 
handsome,  straight  bodies,  and  slender,  thin  limbs,  cleanly,  straight,  generally 
plump  as  a partridge,  and,  saving  now  and  then  one,  of  modest  deportment ; ” 
and  another  says  : “ The  Indesses  that  are  young  are  some  of  them  very  comely. 
Many  prettie  Brownettos  and  spider-fingered  lassies  may  be  seen  among  them.” 
No  doubt  the  national  costume  of  the  Indians  afforded  abundant  facilities  for 
accurate  personal  description. 


Lewis,  writing  in  1844,  gravely  informs  us  that  Lynn  “ is  much  smaller 
than  it  was  before  the  towns  of  Saugus,  Lynnfield,  Reading  and  South  Reading 
were  separated  from  it.”  Since  that  time  the  towns  of  Swampscott  and  Nahant 
have  taken  up  separate  existence.  All  the  territory  comprising  these  towns  was 
called  by  the  Indians,  Saugus.  Salem  was  known  as  Naumkeag,  Marblehead 
as  Massabequash,  and  the  territory  lying  southwest  of  Saugus  had  the  musical 
appellation  of  Winnisimet,  but  it  was  included  in  the  territory  of  Mystic,  which 
afterward  became  Boston.  The  marsh  now  lying  partly  in  Chelsea  and  partly 
in  Saugus  was  called  Rumney  marsh.  When  the  white  men  came,  Winne- 
poyekin  — the  Winnepurkit  of  Whittier’s  Bride  of  Pennacook  — eldest  son  of 
Nanapashemet, 

“ He  whose  name  the  Mohawk  trembling  heard,” 

ruled  the  territory  of  Naumkeag,  Montowampate  was  sachem  of  Saugus,  and 
Poquanam  of  Nahant  — all  of  them  sons  of  Nanapashemet.  The  whites  gave 
these  three  sagamores  the  less  melodious  but  more  pronounceable  names  of 
Sagamore  James,  Sagamore  George  No-nose  and  Duke  William.  It  is  evident 
that  the  “ power  and  regal  consequence”  attributed  to  the  Saugus  chieftains  had 
failed  to  impress  the  settlers  as  anything  overwhelming.  Most  of  the  Indians 
hereabouts  lived  on  Sagamore  Hill,  near  the  end  of  Long  Beach,  at  Swamp- 


20 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS 


scott,  and  at  Nahant.  Saugus  signifies  great  or  extended,  and  was  used  by  the 
Indians  to  designate  the  long  beach  which  stretched  out  in  front  of  their  official 
residence.  The  river  which  now'  goes  by  that  name  was  called  by  the  Indians, 
Abousett.  Nahant  is  a shortening  of  the  Indian  term  Nahanteau,  signifying  the 
twins,  and  for  many  years  the  settlers  adopted  the  Indian  formula,  and  spoke 
of  the  two  islands  as  the  Nahants.  When,  therefore,  in  1629  — probably  in 
the  leafy  month  of  June  — Edmund  and  Francis  Ingalls,  not  liking  the  atmos- 
phere of  the  Endicott  settlement  at  Salem,  set  out  to  find  a place  to  u set 
themselves  downe,”  under  the  roving  permission,  given  by  the  bluff  and  some- 
times peppery  Governor,  to  go  where  it  pleased  them,  came  hitherward  search- 
ing for  a suitable  location  where  they  might  carve  themselves  out  a home,  they 
found  a broken  country,  thickly  covered  with  the  primeval  forest,  save  where, 
here  and  there,  the  Indians  had  cleared  small  patches,  W'here  they  planted  their 
pumpkins,  beans  and  corn.  Without  doubt  they  climbed  High  Rock  to  get  the 
lay  of  the  land,  and  as  their  eyes  drank  in  the  beautiful  prospect,  perhaps  thev 
felt  in  their  hearts,  as  Thorwald  is  said  to  have  done  when  he  landed  on  Nahant : 
“ Here  it  is  beautiful,  and  here  I would  like  to  fix  my  dwelling. ” Edmund 
chose  “a  fayre  plaine”  beside  a sedgy  lakelet,  on  what  is  now  called  Fayette 
street,  and  Francis  selected  a spot  nearer  the  beach  in  Swampscott,  where  he 
built  the  first  tannery  in  New  England.  Newhall,  in  his  Jewels  of  the  Third 
Plantation,  gives  a charming  picture  of  the  building  of  the  first  log  cabin. 
There  accompanied  Edmund  Ingalls  from  Salem,  when  he  was  ready  to  com- 
mence his  habitation,  a goodly  company,  who  lent  willing  hands  to  the  work. 

The  corner  stone,  or,  more  properly,  the 
corner  log,  wras  laid  with  earnest  exhorta- 
tion and  lengthy  prayer,  and  tradition  has 
it  that  one  Zachariah  Hart  worked  harder, 
prayed  longer  and  swrore  louder  than  any 
other  man  in  the  company.  Three  other 
families  came  to  Lynn  that  year — William 
Dixey,  who  remained  here  some  years, 
but  finally  removed  to  Salem  ; William 
Wood,  who  subsequently  left  to  begin 
with  others  the  settlement  of  Sandwich  ; 
and  John  Wood,  who  lived  on  the  corner 
of  Essex  and  Chestnut  streets,  and  from  him  that  locality  has  ever  since  been 
called  Woodend.  The  Indians  received  the  settlers  kindly,  and  rendered  them 
assistance  in  many  ways,  and,  in  return,  received  many  benefits  from  the  hands 
of  the  colonists.  The  following  year  saw  nearly  fifty  families  added  to  the 
number  of  settlers,  who  took  up  land  in  various  portions  of  the  plantation,  and 
this  year  was  born  Thomas  Newhall,  the  first  white  child  who  saw  the  light  in 
Lynn.  These  settlers  were  principally  farmers,  who  brought  with  them  from 
England  many  of  the  necessaries  and  comforts  of  life,  and  possessed  a large 
stock  of  cattle.  The  sheep,  goats  and  swine  were  for  many  years  pastured  on 
Nahant,  the  danger  from  catamounts,  bears  and  wolves  being  so  great  that  the 
constant  services  of  a shepherd  were  required  for  their  protection.  The  Saugus 
freemen  took  their  seats  in  the  General  Court  in  1630,  an  act  which  constituted 


EARLY  HOMES  IX  SAUGUS. 


SAUGUS. 


21 


a\\  the  incorporation  the  town  ever  had.  The  legislators  had  mostly  come  from 
the  walks  of  private  life,  and  were  unskilled  in  the  mysteries  of  statecraft. 
Besides,  the  General  Court  had  its  calendar  full  of  business,  being  called  upon 
to  regulate  many  of  the  most  trifling  details  of  everyday  life,  to  say  nothing  of 
■exercising  a general  oversight  of  the  religious  opinions  of  the  settlers.  As  a 
consequence,  many  things  which  were  well  enough  were  suffered  to  stand,  by 
common  consent.  But  the  progress  of  the  settlers  was  measurably  rapid. 
Their  habitations,  which  at  the  first  were  roughly  built  of  logs  and  thatched 
with  straw  or  sedge,  were  improved  ; farming  tools  became  more  abundant,  and 
preparation  was  made  for  the  common  defense  by  the  organization  of  a military 
company,  which  had  two  “great  sakers,,,  or  iron  cannon.  The  surrounding 
Indians,  seeing  the  growing  power  of  the  settlers,  had  begun  to  be  uneasy  and 
less  friendly  ; although  the  local  sachems  continued  to  regard  the  settlers  kindly, 
the  sad  experiences  of  the  other  colonies  warned  the  dwellers  in  Saugus  to 
be  on  their  guard.  No  outbreak  ever  occurred  in  this  vicinity,  but  twenty-six 
men  from  Saugus  took  part  in  the  King  Philip  war  and  participated  in  the 
swamp  fight,  which  proved  the  death-blow  to  the  power  of  the  mighty  Sassacus. 

During  the  first  few  years  the  religious  privileges  of  the  set- 
tlers were  limited,  the  nearest  minister  being  at  Salem,  and  to 
attend  service  there  the  settlers  had  to  traverse  a road  well-niofh 
impassable  from  stumps  and  rocks.  In  1634  the  Rev.  Stephen 
Bachiler  came  to  Saugus,  and  the  First  Church  was  organized. 

The  first  meeting-house  was  situated  on  the  corner  of 
Shepard  and  Summer  streets.  It  was  a log  building? 
set  in  a hollow  for  protection  from  the. winds,  and  like 


LAKE  WENUCHUS,  OR  FLAX  POXD. 
many  of  the  early  dwelling-houses,  the  floor  was  sunk 
several  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  outside,  and 
entrance  was  had  only  by  a descent  of  several  steps.  Trouble  soon  arose 
between  Mr.  Bachiler  and  his  flock,  and  in  1636  he  was  succeeded  by  Rev. 
Samuel  Whiting,  a most  godly  man.  Under  his  fostering  care  the  church 
Became  united  and  prosperous,  and  the  foundation  was  laid  so  deep  and  strong 
that  the  church  continues  to  this  day  with  no  substantial  change  in  form  or 
doctrine,  the  oldest  orthodox  Congregational  Church  in  the  world.  The  form 
and  appearance  of  the  town  has  undergone  several  transformations  ; new  sects 


22 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


and  new  doctrines  have  arisen,  few  of  which  remain  ; but  amid  all  the  clash  and 
tumult  of  sect  and  faction,  and  the  changes  in  the  customs  and  manners  of  the 
people,  the  old  First  Church  has  stood,  a monument  to  that  sturdy  Puritan  faith 
which  would  sooner  face  the  terrors  and  hardships  of  a home  in  the  wilderness 
than  oppression  and  interference  in  matters  of  conscience,  and  which  has  been 
transmitted  from  father  to  son  for  ten  generations. 

With  1637  ends  what  maybe  termed  the  first  period  of  our  history.  In  the 
eight  years  of  its  existence  the  colony  has  so  rapidly  increased  in  numbers  that 
an  assistant  to  the  minister  had  been  installed,  farms  cleared  and  stocked,  mills 
built,  and  a ferry  established  over  the  Saugus  River ; altogether  the  colony  was 
contented  and  prosperous. 


A Glimpse  of  the  marshes. 


66 


auaust  is  galls 


SUCH  is  the  quaint  and  entire  official  record  of  the  legislation  by  which  our 
city  came  to  be  called  by  its  new  name,  the  action  of  the  Oeneral  Court 
| necessary  thereto  taking  place  on  the  15th  of  November,  1637.  The  name 
1 was  given  in  compliment  to  Rev.  Samuel  Whiting,  who  had  come  hither 
from  King’s  Lynn,  in  England.  The  name  in  its  original  form,  ten,  signify- 
ing “ spreading  waters,”  was  thought  to  be  specially  applicable  to  this  spot, 
with  its  beautiful  bays  and  its  nine  forest-girt  lakelets  scatteied  heie  and  there. 


PHAETON  ROCK,  NEAR 
LYNNFIELD  ROAD. 


The  name  was  written  by  the  settlers  “ some- 
what according  to  the  taste  and  fancy  of  the  speller”  — 

Lin,  Linn,  Lvn,  Lynn  and  Lynne.  The  liberties  taken 
with  the  orthography  of  the  word  were  no  greater  than  was  done  with  most 
other  words  of  the  language,  for  it  seems  as  though  some  of  the  early  writers 
tried  to  make  their  manuscripts  as  grotesque  as  possible.  Some  time  was 
required  to  familiarize  the  people  with  the  new  name.  For  several  years 
Saugus  ai)d  Lynn  were  interchangeable  terms,  and  sometimes  the  name  of  the 
place  was  written  ki  Lynn  at  Saugus.”  Notwithstanding  the  change  of  name, 
the  affairs  of  the  colony  ran  on  in  their  usual  and  uneventful  course.  Population 
gradually  increased,  better  roads  were  constructed,  bridges  built,  and  schools 
opened,  where  the  boys  became  acquainted  with  the  rule  of  three  and  the 


24 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


schoolmaster's  ferule,  the  heroic  method  of  instruction  being  then  the  popular 
idea.  Very  little  attention  was  given  to  the  education  of  females,  it  being 
deemed  of  more  importance  that  they  should  be  skilled  in  domestic  arts. 

The  Iron  Works  were  established  in  Saugus  in  1643,  and 
for  several  years  continued  to  be  the  only, 
as  they  were  the  first,  manufacture  of  the 
kind  in  the  colonies.  They 
continued  an  eventful  but 
unprofitable  existence  for 
many  years,  the  chief  ob- 
stacle to  their  success  being 
the  scarcity  of  money  among 
their  customers.  The  ore 
used  was  bog  iron,  which 
was  quite  abundant,  and  the  fur- 
naces turned  out  a good  grade  of  charcoal  iron. 
Three  years  later  Lynn  was  made  a market  town, 
and  Tuesdays  were  given  to  a general  interchange  of  commodities  among  the 
inhabitants,  and  the  Market  Street  occasionally  took  on  an  animated  appear- 
ance, scarcely  rivalling,  however,  the  bustle  and  brilliancy  of  a modern  Saturday 
evening.  Until  the  years  closely  following  1650,  the  settlers  had  their  religious 
affairs  very  much  their  own  way,  and  doubtless  thought  they  had  secured  the 
poet’s  ideal  — 


ABIJAH  BOARDMAN  HOMESTEAD  IN 
SAUGUS. 


“ Freedom  to  worship  God.” 


The  teachings  of  George  Fox,  and  the  bitter  persecution  accorded  him  in  Eng- 
land, had  not  been  unnoted  in  the  New  World,  and 
the  people  had  begun  to  take  sides  in  the  controversy . 
when  the  first  Quakers  landed  in  Boston  in  1656.^ 

The  colonial  authorities  were  quick  to  imitate  their 
English  cousins  in  their  methods  of  dealing  with  the  f 


1 


^ | unwelcome  visitors.  The  freedom  of  worship 

which  they  had  found,  they  were  wholly  unwilling 

to  accord  to  the  visiting  Quakers,  and  they  were 

promptly  imprisoned  and  sent  back  to  England  on 
iiiiiliiljlj*  1 J 1 43 

the  first  departing  vessel.  The  record  of  the  next 

few  years  forms  a terrible  chapter  in  our  history. 

The  whipping-post  and  the  gallows  had  their  fre- 

floating  bridge.  quent  Quaker  victims,  and  it  was  not  till  twenty 


“SAUGUST  IS  CALLED  LIN.' 


25 


years  after  that  the  authorities  discovered  that  these  were  the  least  effective 
means  ever  devised  for  checking  the  growth  of  a religious  idea.  The  Quakers 
continued  to  multiply  until  there  were  over  one  hundred  families  in  Lynn,  and 
it  was  not  until  opposition  was  withdrawn  and  they  were  left  to  themselves  that 
they  were  found  to  be  a simple  and  harmless  body,  with  many  of  the  ordinary 
frailties  common  to  our  human  nature. 


house,  which  for  half  a century  served  the  spiritual  needs  of  the  colony,  was 
removed,  in  1682,  from  Shepard  street  to  the  center  of  the  Common,  and  con- 
verted into  a more  pretentious  edifice,  which,  from  its  peculiar  shape,  has  gone 
into  history  by  the  name  of  the  Old  Tunnel.  The  Rev.  Samuel  Whiting,  for 
forty  years  the  faithful  pastor  and  earnest  preacher,  passed  to  his  rest  in  1679, 
and  shortly  after,  the  Rev.  Jeremiah  Shepherd  came  to  fill  his  post.  Mr.  Shep- 
herd had  few  of  the  characteristics  of  his  predecessor.  He  was  a positive  spirit- 
ual force,  and  stirred  up  the  church  to  greater  outward  effort  and  efficacy  than  it 
had  before  shown.  But  he  was  also  of  a fiery  and  somewhat  irascible  disposi- 
tion, and  mixed  as  freely  in  the  worldly  as  the  spiritual  contentions  of  his  time. 
He  was  a man  of  strong  mental  power  — a discourse  three  hours  long  was  not 
an  uncommon  feat  for  him  ; but  whether  this  habit  was  in  any  way  the  occasion 
of  the  enactment  by  the  General  Court  of  a law  compelling  everyone  to  attend 
meeting,  is  not  stated.  But  a similar  habit  on  the  part  of  his  predecessor  was 
the  occasion  of  this  quaint  paragraph  in  the  Journal  of  Obadiah  Turner,  one  of 
the  early  lights  of  Lynn  : 

“ Allen  Bridges  hath  bin  chose  to  wake  ye  sleepers  in  meeting,  and  being  much  proud  of  his 
place,  must  needs  have  a fox  taile  fixed  to  ye  end  of  a long  staff,  wherewith  he  may  brush  ye  faces 
of  them  yt  will  have  napps  in  time  of  discourse;  likewise  a sharpe  thorne,  wherewith  he  may  prick 
such  as  be  most  sounde.  On  ye  laste  Lord  his  day,  as  hee  strutted  about  ye  meeting-house,  hee  did 
spy  Mr.  Tomlins  sleeping  with  much  comforte,  hys  head  kept  steadie  by  being  in  ye  corner,  and  hys 
hand  grasping  ye  rail.  And  so  spying,  Allen  did  quicklie  thrust  his  staff  behind  Dame  Ballard,  and 
give  hjm  a grievous  prick  upon  ye  hand.  Whereupon  Mr.  Tomlins  did  spring  vpp  mch  above  ye 
floore,  and  with  terrible  force  strike  with  hys  hand  against  ye  wall,  and  also,  to  ye  great  wonder  of 


Scarcely  had  the  excitement  over  Quakerism  begun 
to  decline  when  the  bugaboo  of  witchcraft  arose  to  vex 
the  righteous  souls  of  the  settlers.  Salem  village,  now 


The  old  log  meeting- 

o o 


26 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


all,  prophainlie  exclaime  in  a loude  voice : ‘Cuss  ye  woodchuck ; ’ he  dreaming,  as  it  seemed,  yt  a 
woodchuck  had  seized  and  bit  his  hand.  But  on  comeing  to  know  where  he  was  and  ye  great 
scandall  he  had  committed,  he  seemed  much  abashed,  but  did  not  speake.  And  I think  he  will  not 
soone  againe  go  to  sleepe  in  meeting.  Ye  women  may  sometimes  sleepe,  and  none  know  it  by 
reason  of  their  enormous  bonnets.  Mr.  Whiting  doth  pleasantlie  say  yt  from  ye  pulpit,  he  doth 
seeme  to  be  preaching  to  stacks  of  straw,  with  men  sitting  here  and  there  among  them.” 

In  1683,  following  the  example  of  their  neighbors  round  about,  the  people 
of  Lynn  succeeded  in  perfecting  their  title  to  their  lands,  by  deed  from  the  heirs 
of  the  original  Indian  proprietors.  This  deed  is  recorded  at  Salem.  It  is  a 
long  and  curious  document,  abounding  in  surplusage  and  legal  redundancies, 
on  account  of  which,  possibly  because  few  people  could  unravel  their  meaning, 
such  documents  were  thought  to  be  all  the  more  binding.  This  deed  conveyed 
all  the  interest  which  David  Kunkshamooshaw  and  Abigail,  his  wife,  Cicely, 
better  known  as  Su  George,  and  James  Quonopohit — the  sole  surviving  heirs  of 
Nanapashemet — held  in  the  territory  of  Lynn  and  Nahant.  The  signatures  of 
David  and  Abigail  seem  to  be  rude  representations  of  a bow  and  arrow.  The 


third  signature  is  that  of  Cicely.  James  signed  his  name  in  full,  after  the  manner 
of  white  men.  The  last  is  the  sign  manual  of  Mary  Ponham,  his  wife.  The 
settlers  attached  much  importance  to  the  Indian  deeds,  but  Sir  Edmund  Andros, 
the  English  governor,  professed  the  greatest  contempt  for  them,  likening  them 
to  scratches  of  a bear’s  claw,  and  by  an  arbitrary  exercise  of  his  power,  endeav* 
ored  to  set  aside  the  deed  of  Nahant  in  favor  of  his  secretary,  Edward  Randolph, 
who  had  coveted  the  peninsula.  The  spirit  with  which  his  purpose  was  resisted 
by  the  settlers  taught  him  the  useful  lesson  that  in  this  country  the  government 
is  no  stronger  than  the  popular  will,  and  that  the  ruler  who  undertakes  to  breast 
public  opinion,  right  or  wrong,  has  a wearisome,  and  possibly  a dangerous, 
course  to  follow.  Randolph  persisted  in  his  claim,  and  finally,  finding  himself 
vigorously  opposed  by  Oliver  Purchis,  lost  his  temper,  and  attempted  to  cut  off 
the  ears  of  his  opponent.  This  was  more  than  the  settlers  could  endure,  and 
headed  by  Parson  Shepherd,  they  hunted  Randolph  to  Boston,  and  made  it 
desirable  for  that  individual  to  look  elsewhere  for  a summer  residence.  From 
that  day  to  this  Nahant  has  continued  to  be  the  queen  of  seaside  resorts,  but  the 
later  invasions  from  Boston  have  been  of  a more  peaceful  and  desirable  char- 
acter. So  the  century  passed  away,  and  gradually  the  turmoils  of  its  later  vears 
subsided,  and  the  lives  of  the  people  moved  on  in  straighter  lines.  In  1712 
Lynnfield  was  set  off  as  a separate  town,  and  two  years  later  a meeting-house 
was  built.  In  all  the  early  New  England  settlements  the  meeting-house  was  the 
center  of  influence  and  power.  The  building  of  a meeting-house  and  the  settle- 
ment of  a minister  was  insisted  upon  as  a necessary  preliminary  to  the  recogni- 
tion of  a new  municipality.  If  law  and  public  policy  could  have  made  a people 
as  a whole  religious  and  God-fearing,  our  ancestors  would  have  been  entitled  to 
canonization.  Possibly  some  of  them  are,  for  what  they  did  accomplish. 


“SAUGUST  IS  CALLED  LIN.1 


27 


Farming  continued  to  be  the  chief  occupation  of  the  settlers.  There  were 
a few  tanneries,  and  in  1760  the  manufacture  of  shoes  had  begun  to  receive 
considerable  attention.  Some  skilled  workmen  in  the  line  of  ladies’  shoes  had 
come  to  the  town  from  England,  and  they  had  imparted  their  skill  to  the  home 
workmen,  so  that  in  1764  The  Boston  Gazette  records  the  fact  that  “the 
women’s  shoes  made  at  Lynn  do  now  exceed  those  usually  imported,  both  in 
strength  and  beauty,  but  not  in  price”  — a standard  always  since  lived  up  to  — 
and  in  1768  it  is  stated  that  80,000  pairs  of  shoes  were  made  in  Lynn  the 
previous  year.  The  foundation  of  our  subsequent  prosperity  was  then  laid. 
Good  work  at  a fair  price  was  the  motto,  and  in  all  the  achievements  of  the  later 
years  this  has  been  the  governing  principle. 

The  occurrences  which  led  up  to  the  War  of  the  Revolution  were  full  of 
interest  and  excitement  for  the  citizens  of  Lynn.  No  less  than  the  Bostonians 
did  they  resent  the  oppressions  and  exactions  of  the  English  Government. 
Some  of  her  citizens  participated  in  the  Boston  tea-party,  and  all  joined  with 
spirit  and  faithfulness  in  the  crusade  which  was  declared  against  all  taxed  tea. 

At  a meeting  on  the  16th  of  December,  1773?  it  was, 
among  other  things,  resolved,  “That  we  highly  disapprove  of 
the  landing  and  selling  of  such  teas  in  America,  and  will  not 

suffer  any  teas,  subjected  to 
a parliamentary  duty,  to  be 
landed  or  sold  in  this  town  ; 
and  that  we  stand  ready  to 
assist  our  brethren  in  Bos- 
ton or  elsewhere,  whenever 
our  aid  shall  be  required, 
in  repelling  all  attempts  to 
land  or  sell  any  teas  pois- 
oned with  a parliamentary 
SKETCH  ON  WALNUT  STREET.  dlltv  ” 

There  is  little  occasion  to  question  the  meaning  of  this  declaration,  and  the 
people  were  as  good  as  their  word.  It  became  known  that  Mr.  James  Bowler, 
on  Water  Hill,  had  a quantity  of  tea  in  store.  A committee  of  ladies  immedi- 
ately waited  upon  him,  demanded  the  tea,  and  destroyed  it.  The  independent 
spirit  of  the  mothers  has  been  transmitted  to  their  descendants,  and  the  actors 
in  this  first  American  boycott  planted  seeds  which  still  flourish  in  our  soil. 
Holmes  asserts  that 

“The  waters  of  the  rebel  bay 
Have  kept  their  tea-leaf  savor; 

Our  old  North  Enders  in  their  spray 
Still  taste  a Hyson  flavor.” 


And  the  same  spirit  which  led  our  ancestors  to  unite  to  resist  an  arbitrary  and 
unjust  tax  still  bands  our  people  together  to  combat  any  real  or  fancied  attempt 
at  oppression. 

The  following  year  the  port  of  Boston  was  closed,  by  order  of  the  English 
Government.  Then  the  storm  clouds  rapidly  gathered.  The  people  of  Lynn 
made  common  cause  with  those  of  the  surrounding  towns.  Couriers  constantly 


28 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


passed  back  and  forth  between  Concord,  Salem  and  Boston,  and  a company  of 
Lynn  minute  men  assisted  at  the  reception  given  the  English  regulars  at  Lexing- 
ton— four  of  whom  were  killed  in  the  fight,  and  several  more  were  wounded. 
Among  the  latter  was  Timothy  Munroe,  who  had  one  ball  through  his  leg,  and 
thirty-two  bullet-holes  through  his  clothes  and  hat.  Active  measures  were  taken 
for  carrying  on  the  war,  which  all  now  perceived  was  inevitable.  A Commit- 
tee of  Safety,  consisting  of  Rev.  John  Treadwell,  pastor  of  the  First  Church, 
and  Rev.  Joseph  Roby,  of  the  Lynnfield  parish,  and  Deacon  Daniel  Mansfield, 
was  appointed.  Guards  were  stationed  on  Sagamore  Hill,  Shepard  street,  and 
the  crossing  at  the  Saugus  River,  and  no  one  was  suffered  to  pass  out  of  town 
without  permission.  Arms  were  carried  to  meeting  on  the  Sabbath,  and  it  is 
recorded  that  the  minister  appeared  with  his  powder-horn  under  one  arm  and 
his  sermon  under  the  other,  and  stood  his  musket  at  one  side  of  the  pulpit  when 
he  rose  to  begin  the  service.  A company  of  minute  men  was  formed,  which 
took  part  in  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  In  the  long  and  terrible  war  which  fol- 
lowed, Lynn  furnished  her  quota  of  men  and  means,  and  bore  with  patriotic 
fortitude  the  privations,  hardships  and  disappointments  of  that  trying  time. 
One  hundred  and  sixty-eight  of  her  citizens  were  in  the  Continental  Army,  of 
whom  fifty-two  men  were  lost,  besides  the  four  men  killed  at  Lexington. 

The  years  succeeding  the  war  were  devoted  to  retrieving  the  losses  and. 
repairing  the  waste  of  that  long  struggle.  With  the  exception  of  the  ripple 
caused  by  Shay’s  Rebellion  in  1 7^7,  there  were  no  clouds  in  the  political  hori- 
zon until  1 80S,  when  the  Embargo  brought  all  sorts  of  commercial  activity  to  a 
standstill,  and  reduced  all  manufacturing  interests  to  a low  ebb.  A majority  of 
the  people  were  Democrats,  and  upheld  the  General  Government  in  its  policy, 
though  not  without  a vigorous  protest  from  their  Federalist  neighbors.  Again, 
in  1S12,  the  naval  war  with  England  seriously  checked  all  business  for  a time. 
As  was  their  wont,  the  citizens  of  Lynn  were  alive  to  the  contest.  A privateer 
was  fitted  out,  which  sent  home  three  prizes,  and  generally  the  feelings  of  the 
people  were  keyed  up  to  the  fighting  pitch.  The  frequent  successes  of  the 
Yankee  tars  and  their  impromptu  fleet  had  caused  the  people  to  regard  them  as 
well-nigh  invincible.  One  of  the  songs  of  the  day  ran : 

* “I  often  have  been  told 

That  the  British  seamen  bold 
Could  beat  the  tars  of  France  so  neat  and  handy  0. 

But  they  never  found  their  match 
Till  the  Yankees  did  them  catch, 

For  the  Yankee  tars  for  fighting  are  the  dandy  O. 

It  was,  therefore,  with  great  expectation  of  a glorious  victory  that  the  people 
lined  the  heights  of  Nahant  on  the  first  day  of  June,  1813,  to  witness  the  battle 
between  the  British  ship  Shannon  and  the  American  brig  Chesapeake.  They 
were  doomed  to  a bitter  disappointment,  for  after  a short  and  spirited  contest 
Capt.  Lawrence  of  the  Chesapeake  fell,  her  colors  were  lowered,  and  the  people 
sadly  watched  the  Shannon  depart  with  her  prize  for  Halifax. 

At  last  the  treaty  of  peace  brought  an  end  to  hostilities,  and  the  people 
once  again  turned  their  attention  to  their  ordinary  peaceful  pursuits.  Farming 
and  shoemaking  continued  the  chief  occupations  of  the  people.  Attempts  were 


“ SAUGUST  IS  CALLED  LIN.! 


29 


made,  from  time  to  time,  to  inaugurate  other  industries,  but  either  the  place  or 
the  people  were  not  suited  to  them.  Several  tanneries  were  in  operation  from 
1S20  to  1S30,  but  by  1S33  these  were  all  discontinued,  it  being  possible  to  pur- 
chase leather  in  Philadelphia  cheaper  than  it  could  be  manufactured  here.  In 
1S19  the  sea-serpent  made  a reconnaisance  of  our  shores,  much  to  the  consterna- 
tion of  the  people,  and  in  1824  a visit  from  General  Lafayette  was  the  occasion 
of  a great  demonstration.  Five  years  later  the  community  was  convulsed  bv  the 
anti-masonry  excitement,  and  for  several  years  the  opponents  of  that  ancient 
order  held  complete  control  of  municipal  affairs.  Scarcely  had  the  public  inter- 
est in  this  controversy  begun  to  die  away  when  abolition  became  a burning 
question.  In  the  early  days  many  slaves  had  been  owned  in  Lynn,  but  at  the 
opening  of  the  Revolution  all  that  werp  then  held  here  were  given  their  freedom. 
From  that  time  onward  there  had  been  a marked  and  oftentimes  outspoken 
opposition  to  the  institution  of  slavery  among  the  people,  and  in  1S32  the  Lynn 
Anti-Slavery  Society  was  formed.  This  organization  soon  became  noted  for  its 
advanced  opinions,  and  its  boldness  in  expressing  them.  Frequent  meetings 
and  discussions  were  held,  and  the  silvery  voice  of  Phillips  and  the  burning 
eloquence  of  Garrison  were  often  heard  here  in  behalf  of  the  southern  slave. 
Old  Town  Hall  was  frequently 
the  scene  of  exciting  occurrences, 
but  probably  no  more  spirited 
ever  met  within  its 
than  was  called  together 
on  the  5th  of  October,  1850,  the 
occasion  being  the  passage  by 
Congress  of  the  Fugitive  Slave 
Law.  The  measure  was  de- 
nounced in  the  most  unsparing 
manner,  and  those  who  had  taken, 
prominent  part  in  the  enactment 
of  the  law  were  called  by  name 
and  roundly  castigated.  The  resolutions  adopted  by  the  meeting  were  charac- 
teristic of  our  people,  and  breathed  the  uncompromising  hatred  of  oppression 
and  love  of  liberty  which,  seventy-five  years  before,  had  led  their  fathers  into 
rebellion.  Following  is  one  of  the  resolutions  adopted  at  the  meeting,  which 
shows  the  temper  of  the  people : 

Resolved,  That,  since  God  hath  commanded  us  to  “bewray  not  him  that  wandereth,”  and 
since,  our  fathers  being  witnesses,  every  man’s  right  to  liberty  is  self-evident,  we  see  no  way  of 
avoiding  the  conclusion  of  Senator  Seward,  that  “ it  is  in  violation  of  the  divine  law  to  surrender 
the  fugitive  slave  who  takes  refuge  at  our  firesides;”  and  in  view  of  this,  as  well  as  the  notorious 
fact  that  the  slave  power  has  constantly  trampled  under  foot  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States 
to  secure  its  own  extension  or  safety,  and  especially  of  the  open,  undisguised  and  acknowledged 
contempt  of  that  instrument  with  which  the  slave  states  kidnap  our  colored  citizens  travelling  south 
and  imprison  our  colored  seamen,  we,  in  obedience  to  God’s  law,  and  in  self-defense,  declare  that, 
Constitution  or  no  Constitution,  law  or  no  law,  with  jury  trial  or  without,  the  slave  who  has  once 
breathed  the  air  and  touched  the  soil  of  Massachusetts  shall  never  be  dragged  back  to  bondage. 

Other  large  meetings  were  held  in  various  parts  of  the  Commonwealth,  and 
such  a fire  of  indignation  was  kindled  that  a Legislature  was  chosen  which 


gathering 

o o 

walls 


OLD  TOWN  HALL. 


30 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


made  such  provisions  that  the  operation  of  the  law  was 
Massachusetts  nullification  became  the  theme  of  many 
It  was  on  Fayette  street  where  Edmund  In- 
galls built  his  humble  cottage,  in  the  shade  of 
some  of  the  old  giants  of  the  forest.  A small  u 
natural  clearing  formed  the  beginnings  of  his 
husbandry,  and  the  sweet  waters  of  Lake  Wenu- 
chus  supplied  both  his  family  and  his  flocks.  « 
This  cot  long  since  gave  way  to  a more  preten- 
tious edifice,  and  the  outlines  of  the  farm  have 
been  lost  in  the  network  of  streets  which  com- 
pose that  section  of  the  city.  It  is  two  centuries  * 
since  the  sturdy  Puritan  sought  repose  in  the 
bosom  of  his  foster-mother.  Lynn  would  doubt- 
less have  been  sought  out  and  settled,  had  not  01 
Edmund  Ingalls  first  selected  this  as  the  place  of  g 
his  abode  ; but  who  shall  say  how  much  of  our  ^ 
present  permanence  and  prosperity  we  owe  to  ^ 
the  steady  courage  and  fervent  piety  of  our  first  & 
citizen,  whose  blood  has  flowed  down  through  ^ 
successive  generations  in  an  ever-widening  stream  g a 
until,  in  our  own  day,  his  name  is  borne  by  half  0 
a hundred  of  our  citizens?  It  was  on  the  corner 
of  Essex  and  Chestnut  streets  that  John  Wood  > 
built  his  modest  dwelling.  His  house  was  long  £ 
since  demolished  and  his  farm  sub-divided,  but  h 
his  name  became  engrafted  upon  the  locality  2 00 
which  will  be  known  as  Woodend  as  long  as  3 
Lynn  continues  a city.  Joseph  Armitage,  who 
came  here  in  1630,  cleared  a farm  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Common,  his  land  extending  from 
Mall  street  to  Strawberry  Brook.  The  Common 
was  then  a forest  and  somewhat  swampy,  with  a * _ 
shallow  brook  crossing  it.  Mr.  Armitage  after- 
ward opened  the  Anchor  Tavern,  situated  in 
Saugus,  on  the  carriage  road  to  Boston.  For  £ 
one  hundred  and  seventy  years  this  was  the  most 
celebrated  hostelry  in  Essex  County,  and  it 
counted  among  its  guests  many  of  the  noted  men  ** 
of  the  time.  Another  of  the  early  settlers  whose 
name  has  become  inseparably  connected  with  the  w 
city  was  Allen  Breed,  or  Bread,  as  the  custom  of 
that  early  time  had  it.  His  farm  was  on  Sum- 
mer street,  near  the  Western  Avenue,  and  from 
him  that  section  was  early  known  as  Breed’s 
End.  Samuel  Graves,  whose  possessions  lay  west  of 
the  third  of  the  Lynn  immortals,  that  locality  being 


seriously  obstructed,  and 
1 fiery  Southern  orator. 


M to 


GO 

u 


’ 


■I 


1 


the  Floating  Bridge,  is 
yet  called  Gravesend, 


“SAUGUST  IS  CALLED  LIN.1 


31 


though  modern  usage  is  gradually  changing  this  to  the  more  musical  Glenmere. 
In  1S36  it  is  mentioned  that  there  were  only  seventeen  buildings  of  brick  in 

Lynn,  and  only  six  of  any  material  above  two 
The  dwellings  throughout  the 
:rage  value  of  $500.  These 


stories  in  height. 

O 

town  had  an  a> 


!i 


buildings  were  scattered  along  sixty  streets,  and 
not  near  enough  together  but  that  each  family 
had  plenty  of  breathing  space.  Market  street 
was  largely  given  up  to  dwellings,  though  here 
and  there  a shoe  shop  or  tannery  gave  variety  to 
the  scene.  The  cuts  on  this  and  the  preceding 
page  give  a faithful  picture  of  Market  street  as  it 
was  in  1820.  Referring  to  the  numbers,  1 is 
now  Sea  street,  2 Timothy  Alley,  3 Wm. 
Richards,  4 Viall’s  slaughter-house,  5 F.  S. 
§ & H.  Newhall’s  morocco  factory,  6 Winthrop 

*-•  Newhall’s  tannery,  7 water  trough,  8 Benj. 
£ Alley,  9 and  10  Solomon  Alley,  1 1 Richard 
H Pratt,  12  Pelatiah  Purington,  13  John  Alley, 
w Jr.,  14  now  Summer  street,  15  James  Alley, 
H 16  Simeon  Breed,  17  Dr.  Lummus,  18  Capt. 

Jos.  Mudge,  19  Jerusha  Williams,  20  and 
$ 21  Stephen  Smith’s  house  and  shoe  shop,  22 

5 Gamaliel  W.  Oliver’s  shoe  shop  and  house  — 
* in  this  shop  William  Lloyd  Garrison  worked 
C shoemaking  for  some  time — 23  J.  B.  Ingalls, 
w 24  Rev.  Enoch  Mudge,  25  Methodist  meeting- 
00  house,  “The  Bowery,”  now  Lee  Hall.  These 
H cuts  were  made  from  reliable  data,  and  are  said 
j*  by  those  who  survive  that  time  to  be  a correct 
K representation  of  things  as  they  were  then.  The 
g only  building  of  that  time  now  standing  is  close 
w by  the  railroad.  It  is  not  shown  in  the  cut, 
being  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street.  It  was 
then  used  as  a morocco  factory,  and  close  by  it 
was  a creek  through  which  the  tides  flowed  in 
and  out  of  what  is  now  Harrison  Court.  A 
stone  culvert  spanned  this  stream  just  below 
where  now  the  railroad  crossing  is. 

Up  to  this  time  the  town  had  probably  not 
changed  very  much  in  the  matter  of  its  streets 
for  a century  or  more.  In  the  center  of  the  town 
it  had  Market  street,  Liberty  street,  Spruce  street 

nil!  1111  ill  MU'  BHiiimiiimL  emsa  ' — now  a part  of  Washington  — Sea  street,  Front 

1 1 Ifil  street  — now  that  part  of  Broad  from  Exchange 

to  Market  — Union  street,  Pine  street  — now  Exchange  — Spring  street,  Broad 
street.  Further  east  were  Broad,  Nahant,  Lewis,  Chestnut,  Fayette,  Olive, 


.I11.1i 


32 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Mason,  Orange,  Essex,  Pearl  and  High  streets.  In  the  western  part  of  the 
town  were  Pleasant,  Shepard,  Summer,  Commercial,  Elm,  North  and  South 
Common,  Franklin  and  Franklin  avenue,  Turnpike  — now  Western  avenue  — 
Boston,  North  Shepard,  Mall,  Center  and  Federal  streets.  Nahant  street  led  to 
Nahant  over  the  beach  ; there  being  no  road,  the  tides  were  watched  to  know 
when  the  long  beach  could  be  used  for  travel.  Lewis  street  led  to  Swampscott 
and  into  Humphrey  street,  and  a cart  road  extended  on  through  the  farms  to 
Marblehead.  Essex  street  led  from  Woodend  to  Salem,  with  no  cross  streets. 
All  other  parts  of  Lynn  were  in  wood  or  pasture  lands,  or  farms,  and  there 
was  no  house  south  of  Nahant  and  Broad  streets,  nor  east  of  Nahant,  Broad 
and  Lewis  streets.  The  lands  between  Lewis,  Fayette  and  Essex  streets,  also 
between  Essex,  Orange,  Chestnut  and  the  Turnpike,  also  south  of  Summer  and 
Commercial  streets,  were  used  as  farms  or  pastures.  Around  the  southwest 


OLD  ANCHOR  TAVERN. 


corner  of  Union  and  Exchange  streets  ran  a stone  wall,  and  on  the  opposite 
corner  stood  the  Keene  homestead.  Through  a culvert  under  what  is  now 
Central  square  flowed  a stream  of  pure,  cool  water,  from  springs  under  the 
present  Central  Station.  It  formed  a muddy,  grassy  brook  which  ran  down 
Union  street  to  where  the  Ingalls  building  now  is,  then  turned  and  flowed 
through  the  gardens  of  Jonathan  Connor  and  William  D.  Thompson,  across 
Broad  street  to  the  sea.  In  the  brook  near  Earl’s  new  building  was  sunk  a tub, 
where  the  neighbors  watered  their  cows.  Nearly  all  the  principal  families 
owned  a cow,  and  if  they  had  no  pasture,  they  hired  or  owned  what  was  called 
a “ cow  lease,”  or  right  to  pasture  a cow  in  Rocks  Pasture  or  on  Nahant. 
Where  Goldthwait's  stable  now  is  was  a hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  was  a 


“SAUGUST  IS  CALLED  LIN.1 


33 


two-story  house,  the  cellar  of  which  must  have  been  much  above  the  roof  of  the 
present  stable.  Half-way  down  the  hill  was  an  old-fashioned  well,  with  curb, 
sweep  and  an  old  oaken  bucket.  The  stone  wall  extended  up  the  south  side  of 
Union  street  for  a short  distance  to  the  house  of  Farmer  Silsbee,  where  Welch 
& Cummings’  store  now  is.  The  one-story  house  of  George  Todd  stood  oppo- 
site Pearl  street.  From  this  point  the  stone  wall  extended  most  of  the  way  to 
Woodend.  A stone  wall  marked  the  site  of  the  Sagamore  House,  and  from 
Pearl  street  a wall  extended  nearly  to  the  burying-ground.  Where  the  East 
Baptist  Church  is,  and  beyond,  was  called  Smith’s  field,  and  where  Ireson  street 
is  was  called  Quaker  Pasture  — a decided  contrast  to  the  modern,  busy,  throng- 
ing Union  street.  There  were  no  Beach,  Baltimore,  Atlantic,  Ocean,  or 
other  cross  streets  in  that  section,  nor  any  Silsbee,  Green,  Ireson,  Rockaway, 
Washington,  Willow,  Munroe,  Oxford,  Andrew  or  Johnson  streets,  and  only 
five  or  six  cross  streets  from  the  Common.  There  were  formerly  salt  works 
near  the  foot  of  S.  N.  Breed’s  wharf,  with  a windmill  to  pump  the  water  into 
tanks  for  evaporation  ; and  where  the  engine-house  is  was  a small  beach  called 
“ Water  Side.”  Where  Central  avenue  and  Willow  street  are  was  a cow  pas- 
ture, and  Almont  street  was  given  over  to  brick-yards.  At  the  foot  of  Nahant 
street  was  a fence,  with  a gate,  to  keep  the  cows  from  returning  home  too  early. 

The  last  decade  of  this  period  of  our  history  is  full  of  events  of  great 
importance  as  bearing  on  the  future  of  the  town.  First,  in  1838,  came  the 
Eastern  Railroad,  pushing  its  way  north  and  east  — first  to  Salem,  and  then 
onward  toward  Portland.  The  projectors  of  the  railroad  were  men  of  courage 
and  foresight.  The  science  of  railroad  building  and  management,  as  it  is  now 
understood,  was  an  unknown  quantity,  and  the  tremendous  possibilities  of  the 
steam  locomotive  undreamed  of.  They  came  to  Lynn,  and  calling  the  promi- 
nent business  men  together,  asked  their  opinion  as  to  the  average  number  of 
passengers  they  might  expect  between  Lynn  and  Boston.  After  mature  delib- 
eration and  close  calculation,  the  conclusion  was  reached  that  the  average  might 
reach  thirty-eight  per  day,  though  one  gentleman  emphatically  dissented, 
saving  that  “ never  in  the  world  will  they  have  so  many!”  The  first  station 

was  a one-story  wooden  structure,  about 
forty  feet  long,  with  a bell  on  the  roof, 

I which  was  rung  on  the  arrival  of  each 
train.  The  first  cars  were  about  fifteen 
I feet  long,  and  seated  twenty-two  persons. 
The  first  locomotives  were  very  crude, 
and  had  scarcely  power  enough  to  draw 
the  few  coaches  in  the  train.  Frequently 
in  cold  weather,  or  when  facing  a high 
wind  across  the  marshes,  the  trains  would 
be  compelled  to  stop  to  get  a head  of 
first  railroad  station  in  lynn.  steam  sufficient  to  proceed.  That  was 

railroading  under  difficulties.  But  with  the  railroad  came  new  life  and  energy 
into  the  place,  which  made  itself  manifest  in  the  impetus  given  to  business  and 
the  various  new  enterprises  which  sprung  into  life.  The  financial  panic  of 
the  previous  year,  though  falling  heavily  upon  many  of  our  manufacturers, 


34 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


had  served  to  clear  the  business  atmosphere,  and  brought  many  young  men 
to  the  front.  The  era  of  invention,  which  has  astonished  the  world  by  its 
productions,  was  then  just  beginning,  and  the  shoemaking  industry  early  began 
to  receive  its  share  of  attention.  A few  minor  inventions  were  brought  out 
prior  to  1850,  but  they  were  mostly  crude  and  of  little  use;  but  they  began  to 
open  the  way  for  the  great  revolution  in  the  methods  of  shoe  manufacture  which 
began  ten  years  later.  They  consisted  chiefly  in  improvements  in  lasts,  and  in 
methods  of  cutting  the  soles.  The  styles  of  boots  most  commonly  made  had 
been  foxed  gaiters,  slippers  and  buskins,  but  in  1848  the  congress  boot  was 
invented,  which  at  once  came  into  great  favor.  The  city,  in  the  years  1840  to 
1850,  took  rapid  strides  both  in  population  and  business,  and  it  began  to  be  felt 
that  Lynn  had  outgrown  her  town  organization.  The  subject  of  obtaining  a 
city  charter  was  agitated  for  several  years.  Finally,  on  the  10th  of  April,  1850, 
the  Legislature  granted  a charter,  and  on  the  19th  it  was  accepted  by  the  town. 
With  this  action  may  be  said  to  end  the  second  period  of  our  history.  In  our 
brief  review  we  have  seen  a sparsely-settled  colony,  planted  in  a wilderness, 
grow  to  a busy  and  prosperous  town,  with  an  industry  of  sufficient  magnitude 
to  give  employment  to  thousands  of  busy  workers,  and  prosperous  in  a marked 
degree. 


REO  ROCK,  LYNN  BEACH. 


CpHE  legendary  history  of  Lynn  forms  one  of  its  most  fascinating  chapters. 
* The  limits  of  this  work  prevent  more  than  the  briefest  reference  to  some 
of  the  more  important  of  these  events,  although  in  number  and  interest 
they  would  suffice  for  a separate  volume  ; and  these  naturally  find  a place 
where  the  sketches  of  the  town  end  and  those  of  the  city  begin.  The 
pathetic  tale  of  the  Bridal  of  Pennacook  reaches  farthest  back  into  the  shadowy 
vista  of  the  past  — 

“A  story  of  the  marriage  of  the  chief 
Of  Saugus  to  the  dusky  Weetamoo, 

Daughter  of  Passaconaway,  who  dwelt 
In  the  old  time  upon  the  Merrimack.” 

The  storyr,  in  brief,  is  that  Winnepurkit,  as  Morton  has  it,  or,  more  properly, 
Winnepoyekin,  son  of  Nanapashemet,  sagamore  of  Saugus,  when  he  came  to 
man’s  estate,  made  choice,  for  his  wife,  of  the  daughter  of  Passaconaway,  the 
great  chieftain  of  the  tribes  inhabiting  the  Merrimack  valley.  Passaconaway 
was  not  only  a mighty  chieftain,  but,  if  we  may  believe  the  early  English 
chronicles  of  his  doings,  he  was  the  most  accomplished  wizard  the  New  World 
ever  knew.  These  learned  and  reverend  writers  gravely  assert  that,  so 
skilled  was  he  in  the  arts  of  necromancy,  he  could  cause  a green  leaf  to 
grow  in  winter,  trees  to  dance,  water  to  burn,  and  numberless  things  of  a like 
marvellous  nature,  through  his  mystical  invocations.  The  union  of  the  young 
people  was  blessed  by  the  great  chieftain,  and  in  due  time  Weetamoo  was  seated 
in  her  lord’s  wigwam  on  Sagamore  Hill,  with  the  broad  bay  spread  out  before 
her  door,  now  shining  like  a burnished  mirror  in  the  sun,  and  then  rolling  its 
angry  waves  upon  the  beach  in  thunderous  monotone,  or  dashing  them  upon 
the  rocks  of  Little  Nahant.  Before  long,  however,  a homesick  longing  for  a 


1 


3G 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


sight  of  her  father  filled  her  heart,  and  like  a kind  husband,  Winnepurkit  sent 
her  home,  escorted  by  some  of  his  most  mighty  men.  The  daughter  was  re- 
ceived with  open  arms,  and  the  escort  were  cordially  entertained  and  graciously 
dismissed.  After  a short  stay  she  signified  a desire  to  return  to  her  noble 
husband,  upon  which  her  father  sent  messengers  to  Winnepurkit  to  notify  him  of 
the  desire  of  his  wife,  and  to  request  the  Saugus  sachem  to  dispatch  a suitable 
guard  to  escort  his  wife  back  through  the  wilderness  to  her  home.  But  here  an 
unexpected  difficulty  arose,  for  Winnepurkit  curtly  told  the  messengers  to  carry 
word  to  his  father-in-law,  “ That  when  his  wife  departed  from  him  he  caused 
his  own  men  to  wait  upon  her  to  her  father’s  territories,  as  did  become  him  ; 
but  now  that  she  had  an  intent  to  return,  it  did  become  her  father  to  send  her 
back  with  a convoy  of  his  own  people.”  Both  were  men  of  high  spirit,  and 
neither  would  yield,  and  so  the  poor  princess  was  forced  to  remain  with  her 
father,  at  least  for  a time.  Tradition  has  it,  however,  that  her  woman’s  wit 
found  a way  through  or  around  the  difficulty,  and  that  she,  after  a while,  made 
her  way  back  to  her  husband’s  home.  Whittier,  however,  gives  a different  and 
tragic  ending  to  the  tale.  In  his  poem,  the  heart-broken  Bride  of  Pennacook 
determines  to  return  alone.  She  steals  away  from  her  attendant  maidens, 
launches  her  frail  canoe  upon  the  swollen  and  threatening  Merrimac,  and  is 
instantly  swept 

“ Down  the  vexed  center  of  that  rushing  tide, 

The  thick,  huge  ice  blocks  threatening  either  side, 

The  foam-white  rocks  of  Amoskeag  in  view, 

With  arrowy  swiftness  — 

Down  the  white  rapids  like  a sere  leaf  whirled, 

On  the  sharp  rocks  and  piled-up  ices  hurled. 

Empty  and  broken,  circled  the  canoe 
In  the  vexed  pool  below,  but  where  was 
Weetamoo?  ” 


THE  PIRATES’  GLEN. 

About  the  year  1656,  in  the  twilight  of  a pleasant  evening,  a strange  vessel 
was  seen  to  approach  the  shore  off  the  mouth  of  the  Saugus  River,  where  she 
furled  her  sails  and  dropped  anchor.  When  the  shades  of  night  had  fallen,  a 
boat  was  lowered,  and  four  men  rowed  silently  up  the  river  to  where  it  emerges 
from  the  hills.  There  they  landed  and  turned  into  the  woods.  The  strange 
visitors  doubtless  thought  themselves  unobserved,  but  those  were  perilous  times, 
and  sharp  eyes  had  followed  them.  Many  were  the  conjectures  occasioned  by 
these  unusual  movements.  The  next  morning  the  settlers  rose  early  to  learn 
more  of  these  unannounced  visitors,  but  the  stranger-vessel  had  disappeared, 
and  no  trace  either  of  her  or  her  singular  crew  could  be  found.  The  occurrence 
was  a nine  days*  wonder  among  the  settlers,  but  the  interest  had  nearly  died  out 
when  one  day  a workman  at  the  Iron  Works  found  a paper  lying  in  a conspicu- 
ous place,  running  to  the  effect  that  if  a certain  quantity  of  shackles,  handcuffs, 
and  other  articles  named,  were  made  and  deposited  with  secrecy  in  a certain 


LYNN  LEGENDS. 


37 


place  in  the  woods,  an  amount  of  silver  equal  to  their  value  would  be  found  in 
their  stead.  The  articles  were  made  and  deposited  as  directed,  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  they  had  been  taken  away,  and  the  money  left  as  agreed  upon. 
Some  months  later  the  four  men  returned,  and  selected  one  of  the  most  secluded 
spots  in  the  woods  of  Saugus  for  their  abode ; and  interest  is  added  to  the  tale 
by  the  statement  that  the  pirate  chief  brought  with  him  a beautiful  woman. 
The  place  of  their  retreat  was  a narrow  valley  shut  in  on  two  sides  by  craggy, 
precipitous  rocks,  and  screened  on  the  other  by  a thick  growth  of  evergreens. 
The  spot  was  admirably  chosen  for  concealment  and  observation  as  well,  for 
from  the  cliff  on  the  eastern  side  of  this  glen  a noble  expanse  of  country  and  sea, 
stretching  far  toward  the  south,  is  spread  before  the  eye.  Here  the  pirates  built 
themselves  a small  hut,  and  here  it  is  said  that  the  chiefs  beautiful  mistress  sick- 
ened and  died.  After  a time  the  retreat  of  the  pirates  became  noised  abroad. 
Three  of  them  were  captured  and  taken  to  England,  where  they  suffered  the 
penalty  of  their  crimes  upon  the  gibbet.  The  fourth,  Thomas  Veale,  escaped, 
and  for  many  years  thereafter  made  his  home  in  a cave  in  the  woods,  which  the 
band  had  previously  utilized  as  a storehouse  for  their  treasures.  Here  he  prac- 
ticed the  trade  of  a shoemaker,  occasionally  visiting  the  village  to  obtain  food. 


ASCENT  TO  DUNGEON  ROCK. 


In  1658  an  earthquake  shook  up  the  settlers  in  a most  alarming  manner. 
The  entire  face  of  Dungeon  Rock  was  split  off,  and  the  cavern  forever  closed 
up.  The  legend  has  it  that  the  pirate  was  entombed  therein,  with  all  his  treas- 
ures, and  possibly  one  of  the  village  girls  who  had  mysteriously  disappeared 
some  months  previous.  A realistic  turn  was  given  to  the  legend  by  the  declara- 
tion of  a certain  Joel  Dunn,  that  on  the  night  of  the  earthquake,  during  the  tre- 
mendous storm  which  raged,  he  got  lost  in  the  woods  at  the  north  of  the  town, 
and  in  his  wanderings  found  himself,  at  the  dead  of  night,  at  the  door  of  the  cav- 
ern. He  entered,  and  found  the  pirate  working  bv  the  light  of  a blazing  pine 
knot.  Newhall  gives  a lifelike  picture  of  their  interview,  which  waxed  as  stormy 


38 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


as  the  weather  outside,  and  the  pirate  had  just  grasped  his  visitor  by  the  throat, 
when  the  earthquake  shock  came.  Just  how  it  came  about  is  not  explained, 
but  somehow  Joel  was  not  included  in  the  general  destruction  which  followed, 
but  was  found  next  morning  in  a sad  state  by  men  from  the  settlement  who, 
alarmed  by  his  non-appearance  the  night  before,  had  set  out  to  search  for  him. 
When  he  had  recovered  he  told  his  wonderful  story,  which  naturally  occasioned 
much  wonderment ; but  while  the  people  seemed  willing  to  believe  the  pirate 
Veale  was  entombed  beneath  Dungeon  Rock,  even  the  grave  Mr.  Whiting  felt 
constrained  to  say  that  while  he  had  no  doubt  that  Joel  Dunn  passed  the  night 
on  which  the  earthquake  occurred,  in  the  woods,  it  was  most  likely  that  a large 
jug  which  Joel  had  taken  into  the  woods  had  been  the  inspiration  of  his 
wonderful  visions.  The  treasures  thus  believed  to  be  buried  in  the  heart  of 
Dungeon  Rock  have  never  been  exhumed,  but  about  forty  years  since,  Hiram 
Marble,  under  the  direction  of  spirit  mediums,  began  the  search  for  it.  For 
more  than  a quarter  of  a century  father  and  son  toiled  early  and  late  to  unlock 
the  secret  caverns  of  the  cliff,  and  when  they  were  ready  to  abandon  the  work, 
they  were  again  spurred  on  by  some  new  delusive  revelation  of  the  spirits. 
And  even  when  death  had  released  the  elder  enthusiast  from  his  delusion,  the 
son  carried  on  the  work  as  the  most  sacred  of  trusts  until  he,  too,  died  in  the 
same  fatal  delusion. 


ENTRANCE  TO  DUNGEON  ROCK  CAVE. 

A visit  to  Dungeon  Rock  is  full  of  interest,  not  only  on  account  of  the 
traditions  which  surround  the  locality,  but  for  the  natural  beauties  which  are 
revealed  on  every  side.  Two  miles  out  from  the  city,  in  the  heart  of  the  Lynn 
forest,  few  wilder  or  more  picturesque  spots  can  be  found  in  New  England,  and 
one  can  hardly  realize  that  he  is  scarcely  out  of  sight  and  sound  of  the  homes 


LYNN  LEGENDS. 


;*9 


and  mart  of  nearly  fifty  thousand  people.  The  ledge  on  one  side  is  a sheer 
precipice  ; the  other  side,  which  the  road  ascends,  is  less  abrupt,  and  is  covered 
with  a grove  of  oak  trees,  growing  among  enormous  boulders,  with  which,  in 


fact,  the  whole  region  abounds.  The 


cave  which  once  existed  in  the  ledge  was 
closed  by  the  great  earthquake  — to 
doubt  the  legend,  with  the  evidences  all 
around  you,  would  be  folly  — and  some 
avaricious  vandal  has  blown  out  the 
remains  of  the  entrance  in  the  vain  hope 
of  finding  out  the  well-kept  secret  of 
the  cliff'.  The  entrance  to  the  excava- 
tion made  by  the  Marbles,  father  and  son, 
is  barred  by  a grating,  not  specially  sug- 
gestive of  aught  piratical,  or  in  any  way 
uncanny,  the  open  sesame  to  which  is  a 
quarter  in  hand,  paid  to  the  pleasant 
appearing  lady,  sister  of  the  younger 
Marble,  who  is  now  the  presiding  genius 
of  the  locality.  The  key  turns  with  a 
creak  in  the  rusty  lock,  and  the  door 
opens  outward  with  a groan.  The  de- 
scent into  the  tunnel  is  first  by  a series 
of  rickety  steps,  then  by  such  foothold 
as  one  is  fortunate  enough  to  gain  on 
the  slippery  rock.  The  entire  gallery 
is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
length,  descending  in  its  course  some 
forty  feet.  On  account,  however,  of  the 
zig-zag  direction  which  the  often-amend- 

e>  o 


that  the  spirits  who 
served  their  earthly 


eli- 


d- 


ed revelations  of  the  spirits  marked  out,  the  rock  is  not  actually  penetrated  more 
than  one  hundred  feet.  The  formation  is  porphyry,  as  hard  as  adamant,  and 
without  seam  or  break  to  indicate  that  a cavern  ever  existed  there  or  thereabouts  ; 
and  one  is  compelled  to  the  opinion 
rected  the  operations  must  have 
prenticeship  in  some  of  the  wild- 
west.  But  scarcely  has  our 
sert  it  when  it  is  again  chal- 
of  the  relics  of  the  pirates  i 
tainer,  tucked  in  cran- 
sheath  looks  as  though 
and  the  knife  has  a sufti- 
thirsty  appearance  to  suit  Pities 
What  is  left  of  the  scissors  ^ e 
look,  but  the  old  anvil  brings  us  back  1 
practical  things.  For  no  matter  how 


cat  enterprises  of  the  wild 
incredulity,  begun  to  as- 
lenged  by  the  production 
found,  so  says  our  enter- 
nies  of  the  rock.  The 
it  had  done  hard  service, 
ciently  piratical,  blood- 
the  most  fastidious, 
has  a more  modern 
to  the  days  of  hard, 
legend  and  story  may 
people  the  rocks  and  grottoes  of  the  neighborhood  with  strange  personages  and 
shapes,  or  fill  the  hollows  of  the  cliff  with  shining  gold  and  precious  gems  and  jew- 


% 


40 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


els  ; regardless  wholly  of  the  phantom  guides  who  promise  to  show  the  path  to  the 
hidden  treasures  ; the  old  anvil  brings  us  to  a realization  of  the  fact  that  the  path 
can  be  gained  by  mortals,  and  the  treasures  secured,  only  by  hard  blows  with  ma- 
terial implements.  Judging  from  the  nature  of  the  rock,  both  father  and  son  must 
have  spent  fully  as  much  time  at  the  anvil  as  in  the  tunnel.  After  all,  the 
history  of  the  experiences  of 
hidden  treasure  of  Dungeon 
story  of  most  lives.  Always 
coveted  blessing ; convinced 


will  bring  it  within  their 
thwarted  again  and  again, 
that  success  will  come — how 
and  gone  to  their  rest  with 
realized  ! But  there  is  no 
thanking  our  guide  for  her 
thoroughly  satisfied  with  our 
ever  in  love  with  Lynn  and  her  surroundings. 


the  Marbles  in  search  of  the 
Rock  reads  much  like  the 
almost  within  reach  of  the 
that  one  more  strong  effort 
grasp  ; disappointed  and 
yet  still  buoyed  with  hope 
many  have  lived  their  day 
their  dearest  expectation  un- 
time for  moralizing.  So, 
attention,  we  return  to  Lynn 
excursion,  and  more  than 


THE  TREASURE  OF  PINES  POINT. 

There  has  ever  been  a peculiar  interest  attaching  to  tales  of  wonder  or 
adventure  wherein  pirates  and  their  exploits  form  an  important  element.  The 
New  World,  with  its  many  unexplored  bays  and  safe  harbors,  which  had  so 
hospitably  received  the  early  settlers,  was  supposed  by  them  to  be  also  in  high 
favor,  as  a safe  rendezvous,  with  the  black-haired,  blood-thirsty  gentry  who 
roamed  the  seas,  collecting  tribute  of  all  nations.  Upon  our  headlands  they  set 
their  watch,  and  held  high  revelry  after  their  successful  ventures.  Their  meth- 
ods of  making  money  were  not  so  gentlemanly  or  refined  as  those  of  some  of 
our  modern  financiers,  but  were  quite  as  honest,  and  the  banks  of  deposit  which 
they  selected  have  never  failed,  nor  their  cashiers  taken  vacations  in  the  peniten- 
tiary or  Canada.  Had  Capt.  Kyd  endowed  all  the  localities  with  which  tradi- 
tion has  credited  him,  his  wealth  must  have  been  marvellously  great,  and  his 
methods  a step  in  advance  of  any  system  of  stock  watering  or  manipulation 
since  devised.  Longfellow  has  invested  the  old  stone  tower  of  Newport  with  a 
halo  of  romance.  Thither,  says  his  Skeleton  in  Armor, 

“Three  weeks  we  westward  bore, 

And  when  the  storm  was  o’er, 

Cloud-like  we  saw  the  shore 
Stretching  to  leeward; 

There,  for  my  lady’s  bower, 

Built  I the  lofty  tower 
Which,  to  this  very  hour. 

Stands  looking  seaward.” 

The  fact  that  this  tower  was  built  by  the  first  settlers  and  used  as  a windmill 
detracts  nothing  from  the  interest  of  the  legend,  and  it  is  possible  that  many, 
if  not  most,  other  legends  which  tell  of  mysterious  visitations  of  pirates  and 


LYNN  LEGENDS. 


41 


secreting  of  treasure  which  they  never  came  to  reclaim  have  as  slender  a foun- 
dation as  the  instance  named.  Nevertheless,  in  the  time  when  the  Old  Anchor 
Tavern,  or  the  u Blew  Ankor,”  as  its  early  title  was,  constituted  the  half-way 
house  between  Boston  and  Salem,  and  around  whose  crack- 
ling fire  the  travellers  and  idlers  used  to  meet  to  exchange 
yarns,  there  was  a belief  held  by  many  that  the  pirate  crew, 
whose  craft  so  mysteriously  appeared  ofl'  the  mouth  of  the 
Saugus  River,  had  buried  a chest  of  gold  beneath  a flat  stone 
at  the  roots  of  a tree  at  Pines  Point,  as  it  was  then  known.  On 
many  a dark  night  might  the  solitary  treasure-seeker  have  been 
seen  groping  among 
the  trees  with  his 
lantern  and  spade, 
vainly  searching  for 
the  hidden  doub- 
loons, but  the  barren 
point  would  not  give 
up  its  secret. 

But  one  ni^ht  a 

O 

party  was  made  up 
at  the  Anchor  Tav- 
ern to  make  a final 
search  for  the  covet- 
ed treasure.  New- 
hall,  in  his  Jewels 
of  the  Third  Planta- 
tion, gives  the  only 
account  of  this  enter- 
prise we  have  seen. 

The  night  agreed 
upon  was  fair,  and  a 

bright  moon  shed  her  favoring  beams  upon  them.  David  Kunkshamooshaw, 
a mighty  wizard,  and  skilled  with  the  divining  rod,  was  one  of  the  party. 
They  made  the  journey  to  the  point  in  the  early  evening.  The  action  of  the 
hazel  rods  in  the  hands  of  David  was  satisfactory  in  the  extreme.  Then  he  pro- 
ceeded, with  his  incantations,  to  charm  away  the  evil  spirits,  who,  he  solemnly 
averred,  would  combine  to  prevent  them  from  accomplishing  their  object,  and  a 
circle  was  drawn  around  the  spot  where  the  hazel  rods  had  indicated  the  treasure 
was  concealed,  over  which  the  spirits  could  not  go  to  do  them  injurv.  He  then 
charged  them  not  to  utter  a word,  even  in  whispers,  for  if  they  did,  their 
whole  labor  would  come  to  naught,  though  by  keeping  within  the  ring 
they  might  escape  bodily  harm.  The  work  then  began,  and  in  due  time  they 
came  upon  the  flat  stone  which  they  knew  covered  the  treasure-chest.  Just 
as  they  began  working  around  it,  there  came  a tremendous  gust  of  wind 
sweeping  down  over  the  beach  with  such  fury  that  they  were  nearly  blown 
from  their  feet  and  outside  the  circle.  But  they  recovered  from  their  momentary 
fright,  and  resumed  operations.  A stout  lever  was  adjusted,  and  they  were  just 


42 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


giving  a vigorous  heave  at  the  stone,  when  an  astounding  neigh,  as  of  a horse 
on  the  very  bound  of  the  circle,  sounded  in  their  ears.  The  lever  dropped  from 
their  grasp,  but  as  they  peered  around  nothing  could  be  seen,  and  at  the  word 
from  David,  who  constantly  perambulated  the  circle,  making  wild  gesticula- 
tions, they  again  plied  the  lever,  and  the  ponderous  stone  began  to  move  from 
its  bed.  Soon  the  edge  was  high  enough  so  that  one  of  them,  holding  down 
his  lantern  and  peering  eagerly  into  the  darkness  beneath,  declared  he  saw  the 
corner  of  the  long-sought-for  iron  chest.  This  stimulated  them  to  renewed 
effort,  and  in  a moment  more  their  dreams  would  have  been  fulfilled,  but  a most 
astounding  circumstance  occurred,  which  is  told  in  the  graphic  language  of 
Judge  Newhall : 

u At  that  critical  moment  there  came  another  awful  gust  of  wind,  but  this 
time  from  over  the  water,  saturating  their  clothing  with  salt  spray,  almost  blind- 
ing them,  and  setting  everything  whirling  again.  Then  was  heard  the  heavy 
tread  of  a rapidly  advancing  horse.  On,  on,  he  dashed,  in  headlong  fury,  out 
into  the  moonlight  — a gigantic  courser,  with  flaring  tail  erect  and  long  mane 
waving  and  curling  in  the  breeze  ; snorting  and  prancing  in  the  most  threaten- 
ing manner.  Astride  his  back,  without  saddle  or  bridle,  hatless,  and  with  hair 
streaming  in  lank  locks  about  his  shoulders,  sat  a man  of  giant  form  and  grace- 
less mein,  a hideous  grin  playing  about  his  toothless  mouth.  On,  on  he  rushed 
with  unabated  fury,  directly  toward  the  petrified  group.  But  the  instant  he 
reached  the  charmed  circle  his  progress  was  arrested.  Not  a hoof  could  pass 
the  magic  bound  ; the  desperate  rearings,  plungings  and  snortings  of  the  horse, 
nor  the  fiery  glaring  and  spurring  of  the  rider,  could  avail.  But  in  that  alarm- 
ing attitude  of  affairs  the  affrighted  diggers  could  not  continue  their  work, 
and  their  tools  fell  from  their  paralyzed  hands.  Things  remained  thus 
for  some  minutes  ; and  then  began  a frantic  race  around  the  circle,  the  distance 
narrowing  at  every  turn.  Just  on  the  verge  the  furious  beast  wheeled  and 
reared  and  plunged,  as  if  determined  to  dash  across  in  spite  of  fate  itself.  David 
now  for  the  first  time  showed  signs  of  terror.  With  fiery  eyes  and  hissing 
breath  the  fiery  steed  poised  himself  on  his  hind  feet,  while  his  rider  in  stentorian 
voice  vociferated  : ‘ Bv  my  blood,  what  do  ye  here?  ye  are  well  set  to  work 

filching  my  gold,  hard  earned  upon  the  sea  by  dagger  and  by  fire.  But  the  devil 
will  yet  save  his  own,  I.  wot.  Aroynt  ye,  or  bear  a pirate’s  malediction.’  The 
ponderous  hoofs  were  quivering  almost  directly  over  the  head  of  David,  who 
had  stepped  forth  to  see  there  was  no  break  in  the  ring,  when,  thrown  suddenly 
off  his  guard,  with  trembling  lips  he  gave  utterance  to  a propitiatory  ejaculation 
in  these  imploring  words  of  his  euphonious  native  tongue  : — ahquonlamannean 
nummatcheseongask ; poliquohwussinnean.  In  an  instant,  down  came  the 
hoofs,  almost  upon  his  head  ; and  then  rang  the  exulting  laugh  of  the  rider  out 
over  the  sea  ; and  the  wild  neigh  of  the  horse  was  louder  still.  The  spell  was 
broken  and  there  was  no  longer  a charm-protected  bound.  They  pranced  within 
the  ring  without  restraint ; the  stone  fell  back  over  the  chest ; the  affrighted  dig- 
gers scattered  for  dear  life.  The  triumphant  horse  and  his  rider, ‘having  acorn- 
plished  their  purpose,  sped  off  among  the  trees,  the  one  whinnying  and  the  other 
laughing  till  the  old  woods  resounded  with  the  weird  clamor.” 


LYNN  LEGENDS. 


43 


This  was  enough.  Treasure-seeking  at  the  point  became  unpopular,  and 
there  is  no  record  of  any  subsequent  attempt  to  locate  or  unearth  the  hidden 
treasure.  There  has  been  a great  change  in  the  appearance  of  the  point  and  the 
surrounding  marshes  since  that  memorable  night,  but  it  may  be  a pleasant  di- 
version some  fine  summer  day  to  undertake  to  locate  the  spot  where  the  chest  of 
gold  as  really  lies  buried  now  as  it  ever  did. 


m 


DURING  the  first  twenty-five  years,  the  colonists  of  New  England  managed 

their  affairs  both  civil  and  religious  entirely  in  their  own  way,  and  doubt- 

] ; less  much  to  their  own  satisfaction.  Nearly,  if  not  quite,  all  of  those  who 

Tcame  hither  from  England  prior  to  the  death  of  Charles  Stuart  did  so  to 
gain  greater  freedom  in  their  religious  opinions  and  practices.  They 
came,  many  of  them,  from  the  best-educated,  property-owning  classes,  who, 
being  hindered  from  worshiping  God  according  to  the  dictates  of  their  con- 
sciences, at  home,  resolutely,  and  of  their  own  accord,  sought  asylum  in  the 
New  World.  Under  the  royal  patent,  those  named  therein  came  into  absolute 
control  of  the  territory  covered  by  it,  subject  only  to  the  claims  of  the  aboriginal 
proprietors,  and  the  several  towns  acquired  a like  title  under  the  grants  from  the 
original  patentees. 

Matters  of  religion,  especially  the  organization  of  a church  and  the  settle- 
ment of  a minister,  became  questions  of  immediate  concern,  for  it  was  because 
of  their  religion,  and  their  regard  for  their  religious  teachers,  that  they  had  left 
their  former  pleasant  homes  to  end  their  days  in  the  wilderness.  Matters  of 
purely  civil  administration  received  only  secondary  attention  during  the  early 
years  of  the  colony,  being,  for  the  most  part,  provided  for  in  the  administration 
and  organization  of  the  church.  What  seems  to  us  a strange  and  unreasonable 
regulation,  because  of  the  changed  circumstances  of  our  time,  that  everyone 
should  be  taxed  for  the  support  of  the  church,  and  that  no  one  should  vote  who 
was  not  a church  member,  was  the  natural  thing  for  them  to  do,  because  ninety- 
nine  persons  out  of  every  hundred  were  members  of  the  church.  The  charter 
of  the  colony  in  no  respect  resembled  the  Constitution  under  which  we  live  ; 
it  was,  on  the  contrary,  that  of  a trading  company  — a close  corporation  which 
had  the  technical  right  to  expel  any  person  whose  presence  was  deemed  preju- 
dicial to  the  interests  of  the  company  in  general.  Having  been  persecuted  for 
their  religion  at  home,  they  naturally  sought,  in  establishing  their  own  religious 
system,  to  throw  around  it  every  safeguard  and  influence  to  maintain  its  suprem- 


QUAKER  INVASION. 


45 


acv  and  secure  its  permanence.  Their  troubles  at  home  had  arisen  from  a con- 
flict of  beliefs ; therefore  they  would  prevent  a recurrence  of  similar  troubles  in 
their  new  home  by  shutting  the  door  tight  against  all  who  would  not  unreserv- 
edly subscribe  to  their  system. 

Their  plan  was,  in  a certain  narrow  and  technical  sense,  just,  and  would 
doubtless  have  been  a good  one  if  it  could  have  been  made  to  work.  The  ob- 
stacle to  its  success  lay  in  their  inability  to  control  the  thoughts  and  consciences 
of  all  their  own  people,  and  the  extent  of  their  coast  line,  which  precluded 
perfect  police  supervision  of  all  new-comers.  The  obstacles  were  not  at  first 
apparent,  and  where  there  was  such  a will  to  carry  out  their  ideas,  with  a man 
like  Gov.  Endicott  in  authority,  seconded  by  an  exceptionally  able  Court  of 
Assistants,  there  was  certain  to  be  devised  ways  and  means. 

The  events  attending  upon  the  preaching  of  George  Fox,  and  the  methods 
by  which  the  English  authorities  attempted  to  check  the  new  religious  move- 
ment, had  not  been  unnoted  in  the  Massachusetts  colony ; and  with  a singular 
seeming  forgetfulness  of  the  trials  they  themselves  had  passed  through,  the 
English  Puritans  were  quite  as  fierce  in  their  denunciations  of  the  new  sect  as 
the  authorities  of  the  Establishment,  and  lent  ready  countenance  to  the  persecu- 
tion which  was  at  once  raised  against  it.  And  the  Massachusetts  authorities 
were  in  full  sympathy  with  their  English  cousins  in  regarding  Quakerism  as  a 
dangerous  heresy  to  be  combatted  by  all  means.  The  Friends  on  the  other  side 
had  endured  enough  persecution  to  raise  the  zeal  of  the  leaders  to  the  point  of 
enthusiasm,  and  it  was  not  long  before  some  of  their  number  felt  called  to  testify 
for  their  faith  in  the  New  World. 

The  first  Quakers  of  note  to  arrive  in  Boston  were  Mary  Fisher  and  Ann 
Austin.  They  came  in  1652,  though  it  appears  that  for  two  years  several  fami- 
lies of  that  faith  had  dwelt  unmolested  in  the  Plymouth  colony,  and  that  a few 
had  settled  in  Lvnn  and  Salem.  Both  were  women  of  mark,  having  suffered 
imprisonment  and  scourging  for  their  faith  in  England.  They  found  the  Massa- 
chusetts authorities  ready  to  receive  them.  They  were  promptly  imprisoned, 
their  books  publicly  burned,  and  by  the  first  departing  vessel  were  sent  back  to 
England,  the  jailer  keeping  their  beds  and  Bibles  for  his  fees.  Eight  more  who 
subsequently  arrived  were  similarly  treated,  and  at  the  next  session  of  the  court 
a law  was  enacted  forbidding  all  masters  of  vessels  from  bringing  Quakers  into 
this  jurisdiction,  and  threatening  any  Friends  who  might  come,  with  the  House 
of  Correction.  This  had  no  effect  to  deter  them  from  coming,  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, only  served  to  inflame  the  missionary  zeal  of  the  Quaker  propagandists. 
The  following  year  a number  of  Friends,  men  and  women,  landed  in  Boston. 
They  received  equally  prompt  attention  as  their  predecessors,  and  several  of 
them  were  accorded  the  additional  courtesy  of  twenty  stripes  on  the  bare  back 
with  a whip  of  three  cords,  knotted  at  the  ends  to  give  point  and  pungency  to 
the  proceedings.  During  the  succeeding  years  the  whipping-post  was  one  of 
the  busiest  of  our  public  institutions.  Some  of  those  who  had  been  sent  away 
having  returned,  the  following  order  was  issued  by  the  Court : 

“To  the  Marshall-General  or  his  deputy:  You  are  to  take  with  you  the 

executioner,  and  repair  to  the  House  of  Correction,  and  there  see  him  cut  off  the 
right  ears  of  John  Copeland,  Christopher  Holder  and  John  Rouse,  Quakers, 


40, 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


in  execution  of  the  sentence  of  the  Court  of  Assistants,  for  the  breach  of  the  law 
entitled  Quakers. 

Edward  Rawson, 

Secretary. 

And  the  order  was  carried  out  to  the  letter  ; but  even  these  harsh  measures  failed 
of  the  desired  effect.  Not  only  were  the  English  Quakers  stirred  to  greater 
zeal,  but  murmurings  against  the  severity  of  the  punishments  began  to  be  heard 
among  the  colonists,  and  it  was  found  that  many  of  them  had  adopted  the  Quaker 
belief,  these  being  specially  numerous  in  the  vicinity  of  Lynn  and  Salem,  so  that 
the  government  had  not  only  those  who  came  hither  to  look  after,  but  also  an 
uncomfortable  number  planted  upon  the  soil,  who  were  every  whit  as  firm  in 
their  faith  as  the  magistrates  in  their  determination  to  root  out  Quakerism. 
Lynn  and  Salem  early  became  a center  of  the  Quaker  influence.  Refusing  to 
perform  military  service  or  to  pay  church  rates,  they  suffered  many  indignities, 
and  had  their  cattle,  corn,  hay  and  domestic  furniture  distrained  for  payment. 
Mention  is  made  in  the  Friends’  records  of  George  Oaks,  who  appears  to  have 
been  one  of  the  first  Quakers  in  Lynn,  the  entry  being : “ Taken  away  for  the 

priest,  Samuel  Whiting,  one  cow,  valued  at  <£3.”  The  good  minister  seems 
not  to  have  despised  the  cow,  though  his  estimate  of  the  Quakers  is  given.  In 
enumerating  the  evils  with  which  the  people  of  New  England  have  to  contend, 
he  remarks  that  “it  is  cause  for  humiliation  that  our  sins  have  exposed  us  to  live 
among  such  wicked  sinners,”  among  whom  he  ranks  “atheists  and  Quakers.” 
It  has  been  understood  among  Friends  that  the  first  Friends’  meetings  in  this 
vicinity  were  held  in  a house  on  what  is  called  the  old  road  to  Salem,  and  near 
the  Lynn  mineral  spring  farm  ; composed  of  those  from  Salem  and  Lynn  who 
had  adopted  the  Friends’  belief.  But  while  these  things  had  been  going  on  in 
Lynn,  the  authorities  in  Boston  had  no  end  of  trouble.  The  whippings, 
imprisonments  and  maimings  to  which  the  Quakers  were  subjected  at  length 
roused  the  genuine  martyr  spirit  in  not  a few,  who  felt  that  they  could  render 
no  better  service  to  their  religion  than  to  come  to  New  England  and  protest 
against  the  persecutions  of  their  sect.  Accordingly  in  1658  the  General  Court 
passed  a law  banishing  all  incoming  Quakers  “ on  pain  of  death.”  This  severe 
legislation  was  not  passed  unanimously.  Very  many  of  the  Court  had  begun  to 
doubt  the  wisdom  of  the  course  that  was  being  pursued,  and  the  measure  had 
only  a majority  of  one  in  a vote  of  twenty-five.  The  details  for  the  enforcement 
of  the  statute  included  summary  arrest  and  imprisonment  without  bail  until  the 
next  term  of  Court.  Scarcely  was  the  ink  dry  on  the  parchment  when  William 
Robinson  and  Marmaduke  Stevens,  with  Mary  Dyer  and  Nicholas  Davis,  arrived 
in  Boston.  They  were  arrested,  and  a decree  of  banishment  issued  against 
them.  The  two  latter  obeyed  for  a time,  but  Robinson  and  Stevens  came 
directly  to  Lynn  and  Salem,  where  they  commenced  active  evangelistic  work. 
But  the  authorities  soon  learned  their  whereabouts,  and  they  were  re-arrested. 
The  following  month  Mary  Dyer  returned  boldly  to  Boston,  and  was  immedi- 
ately secured.  In  due  season  the  fated  trio  were  taken  before  the  Court,  tried, 
and  sentence  of  death  passed  upon  them.  On  the  27th  of  October  they  were 
led  away  to  execution.  Robinson  and  Stevens  were  hanged  first,  but  as  the 
rope  was  being  adjusted  about  the  neck  of  Mary  Dyer,  a reprieve  was  received. 


QUAKER  INVASION. 


47 


and  she  was  sent  to  her  home  in  Rhode  Island.  The  next  summer  found  her 
agrain  in  Boston.  She  was  taken  before  the  Court,  and  the  sentence  reaffirmed. 
Being  asked  why  she  had  returned,  she  said:  “I  came,  in  obedience  to  the 

will  of  God,  to  the  last  General  Court,  desiring  you  to  repeal  your  unrighteous 
laws  of  banishment  on  pain  of  death ; and  that  same  is  my  work  now,  and 
earnest  request ; although  I told  you  that  if  you  refused  to  repeal  them,  the  Lord 
would  send  others  of  His  servants  to  witness  against  them.”  This  time  there 
was  no  reprieve,  and  she  died  at  the  time  appointed. 

The  record  of  the  months  following  reads  little  like  the  history  of  Puritan 
New  England.  It  would  be  impossible  to  describe  the  bitterness  of  persecution 
to  which  Quakers  in  the  northern  counties  of  Massachusetts  and  in  New  Hamp- 
shire were  subjected.  To  the  terrors  of  the  jail  and  the  pillory  were  added 
unspeakable  indignities  at  the  hand  of  brutal  officials.  Both  men  and  women 
were  stripped  of  their  clothing  and  cruelly  scourged  at  the  whipping-post,  or 
were  tied  to  a cart’s  tail  and  whipped  from  town  to  town,  their  property  con- 
fiscated and  their  homes  taken  from  them,  and  in  some  instances  they  were 
condemned  to  be  sold  for  payment  of  jail  and  officers’  fees.  On  one  such 
episode  Whittier  has  founded  his  famous  poem  of  Cassandra  Southwick,  which 


is  in  many  respects  one  of  the  most  thrilling  products  of  his  gifted  pen.  And 
not  a few  suffered  death  upon  the  gallows.  A characteristic  official  document 
of  the  time  reads  thus  : 

“ To  the  Constables  of  Boston,  Charlestown,  Malden  and  Lynn  : 

You  are  required  to  take  into  your  custody,  respectively,  Edward  Wharton, 
convicted  of  being  a vagabond  from  his  own  dwelling  place  ; and  the  Constable 
of  Boston  is  to  whip  him  severely  with  thirty  stripes  on  his  naked  body  ; and 


48 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


from  constable  to  constable  you  are  required  to  convey  him  until  he  come  to 
Salem,  the  place  where  he  saith  he  dwelleth  ; and  in  so  doing  this  shall  be  your 
warrant. 

John  Endicott. 

A sudden  ending  came  to  the  bloody  persecution.  Prominent  Friends  in 
England  succeeded  in  gaining  the  ear  of  Charles,  who  had  but  just  been  called  back 
from  his  twelve  years’  exile.  Reports  had  already  reached  the  royal  ear  of  the 
independent  attitude  assumed  by  the  colonists,  most  of  whom  had  been  in  ardent 
sympathy  with  Cromwell,  and  had  not  been  backward  in  expressing  their  pref- 
erences ; and  the  incident  of  the  persecutions  was  seized  upon  as  a convenient 
pretext  for  letting  the  colonists  feel  the  weight  of  his  hand.  Accordingly  a 
letter  was  addressed  to  Governor  Endicott,  under  the  King’s  hand,  ordering  the 
immediate  cessation  of  the  persecution  ; and,  as  if  to  make  the  intervention  all 
the  more  galling,  the  letter  was  given  into  the  hands  of  Samuel  Shattuck,  a 
Quaker  who  had  but  lately  been  expelled  from  Boston,  to  be  conveyed  to  its 
destination.  The  incidents  of  the  reception  of  this  letter  have  inspired  the  pens 
of  both  Longfellow  and  Whittier.  The  verses  of  the  latter  are  especially  valu- 
able as  showing  the  estimate  in  which  a member  of  the  persecuted  sect  holds  the 
character  and  acts  of  their  greatest  enemy  in  the  New  World : 

THE  KING’S  MISSIVE. 

Under  the  great  hill  sloping  bare 

To  cove  and  meadow  and  common  lot, 

In  his  council  chamber  and  oaken  chair 
Sat  the  worshipful  Governor  Endicott  — 

A grave,  strong  man  who  knew  no  peer 
In  the  pilgrim  land  where  he  ruled  in  fear 
Of  God,  not  man,  and  for  good  or  ill, 

Held  his  trust  with  an  iron  will. 

He  had  shorn  with  his  sword  the  cross  from  out 
The  flag,  and  cloven  the  may-pole  down; 

Harried  the  heathen  round  about, 

And  whipped  the  Quakers  from  town  to  town. 

Earnest  and  honest,  a man  at  need 

To  burn  like  a torch  for  his  own  harsh  creed. 

He  kept  with  the  flaming  brand  of  his  zeal 
The  gate  of  the  holy  commonweal. 

* * * * * * 

The  door  swung  open,  and  Rawson,  the  Clerk, 

Entered  and  whispered  under  breath : 

“There  waits  below  for  the  hangman’s  work 
A fellow  banished  on  pain  of  death  — 

Shattuck  of  Salem,  unhealed  of  the  whip,  # 

Brought  over  in  Master  Goldsmith’s  ship, 

At  anchor  here  in  a Christian  port, 

With  freight  of  the  Devil  and  all  his  sort!” 

Twice  and  thrice  on  his  chamber  floor 
Striding  fiercely  from  wall  to  wall; 

“The  Lord  do  so  to  me  and  more,” 

The  Governor  cried,  “if  I hang  not  all! 


QUAKER  INVASION. 


49 


Bring  hither  the  Quaker  ! ” Calm,  sedate, 

With  the  look  of  a man  at  ease  with  fate. 

Into  that  presence  grim  and  dread 
Came  Samuel  Shattuck,  with  hat  on  head. 

“ Off  with  the  knave’s  hat ! ” An  angry  hand 
Smote  down  the  offence;  but  the  wearer  said, 

With  a quiet  smile : “ By  the  King’s  command, 

I bear  his  message  and  stand  in  his  stead.” 

In  the  Governor’s  hand  a missive  he  laid, 

With  the  royal  arms  on  its  seal  displayed; 

And  the  proud  man  spake,  as  he  gazed  thereat, 

Uncovering:  “Give  Mr.  Shattuck  his  hat.” 

He  turned  to  the  Quaker,  bowing  low : 

“The  King  commandeth  your  friends’  release; 

Doubt  not  he  shall  be  obeyed,  although 
To  his  subject’s  sorrow  and  sin’s  increase. 

What  he  here  enjoineth  John  Endicott 
His  loyal  servant  questioneth  not. 

You  are  free ! God  grant  the  spirit  you  own 
May  take  you  from  us  to  parts  unknown.” 

So  persecution  ended,  and  the  Quakers  gradually  came  into  possession  of 
all  the  rights  of  citizens,  and  were  accorded  the  privilege  of  churches  and 
schools  of  their  own.  In  Lynn  the  number  of  Quakers  rapidly  increased. 
The  witchcraft  delusion  in  1692  diverted  attention  from  them  for  a time,  and 
after  that  had  become  history,  they  were  found  to  have  become  somewhat 
aggressive  and  disputatious.  Finally  Rev.  Mr.  Shepherd  hit  upon  a new 
method  of  combatting  them,  and  a fast  was  appointed  for  the  church,  to  the  end 
“ that  the  spiritual  plague  might  proceed  no  further,”  of  which  Cotton  Mather 
wrote  : u The  spirit  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ  gave  a remarkable  effect  unto 

this  holy  method  of  encountering  the  charms  of  Quakerism.  It  proved  a better 
method  than  any  coercion  of  the  civil  magistrates.”  And  he  adds  : u Quaker- 

ism in  Lynn  received,  as  I am  informed,  a death  wound  from  that  very  day.” 
However  this  may  have  been,  eight  years  later  we  find  the  Rev.  Mr.  Shepherd, 
with  an  imported  champion  from  England,  meeting  the  leading  lights  of  the 
Quakers  in  a joint  discussion,  which  narrowly  escaped  being  a riot.  In  1723 
Richard  Estes  presented  the  society  with  a large  lot  on  Silsbee  street,  on  which 
their  first  house  of  worship  was  erected.  In  1816  that  house  was  removed  to 
make  room  for  the  present  edifice,  and  now  serves  as  an  office  for  S.  N.  Breed 
& Co.,  on  the  corner  of  Broad  and  Beach  streets.  In  1826  the  Quaker  meeting- 
house in  Boston  and  the  burial  grounds  adjoining  having  been  long  disused,  and 
few  or  none  of  the  society  remaining  in  the  city,  it  was  thought  best  to  remove 
the  bones  ; and  the  remains  of  one  hundred  and  nine  persons,  among  whom 
were  many  martyrs  to  the  faith,  were  taken  up  and  removed  to  the  Friends 
cemetery  in  this  city.  The  neighborhood  of  Nahant  street  was  for  many  years 
headquarters  for  the  Society  of  Friends,  and  to  this  day  their  descendants  own 
and  occupy  some  of  the  best  places  in  that  beautiful  section.  This,  in  brief,  is 
the  story  of  the  Quaker  Invasion,  and  it  forms  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
chapters  in  the  history  of  our  city  and  of  the  Commonwealth. 


im 


THE  clouds  of  superstition  still  hung  heavily  over  humanity  when  the  first 
homes  were  made  in  Massachusetts.  The  settlers  had  that  faith  in  God 
^ which  could  support  them  through  the  dangers  and  trials  attendant  upon 
the  establishment  of  a home  in  the  wilderness.  They  had  an  equally 
vivid  belief  in  the  existence  not  only  of  Satan,  but  of  an  innumerable  host  of 
imps  who  waited  upon  him  to  do  his  bidding.  The  first  voyagers  who  ap- 
proached our  shore  reported  that  they  u saw  Indians  and  devils  sitting  upon  the 
rocks  the  settlers,  sitting  in  their  homes  in  the  evening  with  the  doors  and 
windows  tightly  barred,  while  the  forest  choirs  raised  their  nocturnal  anthems, 
could  distinguish  the  voices  of  devils  mingling  with  the  bark  of  the  fox,  the 
howl  of  the  wolf,  and  the  scream  of  the  catamount.  And  even  Obadiah 
Turner,  one  of  the  brightest  and  steadiest  lights  of  the  community,  credited 
Satan  with  personal  attentions  rendered.  He  tells  his  own  story  best : 

“ It  was  somewhat  within  ye  night  when  we  came  in  sight  of  home.  In 
coming  over  ye  hillock  near  ye  doore  of  our  habitation,  I descried  a daintie 
white  rabbit,  as  yt  seemed,  well  I deemed  would  make  a savory  dish  for  break- 
fast on  ye  morrow.  Giving  chase,  I was  soon  almost  vpon  him,  when,  lo,  he 
whisked  up  a bushy  tail  over  his  hinder  parts,  and  then  threw  it  towards  me 
with  a mighty  rush  ; and  yt  shed  upon  me  a liquor  of  such  stinke  yt  nothing 
but  ye  opening  of  ye  bottomless  pit  can  equal.  My  eyes  were  blinded,  and  my 
breath  seemed  stopped  forever.  When  I recovered,  ye  smell  remained  vpon 
me,  insomuch  yt  they  would  fain  drive  me  from  ye  house,  saying  yt  they  could 
not  abide  within  while  I remained.  And  I still  carry  yt  about  with  me  in  a yet 
terrible  degree.  I am  persuaded  yt  is  another  device  of  Satan  ; yt  four-footed 
beast  being  air  impe  let  to  do  ye  Devil  his  baptism  by  sprinkling.” 

Among  a people  thus  ready  to  give  the  devil  his  due  and  more,  it  is  little 
wonder  that  belief  in  witchcraft,  which  had  held  full  sway  in  England  and  on 
the  continent  for  two  centuries,  should  be  regarded  almost  as  one  of  the  tenets 
of  their  religion.  Against  an  inherited  superstition,  reason  and  judgment  are 
of  little  avail. 


THE  WITCHCRAFT  TRAGEDY. 


51 


The  popular  idea  of  a witch  was  grotesque  ; the  theory  being  that  in  the 
constant  endeavor  of  Satan  to  win  back  to  himself  those  souls  who  had  been 
redeemed  by  the  death  of  Christ  and  baptized,  many,  probably  most,  would  be 
faithful  to  their  vows  and  the  church,  in  which  case  he  had  no  power  over  them  ; 
but  that  occasionally  an  individual  would  be  found,  who,  yielding  to  his  wiles, 
entered  into  a written  compact  whereby,  in  exchange  for  their  souls,  they  re- 
ceived certain  specified  powers  to  work  evil,  such  as  to  raise  storms,  blast  crops, 
render  men  and  beasts  barren,  inflict  racking  pains  upon  an  enemv  or  cause 
him  to  waste  away  in  sickness;  and  an  evil  spirit  was  appointed  as  a special 
attendant,  which  most  often  took  the  form  of  a cat,  but  could  transform  itself  at 
will  into  the  likeness  of  any  other  animal.  It  was  believed  that  Satan  made  his 
conquests  in  the  form  of  a beautiful  man  or  maiden,  with  whom  vows  of  love 
were  plighted,  and  that  at  certain  stated  times  were  held  meetings  of  witches 
and  their  Satanic  lovers,  called  witches’  sabbaths,  to  which  they  rode  through 
the  air  seated  comfortably  astride  of  a broomstick,  making  their  exit  by  the 
chimney  and  returning  in  the  same  manner ; and  having  sold  themselves  to 
Satan,  as  good  subjects  they  must  continually  strive  to  induce  others  to  similarly 
dispose  of  themselves.  But  with  all  the  power  thus  conferred  upon  the  deluded 
mortal,  they  could  not  exercise  it  to  better  their  own  condition. 

There  were  various  methods  of  testing  alleged  witches,  to  ascertain  if  they 
were  guilty  of  forbidden  practices.  One  was,  to  confront  them  with  their  vic- 
tims, and  if  the  paroxysms  or  phenomena  of  the  infliction  were  repeated,  it  was 
regarded  as  positive  proof  of  guilt.  Another  method  was,  to  search  the  body 
of  the  accused  for  the  “ devil’s  mark.”  When  the  compact  with  Satan  was 
sealed,  he  was  supposed  to  touch  some  part  of  the  body,  which  at  once  lost  the 
sense  of  touch.  The  delicate  and  humane  method  of  finding  this  mark  was  to 
remove  the  witch’s  clothing,  and  examine  every  portion  of  the  body,  using 
sharp  needles  to  locate  the  insensible  part.  Another  method,  and  one  which 
was  deemed  infallible,  was  to  cast  the  accused  into  deep  water.  If  she  floated, 
it  was  infallible  evidence  of  Satanic  assistance.  If  she  sunk,  she  was  as  con- 
clusively proved  innocent ; but  the  vindication  usually  came  too  late  to  be  of 
much  comfort  to  the  accused.  All  these  dark  superstitions  the  settlers  in  these 
New  England  towns  brought  with  them  from  England.  For  some  years  they 
had  more  tangible  things  to  occupy  their  attention,  but  when  the  occasion 
served,  the  pent-up  flames  burst  forth  with  redoubled  fury. 

In  those  early  days  the  New  England  towns  were  more  closely  bound  to- 
gether in  a common  interest  than  now,  and  though  the  earliest  outbreaks  of  the 
witchcraft  mania  took  place  in  Boston  and  Salem,  thd  people  of  Lynn  were  as 
profoundly  stirred  by  them  as  the  dwellers  in  the  localities  named.  The  first 
person  to  be  denounced  as  a witch  and  arrested,  condemned  and  executed  was 
Margaret  Jones  of  Charlestown,  this  occurring  in  164S.  Seven  years  later  Mrs. 
Ann  Hibbins,  of  Boston,  was  charged  with  witchcraft  and  condemned.  Her 
case  attracted  widespread  attention,  and  there  were  many  dissenters  from  the 
severity  of  her  sentence.  The  charge  against  her  consisted  chiefly  in  the  alle- 
gation that  she  possessed  a crabbed  temper,  and  the  original  accusation  was 
doubtless  caused  by  personal  spite.  She  was  executed  on  Boston  Common. 
From  that  time  until  1692  there  were  occasional  and  widely  separated  accusa- 


52 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


tions  and  trials  for  witchcraft,  not  enough  to  cause  great  popular  excitement, 
but  sufficient  to  keep  alive  the  fire  of  superstition,  ready  to  burst  into  flame  when 

the  occasion  should  serve. 

The  outbreak  came  in 
1692,  and  so  startlingly 
near  our  doors  as  to  al- 
most achieve  the  impor- 
tance of  a local  event. 
Salem  Village,  now  a por- 
tion of  Danvers,  is  a quiet, 
unpretentious  place,  little 
suggestive  of  witchcraft  or 

OO 

anything  else  so  uncanny  and  weird.  The 
quiet  street  still  winds  by  the  same  old 
trees  which  stood  there  then,  and  the  houses 
which  were  the  homes  of  the  principal  actors  in 
the  bloody  drama  remain  upon  the  old  founda- 
tions. The  parsonage  was  the  scene  of  the  first 
outbreak.  Two  children  of  the  Rev.  Samuel 
Parris  were  attacked  with  convulsions,  and  a 
black  slave  called  Tituba  was  accused  of  having 
bewitched  them,  the  accusation 
being  made  by  a number  of  young 
girls  who  had  been  accustomed  to 
meet  at  the  parsonage  at  stated 
times  during  the  winter.  Tituba 
was  promptly  arrested, 
and  in  due  course  of  jus- 
tice put  on  trial.  Noth- 
ing could  be  proved 
against  her  that  would 
justify  summary  pro- 
ceedings, and  the  prin- 
cipal excuse  for 
holding  her  in 
jail  for  nine 
months  were 
certain  boastful 
claims  made  by 
her  at  her  trial 

execution  of  MRS.  ann  hibbins.  which  have  a 

strong  suggestion  of  modern  spiritualism.  She  was  finally  sold  for  payment  of 
jail  fees.  The  excitement  caused  by  this  occurrence  soon  rose  to  a frenzy.  As 
though  encouraged  by  their  success  in  the  case  mentioned,  the  circle  of  girls 
soon  after  made  accusation  against  well-known  and  hitherto  respected  residents 
of  the  surrounding  country,  and  when  confronted  with  the  victims  in  court,  the 
girls  would  calmly  make  the  most  preposterous  statements  of  things  done  by  the 


THE  WITCHCRAFT  TRAGEDY. 


53 


accused,  which  were  accepted  by  the  learned  jurists  of  the  day  as  competent 
evidence.  Several  of  the  accused  persons,  in  order  to  save  their  lives,  confessed 
to  having  signed  their  names  in  the  Devil’s  book,  to  having  been  baptized  by 
him,  and  to  have  attended  midnight  meetings  of  witches,  or  sacraments  held 
on  the  green  near  the  parsonage,  to  which  they  came  riding  through  the  air. 
They  admitted  that  he  had  sometimes  appeared  to  them  in  the  form  of  a black 
dog  or  cat,  sometimes  in  that  of  a horse,  and  once  as  “ a fine,  grave  man,”  but 
generally  as  a black  man  of  severe  aspect.  But  many  would  not  so  confess, 
and  suffered  the  penalty.  The  trials  were  the  merest  farce,  the  judgment 
apparently  being  made  before  the  evidence  was  in.  Thirteen  women  and  five 
men  were  hung,  and  two  — Rev.  George  Burroughs  and  Giles  Corey  — were 
pressed  to  death  beneath  heavy  weights  because  they  would  neither  confess  nor 
plead  to  their  accusations.  More  than  one  hundred  others  were  accused  and 


THE  PARSONAGE,  SALEM  VILLAGE. 

imprisoned,  of  whom  seven  belonged  in  Lynn.  Many  of  these  persons  were 
of  advanced  age,  and  the  long  months  spent  in  Boston  prison  must  have  been  a 
terrible  hardship.  It  was  a reign  of  terror  indeed.  No  one  was  safe.  The 
honored  citizen  of  one  day  often  found  himself  doomed  upon  the  next,  and 
many  happy  homes  were,  without  a moment’s  warning,  broken  up,  and  the 
father  or  mother,  and  sometimes  both,  hurried  off  to  prison  and  the  mockery  of 
a trial.  The  delusion  finally  furnished  the  cause  of  its  downfall.  The  Rev. 
Jeremiah  Shepherd  of  Lynn  was  denounced  as  a wizard.  The  charge  was  so 
manifestly  absurd,  and  the  friends  of  the  worthy  pastor  made  such  demonstra- 
tions of  opposition,  that  the  judges  called  a halt.  The  excitement  cooled  as 
quicklv  as  it  had  risen.  Those  confined  in  jail  were  released,  and  in  many 
cases  compensated  for  lost  time  ; and  most  of  the  girls  whose  antics  had  caused 
the  mischief,  came  before  the  church,  humbly  confessed  their  errors — the  blame 
for  which  was  duly  laid  upon  Satan,  who  had  possessed  them — and  pleaded  for 
forgiveness.  Thus  ended  this  most  weird  and  bloody  chapter  in  the  history  of 
our  city  and  vicinity'.  It  reads  little  like  a story  of  real  life  actually'  lived  near 
the  spot  we  call  home  ; yet  such  it  is.  The  superstitions  of  those  old  days  are 
gone  — or  exchanged;  but  whether  exchanged  or  gone  will  not  be  told  until 


54 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


two  more  centuries  have  passed  by.  Perhaps,  then,  some  poet  will  sing  of  the 
romance  of  these  days  as  sweetly  as  Whittier  has  sung  the  requiem  of  the  days 
gone  by  : 

“ How  has  New  England’s  romance  fled, 

Even  as  a vision  of  the  morning! 

Its  rites  foredone, — its  guardians  dead, — 

Its  priestesses,  bereft  of  dread, 

Waking  the  veriest  urchin’s  scorning ! 

Gone  like  the  Indian  wizard’s  yell, 

And  fire-dance  round  the  magic  rock ! 

Forgotten  like  the  Druid’s  spell 
At  moonrise  by  his  holy  oak ! 

No  more  along  the  shadowy  glen 
Glide  the  dim  ghosts  of  murdered  men; 

No  more  the  unquiet  churchyard  dead 
Glimpse  upward  from  their  turfy  bed, 

Startling  the  traveller,  late  and  lone; 

As  on  some  night  of  starless  weather 
They  silently  commune  together, 

Each  sitting  on  his  own  headstone ! 

The  roofless  house,  decayed,  deserted, 

Its  living  tenants  all  departed, 

No  longer  rings  with  midnight  revel 
Of  witch,  or  ghost,  or  goblin  evil; 

No  pale  blue  flame  sends  out  its  flashes 
Through  creviced  roof  or  shattered  sashes ! — 

The  witch-grass  round  the  hazel  spring 
May  sharply  to  the  night-air  sing, 

But  there  no  more  shall  withered  hags 
Refresh  at  ease  their  broomstick  nags, 

Or  taste  those  hazel-shadowed  waters 
As  beverage  meet  for  Satan’s  daughters; 

No  more  their  mimic  tones  be  heard, — 

The  mew  of  cat, — the  chirp  of  bird, — 

Shrill  blending  with  the  hoarser  laughter 
Of  the  fell  demon  following  after ! ” 


4 4 ^IIIE  stood  upon  a bare,  tall  crag 

Which  overlooked  her  rugged  cot  — 

A wasted,  gray  and  meagre  hag, 

In  features  evil  as  her  lot. 

She  had  the  crooked  nose  of  a witch, 

* 

And  a crooked  back  and  chin; 

And  in  her  gait  she  had  a hitch, 

And  in  her  hand  she  carried  a switch 
To  aid  her  work  of  sin  — 

A twig  of  wizard  hazel,  which 
Had  grown  beside  a haunted  ditch.” 

Whittier  must  have  given  his  then  youthful  fancy  loose  rein  in  this  word- 
picture  of  our  famous  townswoman.  Doubtless  he  described  what,  according  to 
the  popular  fancy,  a witch  should  resemble.  But  Moll  Pitcher  was  no  witch, 
though  doubtless  if  she  had  lived  in  the  days  of  the  witchcraft  frenzy,  she  would 
have  been  hanged  as  such  with  little  ceremony.  But  it  was  less  than  three- 
quarters  of  a century  ago  that  she  lived  in  her  little  cottage,  opposite  the  head  of 
Pearl  street,  on  the  north  side  of  Essex,  where  for  fifty  years  she  solved  the 
doubts  and  mysteries  which  troubled  her  contemporaries.  Her  father,  Capt. 
John  Dimond,  commanded  a srqall  vessel  sailing  out  of  Marblehead.  She  was 
born  in  1738,  and  early  married  Robert  Pitcher,  a Lynn  shoemaker  — a man  of 
no  force  of  character  — and  the  chief  burden  of  the  support  of  the  little  family, 
one  son  and  three  daughters,  early  fell  on  her.  Her  ancestors  had  borne  a repu- 
tation as  wizards  of  greater  or  less  attainment,  a favorite  accomplishment  of  her 
grandfather  having  been  to  pace  up  and  down  among  the  graves  in  the  church- 
yard during  the  most  furious  storms,  and  direct  the  course  of  vessels  attempting 
to  make  the  harbor,  his  voice  plainly  audible  to  the  sailors,  no  matter  how  loudly 
the  storm  might  roar,  or  how  far  out  the  vessel  might  be.  With  such  a reputa- 
tion ready-made  in  the  family,  it  is,  perhaps,  little  wonder  that  young  Mistress 
Pitcher  sought  to  lighten  the  pressure  of  poverty  by  the  exercise  of  her  inherited 
gifts.  But  whatever  was  the  motive  that  first  impelled  her  to  practice  the  art  of 


66 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


soothsaying,  her  early  success  was  great,  and  her  fame  spread  until  her  musical 
name  became  a household  word  not  only  throughout  this  land  and  England,  but 
in  every  port  where  the  Yankee  sailor  spun  his  yarns,  were  related  stories  of  the 
Lynn  pythoness,  which  doubtless  suffered  no  loss  of  embellishment  or  detail 
because  of  the  inborn  credulity  of  the  sailor  boys.  Her  powers  lay  in  no  special 
direction,  but  she  was  sought  alike  by  the  swain  in  doubt  as  to  the  feelings  of 
his  fair  one  ; by  the  maiden  anxious  to  know  of  the  safety  of  her  sailor  lover  ; 
by  the  sailor,  to  know  if  he  should  have  a safe  return  ; by  the  merchant,  solicit- 
ous of  the  success  of  his  ventures ; and  by  the  noble,  to  learn  the  future  course 
of  the  affairs  of  state.  The  well-worn  path  to  her  cottage  was  trodden  by  rich 
and  poor,  high  and  low,  alike.  No  matter  what  their  station  in  the  outside 
world,  within  the  brown  cottage  beneath  the  shadow  of  High  Rock,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  renowned  fortune-teller,  they  stood  on  a common  level,  and  for  a 
consideration  could  learn  the  whereabouts  of  lost  property  or  friends,  or  get  the 
merest  peep  behind  the  curtain  of  the  future. 

Lewis,  who  was  familiar  with  her  appearance,  having  known  her,  leaves  a 
picture  very  different  from  the  fancy  sketch  of  the  Quaker  bard  : “ She  was  of 

medium  height  and  size  for  a woman,  with  a good  form  and  agreeable  manners. 
Her  head,  phrenologically  considered,  was  somewhat  capacious,  her  forehead 
broad  and  full,  her  hair  dark  brown,  her  nose  inclining  to  be  long,  and  her  face 
pale  and  thin.  Her  countenance  was  intellectual,  and  she  had  the  contour  of 
face  and  expression  which,  without  being  positively  beautiful,  is  nevertheless 


decidedly  interesting, — a thoughtful,  pensive,  sometimes  downcast  look,  almost 
approaching  to  melancholy, — an  eye,  when  she  looked  at  you,  of  calm  and  keen 
penetration, — and  an  expression  of  intelligent  discernment  half  mingled  with  a 
glance  of  shrewdness.” 


MOLL  PITCHER. 


57 


What  was  the  secret  of  the  remarkable  power  of  Moll  Pitcher?  Here  she 
dwelt  all  the  years  of  a long  life,  going  in  and  out  before  the  people,  her  life 
open  before  them ; reputable,  charitable,  and  given  to  no  occult  or  mysterious 
rites  other  than  scanning  the  bottom  of  a tea-cup  or  musing  over  the  cards,  and 
it  is  most  likely  that  she  had  little  regard  for  these  ceremonies,  but  used  them  to 
gain  time  while  cautiously  watching  her  visitors  for  a clue  to  their  history  or 
desires ; but  more  often  she  calmly  looked  her  customers  over  and  talked  with 
them  face  to  face.  Yet  her  fame  increased  with  her  years.  The  stories  that  are 
told  of  her  achievements,  not  only  in  piercing  the  secrets  of  the  future,  but  in 
solving  the  mysteries  of  the  current  happenings,  would  rouse  the  smile  of  in- 
credulity were  they  not  recorded  by  persons  of  undoubted  veracity  and  relia- 
bility. Possibly  to  great  native  shrewdness  and  tact  in  divining  the  hidden 
thoughts  and  desires  of  her  visitors  was  added  in  a high  degree  the  clairvoyant 
faculty ; but  probably  most  of  her  revelations  could  be  accounted  for  without 
resort  to  this  intangible  quality.  According  to  the  proverb,  44  it  is  the  unex- 
pected that  happens  ; ” not  that  the  occurrences  of  every  day  are  not  the  natural 
outcome  of  antecedent  acts,  but  because  men,  in  forming  their  expectations, 
ordinarily  think  along  the  line  of  their  desires,  rather  than  according  to  the  logic 
of  the  events  of  their  past  lives.  If,  therefore,  the  sibyl,  having  gained  from  the 
unsuspecting  guest  the  main  facts  of  his  life  to  the  time  of  their  meeting,  has 
the  logical  force  to  deduce  from  them  their  natural  outcome  in  his  after  years, 
the  44  fortune”  which  she  may  tell  him  will  very  likely  be  vastly  different  from 
his  anticipations,  but  will  probably  be  the  things  which  must  inevitably  result 
from  his  course  of  life.  To  a mind  on  the  alert  and  trained  by  long  experience^ 
the  slightest  admission  may  be  a sufficient  clew  to  the  secret  of  a life.  Doubt- 
less Moll  Pitcher  made  a great  many  mistakes.  These  would  be  little  heard  of 
and  soon  forgotten,  but  a prediction  verified  under  extraordinary  circumstances 
was  sure  to  be  talked  of  as  a wonder,  and  to  lose  nothing  in  each  repetition ; 
and  among  the  thousands  who  sought  her  counsel,  there  could  hardly  fail  of 
being  many  who  would  unconsciously  furnish  her  with  the  data  for  a wonder- 
fully accurate  “fortune.”  But  even  this  supposition  will  not  satisfactorily 
account  for  many  of  her  achievements  in  her  peculiar  line,  and  it  is  easier  to  lay 


MOLL  PITCHER’S  COTTAGE. 


58 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


the  secret  of  tnem  at  the  door  of  clairvoyance  than  to  trace  them  to  their  actual 
origin.  Whatever  was  the  secret  of  her  power,  she  was  the  most  successful 
fortune-teller  of  her  day  ; she  had  no  equals  among  her  predecessors,  and  since 
she  died  there  has  been  none  like  her.  The  home  she  lived  in  still  stands  near 
its  old  foundation,  on  Essex,  at  the  head  of  Pearl  street.  If  only  its  walls  could 
be  induced  to  tell  the  many  strange  things  they  have  heard  in  their  day,  and  the 
names  of  all  the  persons  who  crossed  the  sibyl’s  palm  with  the  magic  key  to  her 
knowledge  of  the  future,  what  a wondrously  interesting  story  could  be  written ! 
She  was  married  on  the  2nd  of  October,  1760,  and  died  April  9th,  1813. 

“ Even  she,  our  own  weird  heroine, 

Sole  Pythoness  of  ancient  Lynn, 

Sleeps  calmly  where  the  living  laid  her; 

And  the  wide  realm  of  sorcery. 

Left  by  its  latest  mistress  free, 

Hath  found  no  gray  and  skilled  invader.” 


■ 


CpIIIS  strange  wanderer  of  the  seas  can  scarcely  be  classed  as  an  exclusively 
Lynn  institution,  but  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century  he  created  a 
tremendous  sensation  here  and  hereabouts.  That  there  was  such  a visitor 
to  our  shores  and  bay  in  the  early  summer  of  1S19  and  several  seasons 
after,  is  true  past  question  ; it  was  through  attempts  to  describe  him,  and  worse 
still,  to  estimate  his  length,  that  many  reputations  well  established  as  to  truth 
and  veracity  received  a wrench  from  which  they  have  never  recovered.  When 
Col.  T.  H.  Perkins,  a well-known  resident  of  Boston,  was  asked  by  an  English 
friend  whether  he  had  heard  of  the  sea  serpent,  he  replied  : u Unfortunately  I 

have  seen  it.”  He  felt  that  a shadow  had  somehow  closed  in  upon  him  from 
which  he  was  unable  to  emerge. 

His  snakeship’s  comings  were  as  unannounced  as  his  departures  were  un- 
ceremonious, and  he  was  frequently  seen  taking  his  morning  swim  along  the 
shores,  his  head  elevated  at  a good  sight-seeing  distance  above  the  waves. 
Whether  the  people  he  saw  were  too  inquisitive,  or  the  country  not  to  his  liking, 
is  not  known,  but  he  declined  to  fix  his  residence  here,  though  no  doubt  he 
could  have  made  very  advantageous  terms  as  a permanent  summer  attraction. 
A recently  published  letter  by  a fellow  townsman  gives  as  good  a description  of 
him  as  any  we  have  seen. 

“ Lynn,  Mass.,  June  26,  18S1. 

Mr.  C.  F.  Holder. 

Dear  Sir : — Yours  of  the  24th  inst.  came  duly  to  hand,  and,  in  reply 
to  that  part  of  it  relating  to  the  account  given  by  myself  of  a strange  fish,  ser- 
pent, or  some  other  marine  animal  called  a sea  serpent,  I have  to  say  that  I saw 
him  on  a pleasant,  calm  summer  morning  of  August,  1819,  from  Long  Beach, 
Lynn,  now  Nahant.  At  this  time  he  was  about  a quarter  of  a mile  away  ; but 
the  water  was  so  smooth  that  I could  plainly  see  his  head  and  the  motion  of  his 
body,  but  not  distinctly  enough  to  give  a good  description  of  him.  Later  in  the 
day  I saw  him  again  off  ‘ Red  Rock.*  He  then  passed  along  about  one  hundred 


GO 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


feet  from  where  I stood,  with  head  about  two  feet  out  of  the  water,  and  his 
speed  was  about  the  ordinary  of  a common  steamer.  What  I saw  of  his  length 
was  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet. 

It  was  very  difficult  to  count  the  bunches  or  humps  (not  fins)  upon  his 
back,  as,  by  the  undulating  motion,  they  did  not  all  appear  at  once.  This 
accounts,  in  part,  for  the  varied  descriptions  given  of  him  by  different  parties. 
His  appearance  upon  the  surface  of  the  water  was  occasional  and  but  for  a short 
time.  The  color  of  his  skin  was  dark,  differing  but  little  from  the  water,  or  the 
back  of  any  common  fish.  This  is  the  best  description  I can  give  of  him  from 
my  own  observation,  and  I saw  the  monster  just  as  truly,  although  not  quite  so 
clearly,  as  I ever  saw  anything. 


This  matter  has  been  treated  by  many  as  a hoax,  fish  story,  or  a seaside 
phenomenon  to  bring  trade  and  profit  to  the  watering-places  ; but,  notwith- 
standing all  this,  there  is  no  doubt  in  my  mind  that  some  kind  of  an  uncommon 
or  strange  rover  in  the  form  of  a snake  or  a serpent,  called  an  ichthyosaurus, 
plesiosaurus,  or  some  other  long-named  marine  animal,  has  been  seen  by  hund- 
reds of  men  and  boys  in  our  own,  if  not  in  other  waters.  And  five  persons 
beside  myself — Amos  Lawrence,  Samuel  Cabot  and  James  Prince,  of  Boston, 
Benjamin  F.  Newhall,  of  Saugus,  and  John  Marston,  of  Swampscott  — bore 
public  testimony  of  having  seen  him  at  the  time. 

Yours  Truly, 

Nathan  D.  Chase.” 

The  gentlemen  named  were  all  interviewed  at  the  time,  and  their  testi- 
mony, to  make  it,  if  possible,  more  conclusive,  was  sworn  to  before  a magis- 
trate, and  differed  only  in  detail  from  that  of  Mr.  Chase,  except  that  Mr.  Mar- 
ston thought  he  might  have  been  a hundred  feet  long.  At  various  times  and  in 
various  places,  from  Nahant  to  Nova  Scotia,  his  serpentine  majesty  has  suddenly 
raised  his  head  above  the  waves,  carrying  wonder  and  affright  to  the  hearts  of 
all  beholders.  All  tell  about  the  same  story  of  him  with  the  exception  of  the 
crew  of  the  bark  “ Pauline,”  of  London.  Their  testimony,  taken  before  a 
magistrate  at  Liverpool,  was : 

“Borough  of  Liverpool,  in  the  County  Palatine  of  Lancaster,  to  wit: 
We,  the  undersigned,  captain,  officers  and  crew  of  the  bark  Pauline  of 


THE  SEA  SERPENT. 


G1 


Liverpool,  in  the  County  of  Lancaster,  in  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  do  solemnly  and  sincerely  declare  that  on  July  Sth,  1875,  in  lati- 
tute  5 deg.  S.  and  longitude  35  deg.  W.,  we  observed  three  large  sperm  whales, 
and  one  of  them  was  gripped  round  the  body  with  two  turns  of  what  appeared 
to  be  a huge  serpent.  The  head  and  tail  appeared  to  have  a length  beyond  the 
coils  of  about  thirty  feet,  and  its  girth  eight  or  nine  feet.  The  serpent  whirled 
its  victim  round  and  round  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  suddenly  dragged 
the  whale  to  the  bottom  head  first.  George  Drevar,  Master;  Horatio  Thomp- 
son, John  Henderson  Landells,  Owen  Baker,  William  Lewarn.” 

That  was  quite  a fish  story,  but  it  by  no  means  measured  their  capacity  in  that 
line,  for  five  days  later  three  of  the  same  ship’s  crew  made  affidavit  that  they  had 
seen  the  serpent,  his  head  “ elevated  some  sixty  feet  in  the  air.”  What  length 
of  body  and  tail  would  be  required  to  enable  the  serpent  to  elevate  his  head  sixty 
feet  in  the  air,  we  leave  for  others  to  figure  out ; but  it  seems  a pity  that  they 
could  not  have  been  contented  to  let  a good  enough  story  alone.  At  intervals 
during  these  later  years  this  strange  wanderer  of  the  seas  has  put  in  an  appear- 
ance now  here,  now  there  ; but  those  across  whose  path  he  has  swum  have  be- 
come very  guarded  in  their  references  to  him,  owing,  possibly,  to  sundry  unkind 
references  to  the  unaqueous  condition  of  their  ship  stores.  But  the  local  de- 
scriptions given  of  this  king  of  the  serpents  have  attracted  wide  attention  in  sci- 
entific circles,  and  even  inspired  one  poet’s  muse  : 

“ Welter  upon  the  waters,  mighty  one, 

And  stretch  thee  in  the  ocean’s  trough  of  brine; 

Turn  thy  wet  scales  up  to  the  wind  and  sun, 

And  toss  the  billows  from  thy  flashing  fin; 

Heave  thy  deep  breathings  to  the  ocean’s  din, 

And  bound  upon  its  ridges  in  thy  pride; 

Or  dive  down  to  its  lowest  depths,  and  in 
The  caverns  where  its  unknown  monsters  hide, 

Measure  thy  length  beneath  the  gulf  stream  tide; 

Or  rest  thee  on  the  navel  of  that  sea 
Where,  floating  on  the  maelstrom,  abide 

The  Ivrakens,  sheltering  under  Norway’s  lee  — 

But  go  not  to  Nahant,  lest  men  should  swear 
You  are  a great  deal  bigger  than  you  are.” 

— J.  G.  Brainerd. 


NAHANT  BREAKERS. 


J 


N the  fourteenth  day  of  May,  1850,  the  town  organiza- 
tion, under  which  Lynn  had  lived  peacefully  and  happily  for  two  centuries, 
was  superseded  by  the  city  form  of  government.  The  change  was  not  made 
without  a struggle,  and  for  two  successive  years  Mr.  George  Hood,  one  of  the 
most  public-spirited  men  of  the  time,  successfully  led  the  opposition  to  the  pro- 
posed measure;  but  the  majority  of  the  people  were  against  him.  Notwith- 
standing his  pronounced  opposition,  his  fellow-citizens  were  quick  to  see  that 
his  course  was  governed  by  motives  of  public  spirit  and  solicitous  regard  for  the 
best  welfare  of  the  town,  and  at  the  first  election  of  city  officers,  he  was  chosen 
Mayor  by  a small  majority.  The  first  City  Government  was  organized  on  the 
date  above  named,  with  Daniel  C.  Baker  as  President  of  the  Council,  and 
Richard  Bassett  as  City  Clerk.  Under  the  careful  guidance  of  Mayor  Hood, 
the  machinery  of  the  new  city  was  soon  made  to  run  smoothly.  His  large  busi- 
ness experience  and  knowledge  of  public  affairs,  gained  by  several  years’  service 
in  the  General  Court  and  other  public  positions,  specially  fitted  him  for  the 
duties  of  Mayor,  and  he  devoted  himself  with  as  much  energy  to  promoting  the 
interests  of  the  city  as  he  had  to  opposing  the  acceptance  of  the  city  charter. 
The  second  year  he  was  re-elected  by  a very  large  majority,  showing  that  the 
people  recognized  his  faithful  service  in  their  behalf.  The  third  year  he  de- 
clined a renomination.  Among  the  more  important  events  of  the  two  years  of 
Mayor  Hood’s  administration  may  be  mentioned  the  readjustment  of  the  hours 
of  labor,  whereby  ten  hours  came  to  be  accepted  as  a day’s  work  — in  bringing 
this  change  about,  Mayor  Hood  bore  a leading  part  — the  High  School  building 
on  High  street  was  dedicated  ; an  effort  was  made  to  preserve  Long  Beach  from 
the  encroachments  of  the  sea  by  planting  a line  of  red  cedars  along  the  ridge  ; 
the  excavation  in  Dungeon  Rock  was  begun  by  Hiram  Marble  ; a grand  recep- 


CITY  OF  LYNN. 


G3 


tion  was  tendered  to  Louis  Kossuth  ; and  the  sewing  machine  was  introduced. 
The  shoe  industry  was  in  a highly  prosperous  condition.  Largely  through  the 
efforts  of  Mr.  Samuel  Brimblecom,  who  died  in  1S50,  the  methods  of  carrying 
on  the  business  had  been  simplified  and  systematized,  and  the  manufacturers 
found  a ready  market  for  their  product  at  remunerative  prices.  The  total  valu- 
ation of  the  city  was  $4,834,843,  and  the  municipality  started  out  with  a debt  of 
$56,960. 


In  1852  Swampscott  was  set  off  as  a separate  town,  and  the  following  year 
Nahant  gained  her  majority.  The  following  years  were  uneventful  beyond  the 
ordinary  happenings  of  New  England  towns.  The  financial  depression  of  1S57 
rested  heavily  upon  rich  and  poor  alike,  and  during  the  struggle  to  regain  the 
ground  lost,  the  foundation  was  laid  for  the  great  strike  of  i860,  which  created 
a decided  sensation  throughout  the  country.  The  hanging  of  John  Brown,  in 
1859,  again  roused  the  slavery-hating  citizens  of  Lynn  to  a high  pitch  of  indig- 
nation, and  the  bells  were  tolled  at  sunrise,  noon  and  sunset.  In  i860  the  valu- 
ation of  the  city  was  $9,649,065,  population  19,087,  showing  a gain  of  50  per 
cent,  in  population,  and  100  per  cent,  in  wealth,  during  the  decade. 

In  1861  came  the  news  of  the 
fall  of  Fort  Sumter.  The  first  call 
for  troops  by  President  Lincoln  met 
with  a prompt  response  from  Lynn. 

In  five  hours  after  the  proclamation 
was  received,  two  full  companies 
were  armed  and  ready  for  duty,  and 
the  following  terse  dispatch  was  sent 
to  headquarters  : “ We  have  more 

men  than  guns — what  shall  we  do?” 

At  eleven  o’clock  the  next  day,  April 
1 6th,  they  left  for  the  seat  of  war. 

These  two  companies  — the  Lynn 
Light  Infantry,  Capt.  George  T. 

Newhall,  and  the  Lynn  City  Guards, 

Capt.  James  Hudson,  Jr. — were  at- 
tached to  the  Eighth  Massachusetts 
Regiment,  of  which  Timothy  Mun- 
roe,  of  Lynn,  was  colonel.  Capt. 

Newhall  is  still  among  us,  hale  and 
hearty,  and  wields  a pen  as  mighty  H0N-  george  hood. 

for  peace,  morality  and  earnest  living  as  his  sword  was  for  freedom  and  the  in- 
tegrity of  the  Union.  The  regiment  performed  honorable,  though  not  very 
bloody  service,  and  returned  after  its  three  months’  term  without  the  loss,  by 
death,  of  a man.  Meanwhile  the  war  spirit  had  kept  at  fever  heat,  and  enlist- 
ments went  rapidly  forward.  Throughout  the  war  Lynn  supported  the  Govern- 
ment loyally,  and  gave  of  her  men  and  means  without  stint.  Large  and  enthu- 
siastic war  meetings  were  held,  and  great  inducements  in  the  way  of  bounties 
for  volunteers  offered,  with  the  result  of  keeping  her  quota  more  than  full. 
During  the  war  Lynn  furnished  3,274  men  for  the  field  — 230  more  than  her 


64 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


full  quota.  Many  of  those  who  went  into  the  war  from  Lynn  in  private  or  sub- 
ordinate positions  rose  to  places  of  honor  and  distinction,  and  not  a few  who 
went  came  not  back.  Out  of  those  who  did  return  has  been  organized  the 
largest  Post  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  in  the  country.  Those  were 
Stirring  times  in  Lynn,  and  to  describe  the  great  war  meetings,  the  departure  of 
troops  for  the  front,  the  rejoicings  over  victories  achieved,  the  funeral  honors 
paid  to  slain  soldiers,  and  the  other  moving  incidents  of  those  memorable  days, 
would  require  larger  limits  than  this  volume  affords. 

Hon.  Peter  M.  Neal  was  Mayor  of  the  city  during  1862-5.  In  those  times 
the  duties  devolving  upon  the  chief  magistrates  of  our  cities  were  varied  and 
constant.  In  addition  to  the  routine  work  of  the  office,  there  were  the  added 
duties  arising  from  the  raising  and  equipping  of  troops,  the  general  oversight  of 
all  relief  operations,  and  the  many  questions  and  requests  coming  from  the 
friends  of  those  at  the  front.  During  the  four  years  of  his  administration,  he 
generally  worked  from  sixteen  to  eighteen  hours  a day.  He  was  indefatigable  in 
his  exertions  in  alleviating  the  suffer- 
ings of  our  soldiers  and  their  families, 
and  many  times  visited  the  army  and 
hospitals,  carrying  good  cheer  and 
messages  from  home  to  those  in  the 
field,  and  relief  and  comfort  to  the 
wounded.  After  the  close  of  the 
war,  for  many  years  he  continued 
his  care  and  service  for  the  soldiers 
and  their  families,  obtaining  for 
many  pensions  from  the  Govern- 
ment, although  he  would  never  take 
any  compensation  for  his  efforts. 

Mr.  Neal  is  a native  of  Maine,  and 
was  born  in  North  Berwick  Sept. 

21,  1S11.  His  parents  were  Quak- 
ers, and  he  received  his  education 
and  early  training  in  the  Friends’ 
schools.  After  leaving  school,  until 
1S50  he  was  engaged  in  teaching  in 
Maine.  In  that  year  he  came  to 
Lynn  and  engaged  in  the  lumber 
business,  in  which  he  still  con- 
tinues. HON.  PETER  M.  NEAL 

The  burning  of  the  old  City  Hall,  which  from  the  time  of  its  building,  in 
1S14,  until  1S32  had  stood  in  the  center  of  the  Common,  and  thereafter  on 
South  Common  street,  left  the  city  without  an  official  home  until  the  new  City 
Hall  was  completed  in  1S67.  The  new  building  was  dedicated  on  Saturday, 
Nov.  3°*  The  whole  day  was  generally  observed  as  a holiday.  The  dedicatory 
exercises  were  of  a very  interesting  nature,  consisting  of  addresses,  poem,  etc., 
and,  what  was  of  equal  interest  to  very  many,  a free  collation  in  the  basement, 
served  at  noon.  The  beautiful  structure  thus  dedicated  is  justly  regarded  as  one 


CITY  OF  LYNN. 


65 


of  the  chief  ornaments  of  the  city.  The  many  conveniences  for  the  transaction 
of  public  business  which  it  affords,  and  the  beneficent  influence  which  it  has 
exerted  upon  the  architecture  of  the  city,  have  made  it  worth  the  cost,  which 
was  about  $312?000*  From  this  time  on,  the  growth  and  development  of  the 
city  has  been  rapid.  The  shoe  industry,  which  from  the  earliest  times  had  been 
carried  on  in  the  little  shops  scattered  here  and  there  over  the  city,  had  been 
gradually  developing  toward  the  factory  system,  and  to  center  about  the  railroad 
station.  There  were  no  steam  engines  in  Lynn  at  that  time,  but  the  change 
taking  place  in  the  methods  of  the  business  rendered  them  a necessity,  and  they 
were  soon  after  introduced  ; and  during  the  few  years  ending  in  1S74  many  of 


LYNX  CITY  HALL. 


the  large  factories  were  built.  Business  was  good,  real  estate  rapidly  advanced 
in  price,  and  values  of  all  kinds  rapidly  expanded.  The  following  year  the  finan- 
cial crash  came.  Real  estate  declined  more  rapidly  than  it  had  risen,  failures 
were  numerous,  and  business  had  a blue  time  generally.  This  depression  lasted 
nearly  two  years.  The  recovery  was  gradual  but  healthy,  and  since  that  time 
the  growth  of  the  city,  while  being  measurably  rapid,  has  been  regulated  by  the 
demand  of  the  time  rather  than  by  any  speculative  movement.  The  shoe  busi- 
ness and  its  collateral  branches  has  steadily  expanded.  The  later  years  have 
been  prolific  of  labor  troubles,  and  the  inducements  held  out  by  various  country 
towns  have  caused  many  of  our  manufacturers  to  locate  a part  of  their  business 


66 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


outside  the  city,  where  they  hoped  to  be  free  from  disturbance  of  this  nature. 
At  present,  many  towns  in  Maine  and  New  Hampshire  receive  their  principal 
business  impulse  from  the  operations  of  Lynn  capital  and  brains  in  their  midst, 
and  hence  may  almost  be  looked  upon  as  outlying  wards  of  the  city  proper. 

The  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  settlement  of  Lynn 
was  celebrated  in  1879,  on  the  17th  of  June.  In  all  these  many  years  she 
has  enjoyed  a steady  increase  both  in  population  and  business  importance. 
Though  possessing  a large  water  frontage,  the  harbor  is  approachable  only 
by  a small  class  of  vessels,  the  channel  being  both  narrow  and  shallow. 
Yet  when  the  Lynn  yachtsmen  come  together  in  their  annual  regattas,  the 
harbor  presents  an  animated  appearance.  In  respect  to  her  harbor  she  has 


h 


been,  for  all  commercial  purposes,  less  fortunately  situated  than  some  of  her 
sisters  who  started  in  life  about  the  same  time  with  herself.  Yet  this  very  fact 
is  now  seen  to  have  contributed  largely  to  her  success.  Little  of  her  capital 
and  few  of  her  citizens  being  engaged  in  shipping  or  foreign  commerce,  the 
embargoes  and  blockades  resulting  from  our  numerous  wars  inflicted  very  little 
loss  or  hardship  here,  and  she  was  left  free  to  develope  the  peculiar  industry 
for  which  her  people  and  soil  seem  best  adapted  ; and  having  a home  market 
for  her  manufacture,  the  disturbances  at  home  and  abroad,  which  oftentimes  had 
a well-nigh  disastrous  effect  upon  many  seaboard  towns,  troubled  her  but  little, 
and  that  only  incidentally.  The  foundations  of  the  city’s  prosperitv  were  laid 
broad  and  deep,  and  consist  not  more  in  the  reputation  for  excellence,  finish 
and  cheapness  of  her  product,  than  upon  the  inborn  enterprise  and  ability  of  her 
manufacturers  and  the  skill  and  faithful  work  of  her  mechanics.  And  enough 
business  has  gone  from  Lynn,  to  escape  labor  troubles  and  take  advantage  of  the 
inducements  offered  by  country  towns,  to  make,  if  all  were  collected  together, 
another  city  of  almost  equal  size  and  importance  with  herself. 

The  census  of  1SS5  credits  Lynn  with  a population  of  45,867,  with  13,278 
polls,  a valuation  of  $28,459,243,  and  a tax  roll  of  $533,130.53;  7,144  houses 


CITY  OF  LYNN. 


07 


on  564  streets,  places  and  courts,  make  up  the  city.  A Police  Department 
with  44  patrolmen  guard  the  peace  of  the  town  ; a Fire  Department  of  five 
steamers,  one  chemical  engine,  four  hose  companies,  and  two  hook  and 
ladder  companies,  protect  us  from  conflagrations.  One  High,  seven  Grammar 
and  sixty-four  Primary  schools,  besides  numerous  private  schools,  provide  for 
the  education  of  our  youth,  and  the  spires  of  twenty-six  churches  point  the 
way  to  a better  life.  A free  public  library  of  32,000  volumes  furnishes  good 
reading  to  whomsoever  chooses  to  avail  themselves  of  its  advantages,  and  the 
social,  charitable  and  protective  associations  number  one  hundred  and  three. 
Connection  with  the  outer  world  is  maintained  by  the  Boston  Si  Maine,  Boston, 
Revere  Beach  and  Lynn,  and  the  Lynn  and  Boston  (Horse)  Railroad  Com- 
panies. Five  National  Banks  facilitate  our  business  exchanges,  and  two  Savings 
Banks  guard  the  small  savings  of  the  people.  It  may,  therefore,  be  asserted  that 
Lynn  is  not  only  a city  having  a history  and  a goodly  heritage,  but  also  is  pos- 
sessed of  all  the  advantages  and  appliances  of  a live,  modern  manufacturing 
town,  and  an  industry  that  is  destined  in  the  future,  as  it  has  done  in  the  past, 
to  keep  her  in  the  front  rank  of  the  sisterhood  of  the  cities  in  the  Common- 
wealth. As  we  pass  on,  we  shall  have  occasion  to  examine  many  features  of 
our  modern  city  more  in  detail,  and  to  get  something  of  an  idea  of  her  resources 
and  developments  of  her  social  life. 


BREAKWATER.  LYNN.  CHRISTMAS  1885. 


MT.  VERNON  STREET. 


i szriss 


CTTIE  beginnings  of  shoemaking  in  Lvnn  were  exceedingly  small  — u like  a 
f grain  of  mustard  seed,  which  indeed  is  the  least  of  all  seeds,  but  when 
f it  is  grown,  is  the  greatest  among  herbs.”  In  like  manner  has  the  shoe 
►{*  industry  grown,  until  our  goodly  city,  with  many  sister  communities  in 
the  Commonwealth,  and  New  England  as  well,  finds  shelter  u in  the  branches 
thereof.”  Probably  Philip  Kertland,  the  first  Lynn  shoemaker,  did  not  lay 
claim  to  more  than  ordinary  skill  in  the  art,  and  for  many  years  those  who  fol- 
lowed in  his  footsteps  were  content  to  do  as  he  had  done.  The  best  shoes  worn 
by  the  Lynn  dames  came  from  England  and  France.  Those  constructed  here 
were  made  of  neat’s  leather,  and  were  serviceable,  if  not  handsome.  The  sole 
leather  was  worked  with  the  flesh  side  out,  and  for  nearly  two  centuries  both 
shoes  were  made  on  the  same  last.  About  the  year  1670  shoes  began  to  be  cut 
with  broad  straps  for  buckles,  which  were  worn  by  women  as  well  as  men. 
Fifty  years  later  buckles  for  ladies*  shoes  went  out  of  fashion.  The  coming  of 
John  Adam  Dagyr  in  1750  gave  the  trade  of  shoemaking  in  Lynn  the  turn  and 
impetus  which  led  to  its  adoption  as  the  leading  industry  of  the  place.  He  was 
a thorough  workman,  and  produced  shoes  equal  to  the  best  made  in  England. 
The  Lynn  craftsmen  were  apt  scholars,  and  it  was  not  long  before  the  fame  of 
the  Lynn  shoe  had  spread  throughout  the  colonies.  The  little,  square  shoe- 
maker’s shop  became  an  institution,  and  fathers  and  sons  in  their  spare  hours, 
particularly  in  winter,  worked  alongside  the  journeymen  and  apprentices,  the 
number  working  in  a single  shop  ranging  from  four  to  eight.  In  the  years 


LEADING  INDUSTRIES 


09 


preceding  the  introduction  of  machinery  these  shoe  shops  had  become  very 
numerous.  The  shoes  were  cut  at  the  establishments  of  the  bosses,  and  given 
out  to  be  made  through  the  town.  The  uppers  were  called  “ shoes,”  and  the 
soles  “ stuffs,”  and  thread,  wax  and  everything  necessary  to  make  the  shoe  were 


PRIMITIVE  SHOEMAKING. 


70 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


supplied  by  the  bosses  with  the  shoes.  The  ladies  of  the  household  had  quite 
as  important  a part  in  the  work  as  the  men.  They  stitched,  or  bound,  the 
uppers  while  the  men  were  preparing  the  soles.  The  sewing-machine  made 
quick  despatch  with  the  time-honored  occupation  of  our  mothers  and  grand- 
mothers, but  Lucy  Larcom  has  immortalized  their  work  in  her  pathetic  poem  of 
Hannah  Binding  Shoes.  The  invention,  or  rather  the  perfecting,  of  the  McKay 


“Spring  and  winter,  Hannah’s  at  the  window  binding  shoes.” 


machine  in  1862  put  an  end  to  the  old-style  methods  of  shoemaking,  and  the 
modest  shoe  shops  which  were  scattered  all  over  the  town  were  gradually  turned 
over  to  the  uses  of  the  pigs  and  chickens,  and  the  shoe  factory  became  an  insti- 
tution. These  naturally  clustered  as  closely  as  possible  about  the  railroad. 
Mr.  John  Wooldredge  was  one  of  the  first  to  see  the  advantages  of  the  labor- 
saving  machines,  and  it  was  he  who,  in  1S52,  brought  the  first  sewing-machines 
to  Lynn,  and  ten  years  later,  first  applied  steam  power  to  the  manufacture  of 
shoes.  It  was  not  till  the  close  of  the  war,  in  1S65,  that  the  use  of  steam 
engines  in  shoe  factories  became  general.  With  machinery  came  the  minute 
sub-divisions  of  the  labor  of  making  the  shoe,  so  that,  in  place  of  the  three,  and 
possibly  four,  persons  who  would  once  have  performed  the  labor  upon  a shoe, 
the  work  is  now  shared  by  not  less  than  thirtv-four. 

No  more  interesting  trip  can  be  taken,  than  with  a competent  guide,  to  go 
through  one  of  the  large  shoe  factories  and  watch  the  processes  by  which  abstract 
particles  of  leather,  iron,  cloth,  buttons  and  other  things,  in  all  more  than  one 


LEADING  INDUSTRIES. 


71 


hundred  in  number,  gradually  come  together  in  the  form  of  a shoe.  Commencing 
at  the  basement,  one  finds  himself  in  a most  confusing  medley  of  brawny  men 
in  scant  clothing,  for  it  is  hot  down  there  at  all  seasons,  huge  machines  which 
run  with  a clatter  and  thud  that  suggest  great  power,  and  piles  of  leather  in  all 
stages  of  manufacture,  from  the  whole  side  to  the  soles  which  have  been  sorted, 
sized  and  tied  up  ready  for  the  making  rooms  above.  In  this  room  we  find  the 
stripper,  sole  cutter,  sorter  and  tier-up  ; and  one  cannot  help  wondering  if  those 
who  are  running  the  stripping  and  dinking  machines  are  as  indifferent  to  the  loss  of 
a finger  or  possibly  a hand  as  they  seem  to  be.  We  are  next  shown  into  the  cutting 
room  where  the  upper  leather  and  linings  are  prepared.  There  is  nothing  ex- 
citing here.  These  twenty  or  more  gentlemen  who  are  ranged  around  the 
room,  each  at  his  cutting-board,  work  with  a deliberation  and  care  which  is 
seen  in  no  other  part  of  the  factory,  but  necessary  to  faithful  work.  In  this 
room  we  find  four  more  divisions  of  the  work — i,  outside  cutter;  2,  lining 
cutter  ; 3,  trimming  cutter  ; 4,  dier-out.  Following  our  guide  we  mount  another 
flight  of  steps  and  find  ourselves  in  the  stitching  room.  The  energetic  clatter 
of  the  different  busy  machines  render  us  oblivious  to  the  conductor’s  explanatory 
remarks,  and  we  content  ourselves  with  watching  the  continued  evolution  of 
the  shoe  under  the  busy,  skilful  fingers  of  the  operatives.  The  uppers  pass 
first  into  the  hands  of  the  lining  maker,  then  to  the  closer,  third,  seam-rubber  ; 
fourth,  back-stayer  ; fifth,  front-stayer  ; sixth,  closer-on  ; seventh,  turner  ; eighth, 
top-stitcher;  ninth,  button-hole  cutter  ; tenth,  corder  ; eleventh,  button-sewer. 
On  casting  up  our  account  so  far,  we  find  that  twenty  persons  have  had  a part  in 
making-  our  shoe.  From  the  stitching  room  we  are  taken  to  the  finishing  room, 
where  the  bottoms  and  uppers,  which  have  thus  far  been  travelling  by  different 
routes  are  finally  brought  together.  In  this  room,  as  in  the  stitching  room  and 
basement,  everything  is  lively.  Men  and  boys  are  working  as  if  for  life  and 
scarcely  stop  to  bestow  a look  upon  the  visiting  party.  Racks  and  horses  filled 
with  shoes  in  all  stages  of  completion  fill  the  floor,  and  numerous  odd  looking 
machines  are  located  at  convenient  spots.  At  one  end  of  this  room  the  compo- 
nent parts  of  the  shoe  come  together  in  the  hands  of  the  stock-fitter,  whom  we 
number  twenty-one  in  our  list,  and  are  passed  from  hand  to  hand  until  they  ar- 
rive at  the  other  end  completed,  ready  for  packing  and  shipment.  From  the 
stock-fitter  we  watch  our  shoe  go  into  the  hands  of  the  laster,  who,  with  a 
dozen  of  his  fellows,  works  at  an  odd-shaped  bench.  Attention  is  attracted 
to  one  who  is  evidently  a veteran.  Taking  a preparatory  chew  of  tobacco, 
which  he  carefully  stows  away  in  one  cheek,  and  with  a backward  toss  of 
the  head  filling  the  other  with  something  less  than  a gill  of  sharp  tacks,  he  pro- 
ceeds to  last  our  shoe ; and  with  caring  for  the  tobacco,  working  the  tacks  one 
bv  one  to  his  lips  with  his  tongue,  and  dropping  an  occasional  emphatic  ejacu- 
lation as  he  drops  a tack  or  pounds  his  thumb,  his  mouth  is  kept  as  busy  as  his 
hands.  The  cutting  and  lasting  departments  of  the  shoe  factory  are  the  only 
ones  which  have  not  been  successfully  invaded  by  the  labor-saving  machines, 
and  these  are  about  the  most  important  in  the  factory.  Upon  the  good  judg- 
ment and  close  calculation  of  the  cutter  depend,  in  large  measure,  uniformity  in 
the  qualitv  of  the  product  and  the  profits  of  the  business,  for  no  degree  of  ability 
•or  foresight  in  the  management  can  counteract  the  ravages  of  a wasteful  cutter ; 


i 

,)l 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


II|!K 

• ■ ■ ; 


liilili 


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Eii 


WILLOW  STREET,  LOOKING  TOWARD  CENTRAL  SQUARE 


LEADING  INDUSTRIES. 


73 


and  upon  the  faithfulness  and  skill  of  the  laster  depend  the  fit  and  set  of  the 
shoe,  assuming,  of  course,  that  the  work  leading  up  to  the  laster  has  been  faith- 
fully done.  Hence  it  is,  that  good  lasters  are  always  in  demand,  and  their 
Union  has  maintained  a more  independent  position  than  any  other  organization 
connected  with  the  craft  has  been  able  to  assume.  Invention  has  now  turned  its 
attention  to  this  department,  and  a young  Lynn  mechanic  has  produced  a lasting 
machine  which  promises  to  be  successful,  though  it  has  not  yet  come  into  gen- 
eral use.  From  the  laster  the  shoe  goes  to  the  sole-layer,  whom  we  number  23  ; 
next  to  the  McKay  stitcher,  24  ; and  then  on  to  the  beater-out,  25  ; trimmer,  26  ; 
edge-setter,  2 7 ; liner,  28  ; nailer,  who  fastens  on  the  heel,  29  ; shaver,  30  ; buf- 
fer, 31  ; burnisher,  32  ; channcller,  33  ; and  the  shoe  which  started  as  a number 
of  abstract  particles  so  little  time  ago,  is  now  completed  ready  to  be  stamped  and 
placed  in  neat  paper  cartons  by  the  packer,  and  shipped  to  its  destination.  In 
our  enumeration  we  have  named  only  those  who  perform  the  most  important 
parts  in  the  making  of  a shoe.  But  in  the  different  processes  of  tanning  the 
leather  and  numerous  subordinate  parts  in  the  shoe  factory,  the  united  labor  of 
more  than  fifty  people  are  required  to  produce  a modern  pair  of  ladies’  shoes. 

The  shoe  and  leather  industry  is  found  clustered  as  closely  as  possible  about 
the  railroad,  and  in  the  44  shoe  district;”  the  most  of  the  buildings  which  are 
not  occupied  as  manufactories  of  shoes  or  leather  are  devoted  either  to  some 
branch  of  business  intimately  associated  therewith,  or  to  the  dispensing  of 
animal  comforts.  This  district  lies  almost  wholly  between  Liberty  and  Market 
streets,  and  Broad,  Silsbee  and  Mulberry  streets.  Some  of  the  finest  factories 
in  the  city  are  on  Willow  street.  Looking  down  the  street  toward  Central 
square  at  any  hour  of  the  day,  one  gets  a vivid  impression  of  the  busy  life  that 
constantly  throbs  through  this  street  and  the  great  artery  beyond.  On  the  right 
are  the  buildings  occupied  by  the  Lynn  Shoe  Supply  Co.  and  T.  J.  Little  & 
Co. ; on  the  left  the  factories  of  Keene  Brothers,  A.  M.  & J.  II.  Preble,  W.  A. 
Dole  & Whittredge,  and  M.  J.  Worthley  and  the  leather  firm  of  Lothrop  & 
Bowen.  Passing  Oxford  street,  on  the  left  are  seen  the  large  Tebbetts  factory 

and  the  fine  Mower  build-  ~ ... 

- y c 

ing.  Included  in  this  sec-  ^ ..  ■-  -r"  -?■ 

tion  is  the  large  building 
occupied  by  Morgan  & 

Dore,  on  Oxford  street, 
shown  on  page  seventy- 
nine.  This  enterprising 
firm  do  only  a portion  of 
their  business  in  Lynn, 
having  large  factories  at 
Pittsfield,  N.IL,  and  Rich- 
mond, Me.  Keene  Bros, 
also  do  a large  business  at 
Skowhegan,  Me.  Passing 
into  Central  square,  we 
get  an  animated  view  of 
that  busy  center.  On  the 


CHAS.  0.  PECKER 


FACTORY. 


right  is  the  large  Fuller  block,  occupied  by 


74 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Charles  D.  Pecker  Si  Co.,  who  also  have  a large  factory  at  Great  Falls,  N.  H., 
and  by  numerous  express  and  other  offices.  Many  of  the  buildings  on  the  square 
are  scarcely  appropriate  to  the  place  they  occupy,  but  in  the  march  of  progress 
they  will  doubtless  ere  long  be  replaced  by  more  comely  structures.  Mt.  Vernon 
street  is  occupied  by  some  of  our  most  enterprising  firms.  The  sign  of  L.  S. 
Johnson  on  the  corner,  and  the  name  of  F.  W.  Breed,  have  come  to  be  regarded 
as  landmarks,  and  the  whole  street  has  a substantial  and  prosperous  appearance. 
Exchange  street,  the  Pine  street  of  the  olden  time,  is  a busy  spot,  but  the  build- 
ings are  mostly  small  and  of  wood.  Union  street,  from  the  square  to  Broad 
street,  has,  during  the  past 
few  years,  taken  rapid 
strides  forward,  and  now 
some  of  our  strongest 
firms  and  best  equipped 
factories  are  located  here. 

The  Brown  and  Ingalls 
buildings,  on  the  left, 
were  the  first  brick  fac- 
tories on  the  street.  The 
Ashcroft  building,  on  the 
corner  of  Washington  and 
Union  streets,  is  a sub- 
stantial and  comely  struc 
ture,  and  some  live  firms 
are  located  in  it.  The 
firm  of  Shepherd,  Murphy 
Si  Co.,  who  occupy  the 
corner  store,  are  among 
our  most  enterprising 
young  concerns,  who  do 
a safe  and  constantly  in- 
creasing business.  The  central  square. 

firm  ot  John  S.  Bartlett  & Co.  occupv  the  large  building  on  the  opposite  corner, 
successors  of  the  name  and  fame  of  the  old  firm  of  B.  F.  Doak  Si  Co.  The  new 


Buffinn  block,  opposite  Washington  street,  is  a handsome  structure,  and  a de- 
cided ornament  to  that  section.  The  factory  of  Mr.  J.  N.  Smith  was  one  of  the 
first  large  buildings  built  in  this  section,  and  is  one  of  the  few  large  wooden  fac- 
tories now  remaining.  The  large  Alley  building,  near  the  foot  of  the  street,  is  a 
very  convenient,  well-equipped  block,  and  is  occupied  bv  Kimball  Brothers, 
who  also  have  a large  factory  in  Gardiner,  Me.,  and  the  firm  of  Charles  Buffinn 
Si  Co.,  a substantial  firm  of  long  standing.  Mr.  Buffiim  antedates  most  of  the 
shoe  manufacturers  in  Lynn  now  in  active  business.  Broad  street  was  at  one 
time  headquarters  for  much  of  the  business  done  in  the  town,  but  its  glory 
has  in  a measure  departed.  The  handsome  factory  of  V.  K.  Si  A.  H.  Jones, 
on  the  corner  of  Beach  street,  and  the  large  block  at  the  head  of  Buffiim’s  wharf, 
are  the  only  large  factories  on  this  street.  The  lower  end  of  Market  street  has 
always  been  identified  with  the  shoe  and  leather  industry.  In  the  cut  previously 


FADING  INDUSTRIES. 


THE  ASHCROFT  BUILDING,  UNION  STREET. 

Market  street,  besides  his  own.  He  has  always  taken  an  active  interest  in  the 
affairs  of  the  town,  and  served  one  term  as  mayor  in  1877.  Munroe  street  has 
several  large  factories,  notably  that  of  P.  P.  Sherry,  which  at  the  time  of  its 
erection  was  the  highest  building  in  the  city.  Mr.  Sherry  laid  down  the  prin- 
ciple, which  has  since  been  extensively  followed,  that  land  grows  cheaper  the 
higher  up  you  go  ; but  considerations  quite  as  potent  as  that  named  are  the  good 
light  and  freedom  from  dust  afforded  by  the  upper  rooms  in  high  buildings, 
which  is  essential  to  good  workmanship,  particularly  in  the  finishing  rooms. 
On  Oxford  street  is  the  handsome  new  building  of  D.  A.  Caldwell  & Co.,  occu- 
pied by  D.  A.  Caldwell  & Co.  and  J.  F.  Swain  & Co.,  erected  in  1885.  This 


shown  of  this  thoroughfare  in  1S20  are  numerous  tanneries  and  shoe  shops. 
The  Lennox  block  on  the  right,  and  the  Lancaster  and  the  Martin  buildings  on 
the  left,  are  substantial  and  commodious  structures.  The  large  blocks  of  facto- 
ries on  either  side  of  the  street  above  the  railroad,  erected  many  years  since  by 
Hon.  Samuel  M.  Bubier,  contribute  a fixed,  settled  aspect  to  that  section  which 
is  lacking  in  some  parts  of  the  city.  Mr.  Bubier  has  been  identified  with  the 
shoe  business  in  Lynn  for  a long  time.  He  was  formerly  an  extensive  manufac- 
turer, and  has  witnessed  all  the  changes  which  have  taken  place.  He  has  now 
retired  from  that  branch  of  the  business,  and  devotes  himself  to  the  care  of  his 
large  property  and  to  supplying  power  to  many  buildings  in  the  vicinity  of 


7G 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


is  one  of  the  best  appointed  factories  in  the  city,  and  in  the  design  of  the  front 
elevation,  more  attention  was  paid  to  architectural  effect  than  has  been  done  in 
the  plans  of  many  of  our  large  factories.  The  other  large  establishments  on 
Oxford  street  are  those  of  C.  S.  Sweetser  and  Aaron  F.  Smith,  and  the  hand- 
some new  building  erected  on  the  site  of  C.  A.  Coffin’s  factory,  burned  in  1SS5. 
Passing  out  Washington  street  we  come  to 
the  large  block,  recently  completed,  of  Val- 
pey  & Anthony,  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
city.  The  course  of  our  wanderings  has 
brought  us  nearly  back  to  the  point  of  start- 
ing, and  during  our  walk  we  have  inspected 
the  principal  part  of  the  shoe  district. 

The  list  of  shoe  manufacturers  in  Lynn 
number  one  hundred  and  seventy-six,  rang- 
ing from  single  individuals  manufacturing 

00  o 

in  a small  way  to  large  corporations  and 
firms  running  several  large  factories  and 
employing  hundreds  of  hands.  Nearly  all 
grades  of  women’s  shoes  and  slippers  are 
made,  from  the  cheapest  slipper  to  the  finest 
French  kid  boot. 

The  methods  of  transacting  the  shoe  THE  ALLEY  BU1LDING’  UN,CN  STREET* 
business  have  changed  quite  as  much  as  the  processes  of  manufacturing.  At 
first  a home  market  was  found  for  most  of  the  product.  Then,  after  the  coming 
of  Dagyr  and  the  improvements  in  the  workmanship  and  quality  of  the  goods 
which  he  introduced,  the  surplus  found  a market  in  Boston,  being  transported 

thither  in  bags,  boxes,  or 
in  any  convenient  pack- 
age, sometimes  on  the 
backs  of  the  bosses,  who 
walked  to  Boston  and  re- 
turned in  the  same  man- 
ner, but  more  commonly 
by  team.  After  the  close 
of  the  War  of  the  Revo- 
lution, the  business  be- 
came very  much  de- 
pressed, owing  to  the 
competition  of  shoes 
made  abroad.  The  mat- 
ter was  brought  to  the 
attention  of  Congress, 

V.  K.  & A.  H.  JONES’  FACTORY,  BROAD  STREET.  then  in  session  in  phila. 

delphia,  through  the  efforts  of  Ebenezer  Breed,  of  Lynn,  and  Stephen  Collins, 
a native  of  Lynn,  but  doing  business  in  Philadelphia ; and  a tariff  was  placed 
upon  foreign  shoes,  which  had  the  immediate  effect  of  reviving  the  industry. 
Thus  the  shoe  manufacturing  industry  was  the  first  to  be  taken  under  the 


LEADING  INDUSTRIES. 


protecting  wing  of  the  Government.  Mr.  Breed  subsequently  introduced  into 
the  city  the  manufacture  of  morocco  leather,  for  which  he  received  a vote  of 
thanks  from  the  National  Committee  of  Manufactures  and  Commerce.  He  also 
secured  the  establishment  of  the  Lynn  Post-Office  in  1793.  For  many  years  he 
did  a very  large  business,  but  late  in  life 
misfortune  overtook  him,  and  he  ended  his 
days  in  the  almshouse.  Much  of  the  man- 
ufacturing sixty  years  ago  was  done  by  Mi- 
cajah  C.  Pratt,  James  Pratt,  Nathan  Breed, 

Isaiah  Breed  and  Nathan  D.  Chase,  whose 
manufactories  were  all  on  Broad  street. 

Isaiah  Breed’s  office  was  in  his  dwelling- 
house  on  what  is  now  the  corner  of  Broad 
and  Exchange  streets.  For  many  years 
they  received  very  little  money  for  their 
goods,  but  took  their  pay  in  barter,  and  in 
turn  paid  their  workmen  in  orders  on  store, 
keepers  in  Lynn  and  Salem.  This  system 
kept  the  workmen  always  poor  and  in  debt 
and  in  1S42  they  rebelled  against  it,  and 
have  since  received  their  pay  in  cash. 

From  Boston  the  shoes  were  sent  South,  the  new  buffum  block,  union  street. 
and  for  many  years  were  sold  at  auction,  oftentimes  being  sent  thither  by  car- 
goes, the  first  full  cargo  being  sent  in  1S1S.  Between  1S20  and  1S29  this  was 
abandoned  and  the  jobbers  from  the  southern  states  came  hither  to  purchase, 

that  they  might  be 
able  the  better  to  select 
goods  suitable  for  their 
localities.  This  cus- 
tom is  still  kept  up  to  a 
degree,  but  twice  each 
year  the  large  manufac- 
turers send  their  sales- 
men west  and  south, 
who  bring  their  sam- 
ples to  the  attention  of 
every  dealer  whose  cus- 
tom is  worth  having. 
These  salesmen  are, 
with  rare  exceptions, 
voung  men  of  character 
and  proved  capacity, 

FACTORY  OF  C.  H.  ABORN  & CO.  AND  C.  W.  VARNEY  & CO.,  who  do  Credit  to  the 

broad  street.  industrv  which  they 


represent.  If  there  be  any  modern  tendency  in  the  trade  toward  a change,  it  is 
to  be  found  in  the  disposition  of  many  of  the  large  houses  to  sell  directly  to  re- 
tailers without  the  intervention  of  middle-men,  and  there  are  those  who  predict 


78 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


that  this  system  will  be  the  outcome  of  the  present  degree  of  competition  among 
manufacturers. 

Tanning  became  an  industry  in  Lynn  some  years  before  shoemaking  was 
introduced.  Francis  Ingalls,  who  came  hither  with  his  brother  Edmund,  chose 
for  his  habitation  the  pleasant  slope  which  leads  down  to  Swampscott  beach, 
and  on  Humphrey  street,  by  the 
brook,  built  his  tannery,  and  Alonzo 
Lewis  states  that  he  saw  the  remains 
of  the  vats  used  in  curing  the  leather. 

The  business  was  continued  for  many 
years  with  varying  success,  at  times 
highly  prosperous,  and  at  times 
leather  could  be  bought  in  other 
markets  cheaper  than  it  could  be 
manufactured  here  ; but  in  these  last 
years  the  bulk  of  the  business  has 
centered  about  Salem  and  Peabody. 

In  1S00,  through  the  efforts  of  Eben-  , 
ezer  Breed,  the  manufacture  of  mo- 
rocco leather  was  introduced.  The 
first  factory  was  established  by  Wil- 
liam Rose  on  the  south  side  of  the  ™e  lennox  block,  market  street. 
Common,  opposite  where  the  fountain  now  is.  This  industry  has  grown  with 
the  town,  and  now  is  only  second  in  importance  to  the  manufacture  of  shoes. 
The  manufactories  are  not  confined  to  any  particular  section  of  the  city.  The 
mammoth  establishment  of  A.  B.  Martin  & Co.  on  Market  street,  and  of  Henry 
A.  Pevear  & Sons  near  Boston  street,  are  among  the  largest  in  town.  Several 

large  concerns  are  located  in  Harrison 
court,  others  on  Munroe,  Broad  and 
Beach  streets.  The  large  factory  of  Lu- 
cius Beebe  & Sons,  on  Western  avenue, 
is  one  of  the  most  complete  establish- 
ments of  its  kind  in  the  East.  There  are 
twenty-seven  firms  engaged  in  this  branch 
of  manufacture,  and  the  product  finds  a 
market  in  nearly  every  shoe  town  in  the 
country.  In  addition  to  the  two  leading: 
branches  of  the  shoe  and  leather  industry 
already  mentioned,  there  are  many  others 
directly  contributory  to  them.  Among: 
them  maybe  mentioned  fifty-seven  dealers 
and  manufacturers  of  boot  and  shoe  soles, 
heels,  stiffenings,  &c.,  sixty-six  stitching- 
rooms,  twenty  dealers  and  manufacturers  of  findings  and  supplies,  thirteen 
manufacturers  of  boot  and  shoe  machinery,  besides  numerous  other  sub-divisiorfk 
of  the  business.  In  the  production  of  labor-saving  machinery  Lvnn  mechanics 
have  made  several  notable  contributions,  which  are  to  be  seen  in  every  well- 


D.  A.  CALDWELL  & CO.'S  FACTORY, 
OXFORD  STREET. 


LEADING  INDUSTRIES.  79 

regulated  shoe  factory.  One  of  the  latest  inventions,  and  one  which  promises  to 


MORGAN  & DORE’S  FACTORY,  OXFORD  STREET. 

become  of  great  practical  utility,  is  a lasting  machine  which  lasts  a shoe  perfectly 


LUCIUS  BEEBE  & SONS'  FACTORY,  WEST  LYNN 


80 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


EARLY  MORNING  VIEW  ON  UNION  STREET 


LEADING  INDUSTRIES. 


81 


in  the  time  a shoemaker  of  fifty  years  ago  would  be  getting  his  tools  together. 
Another  industry  inseperably  allied  to  the  manufacture  of  shoes  is  the  making  of 
wood  and  paper  boxes.  In  the  manufacture  of  the  latter,  machinery  has  largely 
taken  the  place  of  the  former  hand  processes.  The  improvement  in  the  style 
and  appearance  of  the  shoes  in  the  last  fifty  years  is  no  more  marked  than  the 
changes  in  the  manner  of  sending  out  the  goods  to  market.  It  was  a long  step 
from  the  bags  and  barrels  formerly  in  use,  and  the  neat,  and  often  highly  orna- 
mented, individual  carton  in  which  the  shoes  are  now  packed. 

The  factories  of  the  Thomson-Houston  Electric  Co.,  on  Western  Avenue  are 
among  the  most  extensive  works  of  the  kind  in  the  country,  and  give  employ- 
ment to  a large  number  of  men.  They  manufacture  supplies  and  machinery  for 
the  electric-lighting  companies,  and  their  products  find  a ready  market. 

The  general  business  of  Lynn,  aside  from  the  special  lines  of  manufacture 
already  described,  is  composed  chiefly  of  local  retail  trade.  The  section  of 
Union  street  above  Central  square,  and  of  Market  street  between  Andrew  and 
Essex  streets,  are  chiefly  given  over  to  this  branch  of  business.  Lynn  has  a 
number  of  large  firms  engaged  in  the  dry  goods,  clothing  and  house  furnishing 
business,  and  the  business  in  these  lines  is  constantly  increasing,  the  people 
being  able  to  purchase  about  as  advantageously  here  as  in  the  large  market  of 
Boston.  As  in  most  manufacturing  towns  where  wages  are  paid  weekly,  the 
rush  of  business  comes  on  Saturday,  and  no  more  animated  spectacle  can  be 
seen  in  any  city  than  is  presented  on  Market  and  Union  streets  on  any  pleasant 
Saturday  evening. 

Taking  all  things  into  consideration,  the  facilities  for  carrying  on  the  leading 
industries,  the  nearness  of  the  city  to  the  great  business  centres  of  New  England 
and  the  ease  of  railroad  communication  therewith,  the  excellence  of  her  home 
markets,  and  her  beautiful  and  healthful  location,  the  advantages  of  Lynn,  either 
for  business  or  residence,  are  surpassed  by  no  New  England  city. 


SLIDING  ROCK,  LYNN  BEACH. 


9 


^r£rm9ng 

HE  first  church  in  Lynn  was  formed  in  May,  1632,  three  years  after  the 


settlement  of  the  town.  In  the  order  of  church  organizations  in  the  Mas- 
I * sachusetts  colony,  this  was  fifth  — the  church  in  Salem  first ; next,  that  in 
T Charlestown,  which  was  afterwards  removed  to  Boston  ; next,  that  in  Dor- 
chester ; next,  in  Roxbury ; next,  in  Lynn.  All  the  churches  organized  prior 
to  that  in  Lynn  have  ceased  to  be  numbered  among  the  churches  of  the  Puritan 
faith  ; and  the  same  is  true  of  those  planted  before  it  in  the  Plymouth  colony. 
Thus  it  may  be  said  that  the  First  Church  in  Lynn  has  been  longer  on  the  ground 
where  it  was  originally  planted  than  any  Congregational  Church  in  America, 
and  the  claim  is  made  that  it  is  the  oldest  living  Congregational  Church  in  the 
world.  The  little  house  on  Shepard  street,  which  for  fifty  years  served  the  pur- 


house  finally  found  its  way  to  Harbor  street,  where  it  still  does  humble  duty  as 
part  of  a dwelling.  The  country  was  sparsely  settled,  and  though  the  church 
was  made  up  of  people  from  Lynn,  Lynnfield  and  Saugus,  the  little  house  was 
ample  for  all  requirements  for  half  a century.  The  Old  Tunnel  meeting-house 
stood  in  the  middle  of  the  Common,  and  was  the  center  of  spiritual  influences 


poses  of  a church,  was  a very  modest  structure, 


and  the  room  where  the  people  met  for  wor- 
ship has  been  aptly  described  as  “a  basement 
with  no  up-stairs,”  the  floor  being  several  feet 


below  the  ground  outside.  In  16S2  the  main 
jgjjg  portion  of  the  house  was  moved  to  the  Com- 


5^=-  mon,  and  was  metamorphosed  into  that  sin- 


THE  ORIGINAL  FIRST  CHURCH. 


gular  architectural  curiosity  known  as  the  Old 
Tunnel.  The  porch  of  the  Shepard  street 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES, 


83 


for  the  community  for  many  years.  Nearly  square  in  form,  with  windows 
somewhat  irregularly  placed,  and  the  bell-tower  on  the  center  of  the  roof,  it  at  a 
distance  must  have  borne  a striking  likeness  to  that  useful  article  whose  name  it 
subsequently  bore.  It  W'as  originally  built  without  pews,  and  permission  to 
build  them  was  granted  from  time  to  time  by  vote  of  the  town.  Each  person 
built  his  pew  according  to  a plan  of  his  own,  so  at  last  the  interior  of  the  church 
must  have  had  a sort  of  crazy-quilt  appearance.  This  house  kept  its  place  till 
1827,  when  it  was  removed  to  the  corner  of  Commercial  and  South  Common 


“ THE  OLD  TUNNEL.” 

streets,  and  remodeled.  Here  it  served  the  purposes  of  the  society  ten  years 
more,  when  its  new  church  on  the  corner  of  Vine  and  South  Com- 
mon streets  was  completed.  This  was  a commodious  edifice,  although  it 
might  not  be  set  down  as  a triumph  in  church  architecture.  On  the  afternoon 
of  Christmas,  1S70,  the  house  took  fire  from  some  defect  in  the  heating  appara- 
tus, and  was  consumed.  The  society  immediately  set  about  the  task  of  rebuild- 
ing. The  corner-stone  of  the  present  beautiful  structure  was  laid  on  the  10th 
of  the  following  May,  and  the  house  was  dedicated  on  the  29th  of  August,  1S72, 
with  appropriate  services.  It  is  interesting  to  note  the  steps  in  the  evolution  of 


84 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


SECOND  UNI  VERS  A LIST  CHURCH,  FORMERLY  THE  “ OLD  TUNNEL.” 


the  present  house.  Each  of  the  five  successive  structures  is  a suggestion  of  the 
attainment  and  prog-  . A ress  of  the  people,  both  in  material 

resources  and  in  some  /l  rB  A of  their  religious  ideas.  The  first, 
plain  and  bare,  without  stove  or  comfortable  seats,  was  not 

more  indicative  of  the  straitened  circumstances  of  the  set- 

tlers, than  of  the  ex-«  J K|  Hira  reme  revolt  of  the  Puritans  from 
the  showy,  ceremonial Bl  worship  of  the  Anglican  church. 

The  Old  Tunnel  shows  something 
of  the  returning  swing  of  the  pend- 
ulum, and  in  its  day  was  considered 


I,”  BURNED  IN  1S70: 


THE  FIRST  CHURC1 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES.  85 

quite  remarkable  as  an  architectural  achievement,  and  an  ornament  to  the  town. 
In  its  later  years,  however,  the  people  became  more  fastidious  in  their  tastes,  and 
discovered  that  their  historic  meeting-house  was  becoming  old-fashioned  ; 
soon  the  name  by  which  it  has  passed  into  history  was  applied  in  ridicule,  and 


FIRST  CONGREGATIONAL  CHURCH,  SOUTH  COMMON  ST. 

its  fate  was  sealed.  Each  of  the  succeeding  houses  shows  progress  in  the  like 
direction,  and  was  the  best  the  means  of  the  society  and  the  skill  of  the  times 
could  produce.  At  the  beginning,  when  the  membership  of  the  church  com- 
prised every  family  in  town,  substantially,  scattered  over  the  territory  of  .Saugus, 


8G 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Lynnfield,  Lynn,  Nahant  and  Swampscott,  two  pastors  were  required,  who,  in 
comparison  with  the  slender  means  of  the  settlers,  were  given  a generous  sup- 
port, though  Mather  remarks  : 44  The  ungrateful  inhabitants  of  Lynn  one  year 
passed  a vote  that  they  could  not  allow  their  ministers  above  thirty  pounds 
apiece  that  year  for  their  salary,  and  behold,  God,  who  will  not  be  mocked, 
immediately  caused  the  town  to  lose  more  than  three  hundred  pounds  in  the 
single  article  of  their  cattle,  by  one  disaster.”  They  were  not  always  so  poorly 
paid,  for  Mr.  Whiting  left  an  estate  as  good  as  six  thousand  dol- 
lars, and  had,  moreover,  educated  three  sons  at  Harvard.  In  course  of  time 
Mr.  Cobbet  was  translated  to  Ipswich  and  Mr.  Whiting  to  heaven,  and  Rev. 
Jeremiah  Shepherd  was  called  to  the  pastorate,  which  office  he  tilled  acceptably 
for  many  years.  It  was  under  his  administration  that  the  Old  Tunnel  was 
erected,  and  it  did  service  one  hundred  and  forty-five  years.  Shortly  before  his 
death  Rev.  Nathaniel  Henchman  was  installed  as  colleague,  and  after  the  death 
of  the  aged  pastor,  continued  as  sole  incumbent  of  the  pastoral  office.  His  pas- 
torate was  filled  with  bitterness  and  dissatisfaction.  He  died  in  1762.  Follow- 
ing him  in  the  pastoral  office  were  Rev.  John  Treadwell,  1763,  Rev.  Obadiah 
Parsons,  1784,  Rev.  Thomas  C.  Thacher,  1794,  Rev.  Isaac  Hurd,  1813,  Rev. 
Otis  Rockwood,  1818,  Rev.  David  Peabody,  1S32,  Rev.  Parsons  Cooke,  1S36, 
Rev.  James  M.  Whiton,  1865,  Rev.  Stephen  R.  Dennen,  1S72,  Rev.  Walter 
Barton,  1S76,  Rev.  F.  J.  Mundy, 

1SS5.  At  the  close  of  Mr.  Shep- 
herd’s ministry  the  church  was 
united  and  prosperous.  From 
that  time  until  the  time  of  Mr. 

Rockwood  the  ancient  society  had 
its  ups  and  downs,  mostly  the  lat- 
ter, and  during  the  pastorate  of 
Mr.  Parsons  the  church  was  re- 
duced to  five  male  and  twenty-one 
female  members,  caused  by  one 
hundred  and  eight  members  of  the 
church,  including  both  deacons, 
withdrawing  and  uniting,  with 
others,  to  form  the  First  Method- 
ist Church.  Under  Mr.  Rock- 
wood’s  earnest  ministry  the  tide 
was  turned.  Numerous  additions 
were  made  to  the  church,  and  its 
position  in  the  community  made 
much  more  creditable.  In  Rev. 

Parsons  Cooke  the  society  and  the  faith  had  a strong  and  earnest  champion. 
He  impressed  his  vigorous  personality  not  only  upon  the  church,  but  upon  the 
town,  and  under  his  leadership  the  church  was  placed  in  good  financial  condi- 
tion and  its  constituency  still  further  enlarged.  The  Washingtonian  temperance 
movement,  the  incident  of  the  Comeouters,  and  the  discussions  pro  and  con 
concerning  Methodism,  took  place  during  his  ministry,  and  in  each  of  them  he 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


S7 


bore  a memorable  part.  Like  all  strong  men,  he  had  many  devoted  friends,  and 
bitter  enemies  who  sought  in  every  way  to  undermine  his  influence.  lie  wielded 
a prolific  pen,  and  aside  from  its  controversial  spirit,  his  history  of  religious 
movements  in  Lynn  is  both  complete  and  interesting. 

The  First  Church  hive  has  swarmed  six  times.  First  came  out  the  West 
End  or  Saugus  Church  ; afterward  the  church  in  Lynnficld  ; then  came  the 
secession  of  the  majority  of  the  church  to  the  Methodists  ; afterward  the  church 
in  Swampscott  was  set  off  from  its  membership  ; and  later  still,  both  the  Central 
and  North  Churches.  And  aside  from  this  enumeration,  as  many  more  have 
gone  singly  from  its  communion  to  other  societies  in  the  place.  Despite  its 
years,  the  Society  is  still  as  full  of  vigor  and  life  as  any  of  its  children.  A com- 
plete history  of  this  church  would  be  a history  of  the  town.  In  the  early  years 
the  church  organization  was  substantially  the  municipal  body.  During  the 
Quaker  discussions,  the  church  was  the  principal  opposing  factor.  In  the  days 
of  the  Revolution  the  pastor  of  the  church  headed  the  committee  of  public  safety, 
and  in  all  the  lapse  of  )rears  no  influence  has  been  more  potent  in  shaping  the 
course  of  events  than  the  old  First  Church. 

The  Central  Congregational  Church  was  organized  in  1850,  chiefly  from 

the  membership  of  the  First  Church,  and 
their  first  church  building  was  dedicated 
December  of  the  same  year.  This 


to 

same 

and  beautified  in 
1864,  and  the  following  year  was  burned. 
The  present  handsome  structure  was 
completed  in  1868,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  convenient 


building  was  enlarged 


in 


I 

CENTRAL  CONGREGATIONAL  CHURCH  SILSBEE  ST. 


churches  in  the  city.  It  is  situated  on  the  corner  of  Silsbee  and  Mt.  Vernon 
streets,  very  convenient  and  accessible,  though  the  rumble  of  passing  trains  is 
sometimes  painfully  apparent. 

The  North  Church  was  formed  in  1870,  largely  from  the  membership  ot  the 
First  Church,  and  though  youngest  among  the  Congregational  churches  of  the 
city,  is  largest  in  point  of  membership  ; and  as  the  section  of  the  city  in  which  it 
is  iocated  is  growing  more  rapidly  than  any  other,  it  is  destined  to  continue  to  fill 
an  important  place  among  the  churches  of  Lynn.  The  pastor,  Rev.  James  L. 
Hill,  has  been  with  the  church  since  1S75,  and  is  the  oldest  in  office  ot  any 


8S 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


pastor  among  the  Protestant 
churches  in  the  city.  Mr. 
Hill  was  born  in  a home  mis- 
sionary cabin  in  Iowa,  and 
graduated  from  Iowa  College 
in  1 87 1, and  in  1875  from  An- 
dover Theological  Seminary. 
He  immediately  assumed  the 
pastorate  of  this  church,  to 
which  he  had  been  previously 
unanimously  called.  Under 
his  wise  leadership  the  church 
has  had  a steady  growth.  In 
1878  he  was  chosen  by  the 
Legislature  to  preach  the  elec- 
tion sermon,  which  was  done 
at  the  Old  South  Meeting- 
House.  In  1881  Air.  Hill  vis- 
ited Europe,  and  in  1SS3  was 
chosen  to  deliver  the  Alumni 
oration  at  his  Alma  Mater. 
He  was  active  in  promoting 
the  formation  of  the  Associa- 
ted Charities.  As  a public 
speaker,  Air.  Hill  has  few 
superiors.  His  relations  with 


NORTH  CHURCH,  LAIGHTON  ST. 
Lis  people  are  of  the  most  cordial  na- 
ture, and  he  has  declined  flattering 
calls  from  other  places  to  remain 
here,  it  being,  as  is  frequently  said, 
a love-match  between  him  and  his 
people. 

The  second  meeting-house  in 
Lynn  was  erected  in  1678  for  the  use  of 
the  Society  of  Friends,  and  was  situa- 
ted on  a spot  known  as  Wolf  Hill, 
on  Broad  street.  It  stood  in  front 
of  the  present  Friends*  burying- 
ground,  where  it  remained  until  1 723. 
The  next  house  was  built  near  the 
front  line  of  that  enclosure.  This 
structure  was  used  until  1S16,  when 
it  was  sold,  and  a more  commodious 
meeting-house  built  near  the  same 
place,  where  it  remained  until  1852, 
when  it  was  removed  to  its  present 


REV.  JAMES  L HILL. 


i 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


89 


location  on  Silsbee  street.  The  old  house  passed  through  various  hands,  and 
now  serves  as  an  office  for  the  lumber  firm  of  S.  N.  Breed  & Co.,  on  the 
comer  of  Beach  and  Broad  streets.  Now  this  location  is  being  improved 
by  the  erection  of  a more  commodious  structure,  and  the  little  historic  church 
will  doubtless  disappear,  though  its  timbers  are  as  sound  as  the  theology 
formerly  expounded  in  it.  The  society  at  present,  though  not  large  as  com- 
pared with  many  others,  is  active  and  flourishing  and,  after  the  custom  of  the 
sect,  has  several  ministers,  Micajah  M.  Binford,  William  O.  Newhall  and  Abi- 
gail C.  Beede.  Recent  repairs  have  much  improved  the  appearance  of  the 
church,  and  in  its  setting  of  trees,  has  a quiet,  retired  settled  look  quite 
appropriate  to  the  oldest  church  building  in  use  as  a church  in  the  city. 

Methodism  took  early  root  in  Lynn. 
The  Rev.  Jesse  Lee  had  introduced  this 
religious  system  into  Connecticut  in  1790, 
establishing  a number  of  classes  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Bridgeport.  The  following  year 
he  came  to  Boston,  where  for  a time  he 
labored,  with  poor  success.  Shortly  after 
he  came  to  Lynn,  on  invitation  of  Mr. 
Benjamin  Johnson,  one  of  the  foremost 
men  of  the  town.  The  time  was  propi- 
tious in  a marked  degree.  The  dissen- 
tions  which  had  crept  into  the  First  Church 
— which,  with  the  Friends’  Society,  had 
held  the  field  until  that  time — caused  the 
many  who  were  dissatisfied  with  the  exist- 
ing state  of  things  to  eagerly  welcome  any 
movement  which  offered  them  release.  Mr. 

Lee  came  directly  to  Mr.  Johnson’s  house, 
which  stood  on  Market  street,  on  the  pres- 
ent site  of  Exchange  building,  and  there 
the  first  Methodist  meetings  were  held,  whence 
the  house  came  to  be  called  the  “ birthplace 
of  Methodism.”  Mr.  Lee’s  coming  was  in 
February.  His  first  class  consisted  of  eight 
persons,  though  hundreds  flocked  to  hear  his 
preaching.  A week  after,  twenty-one  were 
added.  In  May  the  number  was  fifty-one. 

At  that  time  the  class  received  the  sudden  ad- 
dition of  one  hundred  and  eight  persons,  who 
“ signed  off”  from  the  First  Parish.  Soon  the 
large  dwelling-house  of  Mr.  Johnson  became 
insufficient  for  the  worshippers,  and  they  made 
his  barn  their  sanctuary.  The  society  became  THE  FIRST  M-  E*  church. 

prosperous  in  the  highest  degree.  Soon  the  society  outgrew  the  bam,  and  it 


90 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


was  resolved  to  build  a church.  The  first  Methodist  meeting-house  was 
built  on  the  site  of  Lee  Hall,  and  so  great  was  the  zeal  of  the  builders  that 
the  house  was  finished  so  as  to  be  used  for  worship  in  twelve  days  from  the 
commencement  of  cutting  the  trees  in  the  forest,  but  remained  innocent  of  laths 
and  plaster  for  a long  time.  This  little  house  had  no  front  entrance,  but  was 
approached  by  a door  on  each  side,  and  it  stood  so  that  its  front  projected  about 
eight  feet  into  the  street,  as  the  lines  now  run.  It  served  the  purposes  of  the 
society  until  1812,  when  the  Old  Bowery  was  built,  and  the  little  church  was 
removed  to  West  Lynn,  where  it  afterward  became  the  cradle  of  a Baptist 
church,  and  later  still  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Catholics.  The  new  church, 
with  numerous  additions  and  alterations,  held  its  place  until  the  present  beautiful 
edifice  was  completed  in  1S79.  This  building  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-three 

feet  in  length  and  seventy-three  in 
width,  with  a chapel  adjoining,  ninety- 
one  feet  in  length  by  seventy-three  feet 
in  width.  The  affairs  of  the  parish 
have  always  been  ably  administered, 
and  it  is  now  one  of  the  most  prosper- 
ous societies  in  Lynn.  Rev.  J.  D. 
Pickles  is  pastor. 

St.  Paul’s  Methodist  Church,  or- 
ganized in  1 81 1 , was  the  second  Meth- 
odist Church  in  Lynn,  and  was  the  first 
Methodist  Church  in  Massachusetts 
that  was  built  with  a steeple.  The 
comfort  of  worship  for  many  years  va- 
ried according  to  the  weather,  as  no 
stove  was  introduced  until  1S31.  In 
November,  1S59,  ^ie  h°use  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire,  but  within  nine  months 
the  house  now  standing  had  been  fin- 
ished ready  for  occupancy.  Rev.  W. 
R.  Clarke  is  pastor.  The  South  Street 
M.  E.  Church  was  organized  in  1S30, 
and  the  house  now  standing  was  erected 
the  same  year.  It  was  originally  a 
plain,  substantial  edifice  without  a 
steeple.  The  building  has  been  altered  and  beautified  until  it  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  churches  in  the  city.  The  pastor  is  Rev.  Samuel  Jackson.  The  Boston 
Street  M.E.  Church  was  organized  in  1S53,  and  the  church  was  erected  in  1853. 

1 he  building  has  been  enlarged  from  time  to  time,  and  the  church  is  one  of  the 
most  active  and  efficient  in  the  city.  Rev.  A.  McKeown  is  pastor.  The  Maple 
St.  M.  E.  Society  was  organized  in  1851,  though  religious  services  had  been  held 
in  that  vicinity  for  many  years.  Their  church  on  the  corner  of  Chestnut  and  Ma- 
ple streets  was  dedicated  in  1872,  and  is  a very  neat  and  convenient  edifice.  Rev. 
W.  B.  Toulmin  is  pastor.  The  African  Methodist  Episcopal  Society,  organ- 
ized in  1S56,  has  a very  comfortable,  though  plain,  house  of  worship  on  Mailey 


ST.  PAUL'S  METHODIST  CHURCH. 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


street.  Trinity  Church,  on  Tower  Hill,  is  the  youngest  of  the  Methodist 
churches  in  Lynn,  having  been  formed  in  1S73  as  a mission  enterprise. 
Rev.  Alonzo  Sanderson  was  appointed  pastor,  and  still  remains  with  the  society. 
The  church  edifice  on  the  corner  of  Boston 
and  Ashland  streets  was  dedicated  in  1S74. 

The  Methodist  Church,  both  in  number  of 
societies  and  in  membership,  outnumbers  any 
other  denomination  in  Lynn. 

The  First  Baptist  Society  was  organized 
in  1815,  but  the  Baptist  belief  found  lodg- 
ment in  Lynn  very  soon  after  the  settlement 
of  the  town,  not,  however,  without  encoun- 
tering decided  opposition.  As  early  as  1630 
we  find  Joseph  Rednap  being  brought  to 
book  because  he  could  not  accept  the  doc- 
trine of  infant  baptism,  and  for  the  same 
reason  Lady  Deborah  Moody,  a most  esti- 
mable lady,  who  owned  a fine  farm  in 
Swampscott,  was  so  beset  by  the  elders  of 
the  church  that  she  sold  her  property  and 
removed  to  New  York,  where  old  Governor 
Stuyvesant  received  her  hospitably.  In  1651 
three  men,  whose  names  were  John  Clarke, 

John  Crandall  and  Obadiah  Holmes,  came 
which  state  a degree  of  religious  liberty,  not  dreamed  of  in  Massachusetts,  was 

enjoyed.  They  went  to  the  house  of  William 
Witter  in  Swampscott,  where  Mr.  Clarke 
preached,  and  rebaptized  Mr.  Witter.  This 
being  reported  to  the  authorities,  two  constables 
went  down  to  Swampscott  and  arrested  them. 
That  night  they  were  kept  under  guard  at  the 
Old  Anchor  Tavern,  and  the  next  day  were 
sent  to  Boston  and  imprisoned.  Ten  day, 
afterward  they  were  brought  before  the  courts 
and  Mr.  Holmes  was  fined  thirty  pounds,  Air. 
Clarke  twenty,  and  Mr.  Crandall  five.  The 
fines  of  the  two  latter  we  re  paid,  but  Mr.  Holmes 
refused  to  pay  his  or  allow  it  to  be  paid,  and 
was  retained  in  prison  until  September,  when 
he  was  publicly  whipped,  receiving  thirty  stripes 
on  the  bare  back.  The  whip  was  made  of  three 
cords  with  knotted  ends,  and  the  record  has  it 
that  the  executioner  spat  three  times  on  his  own 
hands,  that  he  might  honor  justice.  And  in  a 
boston  sTRfc.tr  McThodist  church,  manuscript  left  by  Governor  Joseph  Jenks,  it  is 
written  that  “ Mr.  Holmes  was  whipped  30  stripes,  and  in  such  an  unmerciful 
manner  that  for  many  days,  if  not  some  weeks,  he  could  not  take  rest  but  as  he 


SOUTH  STREET  METHODIST  CHURCH. 

hither  from  Newport,  R.  I.,  in 


92 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


lay  upon  his  knees  and  elbows,  not  being  able  to  suffer  any  part  of  his  body  to 
touch  the  bed.”  When  he  was  released,  two  spectators,  John  Shaw  and  John 
Hasel,  went  up  and  took  hold  of  his  hand  to  sympathize  with  him,  for  which 
they  were  fined  forty  shillings  each.  William  Witter  was  made  of  different 
metal.  lie  was  presented  at  Salem  Court  for  his  connection  with  the  affair, 
and  the  following  record  was  made:  “William  Witter,  now  comeing  in, 
answered  humbly,  and  confessed  his  Ignorance,  and  his  willingness  to  see 
Light,  and  (upon  Mr.  Norris,  our  Elder,  his  speech)  seemed  to  be  staggered 
Inasmuch  as  he  came  in  court  meltinglie,  sentence — Have  called  our  ordenance 
of  God,  a badge  of  the  Whore — on  some  Lecture  day,  the  next  5th  day,  being  a 
public  fast,  To  acknowledge  his  fait,  and  to  ask  Mr.  Cobbett  forgiveness,  in 
saying  he  spok  against  his  conscience.  And  enjoined  to  be  heare  next  court  att 
Salem.”  After  this,  the  coming  of  the  Quakers  and  the  antics  of  the  witches 
kept  the  authorities  too  busy  to  attend  to  minor  matters  of  belief. 


In  May,  1815,  the  First  Baptist 
meeting-house  which  the  Methodist 
as  if  to  emphasize  the  change  of  sen- 
place,  this  house  was  placed  on  land 
Congregational  Church,  in  full  sight 
worship — the  very  church  which  had 
and  delivered  them  over  to  the  au- 
one  hundred  and 
This  building  had 
last  of  all  occupied 


Society  purchased  the 
society  had  vacated,  and 
timent  that  had  taken 
purchased  of  the  First 
of  their  own  house  of 
persecuted  the  Baptists, 
thorities  to  be  punished, 
sixty-four  years  before, 
a checkered  career,  being 
by  the  Catholics,  and  was 


'W 


FIRST  BAPTIST  CHURCH. 

burned  in  1859*  The  edifice  at  present  occupied  by  the  society  was  erected  in  1867. 
It  is  a commodious  and  comfortable  house.  Rev.  F.  T.  Hazlewood  is  pastor. 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


93 


The  Second  or  Washington  Street 
Baptist  Society  was  established  in  1S51. 
Sendees  were  first  held  in  Union  Hall  on 
Union  street,  and  in  1S58  the  church  on 
High  street  was  dedicated.  In  1S74  the 
beautiful  church  on  the  corner  of  Essex  and 
Washington  streets  was  built,  which  is  one 
of  the  finest  church  edifices  in  town.  The 
pastor  is  Rev.  Benjamin  A.  Greene.  The 
Third  Baptist  Society,  in  Wyoma,  was  or- 
ganized in  1858,  and  services  were  regu- 
larly maintained  until  1S76.  Since  then 


the  church  has  been 
served  by  supplies. 
The  East  or  Fourth 
Baptist  Society  was 
organized  April  21, 
1874,  largely  from 
members  withdrawing 
from  the  Second  Bap- 
tist Society  at  the  time 
the  move  from  High  to 
Washington  street  was 
made.  The  society  in 
the  month  of  October 
following  purchased 
the  church  property  of 
the  Free  Baptist  Soci- 
ety on  Union  street, 
and  is  now  know  n as 
the  East  Baptist 
Church.  The  pastor 
is  Rev.  Henry  Hinck- 
ley. The  Union  Street 
Freewill  Baptist 
Church  wras  organized 
Sept.  7,  1871.  After 
the  sale  of  its  church 
property  to  the  East 
Baptist  Society,  the 
church  on  High  street 
was  purchased,  and 
now  the  society  is  in  a 
very  prosperous  condi- 
tion. The  pastor  is 
Rev.  John  Malvern. 


WASHINGTON  ST.  BAPTIST  CHURCH. 


EAST  BAPTIST  CHURCH,  UNION*  ST 


94 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


The  Chestnut  Street  Church  was  formed  in  1857  by  the  Baptists,  by  whom 
worship  was  maintained  for  many  years.  The  church  building  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Chestnut  Street  Congregational  Society,  who  have  within  a year  repaired 
and  beautified  it,  and  the  society  is  enjoying  a career  of  prosperity  hitherto 
unknown.  Rev.  Jay  N.  Taft  is  pastor. 

The  Second  Congregational  Society  was  organized  April  5,  1822,  and  their 
first  house  of  worship  was  dedicated  the  following  year.  In  the  summer  of  1852 
the  church  edifice  on  South  Common  St.  was  enlarged  and  remodeled.  This 
is  the  only  Unitarian  Society  in  Lynn.  Rev.  Samuel  B.  Stewart  is  pastor. 


FIRST  UN  I VERS  A LIST  CHURCH,  NAHANT  ST. 

The  First  Universalist  Society  was  formed  in  1833,  though  Universalism 
had  been  preached  in  Lynn  alternately  since  1S11.  For  three  years  services 
were  held  in  the  Town  Hall,  and  in  1835  the  society  built  a church  on  Union 
street,  near  Silsbee.  In  1S50  this  house  was  enlarged  and  re-dedicated,  and  in 
1864,  to  meet  the  growing  demands  of  the  society,  the  house  was  again  enlarged. 
The  corner-stone  of  the  church  on  Nahant  street  was  laid  in  May,  1872,  and  the 
church  was  dedicated  Sept.  18,  1873.  The  tower  was  not  completed  until  1886. 
The  cost  of  the  church  and  site  was  $140,000.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  church 
structures  in  New  England,  and  an  ornament  to  the  town.  This  church  has 
had  a remarkable  growth,  and  has  had  some  verv  able  men  as  pastors. 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


1)5 


In  point  of  membership  and  the  number  of  people  directly  and  indirectly  con- 
nected with  it,  it  is  the  largest  Universalist  church  in  the  world,  so  far  as  is 
known.  The  Sunday  school  numbers  upwards  of seven  hundred.  Rev  .James  M. 
Pullman,  D.  D.,  pastor  of  the 
church,  is  one  of  the  most 
prominent  clergymen  of  his 
denomination  in  the  country. 

He  was  born  at  Portland, 

Chautauqua  Co.,  N.  Y.,  Au- 
gust 21,  1836,  and  graduated 
from  St.  Lawrence  Divinity 
School,  Canton,  N.  Y.,  in 
1 S60.  During  the  succeeding 
eight  years,  he  was  pastor  of 
the  First  Universalist  Church, 

Troy,  and  from  there  he 
went  to  the  Church  of  Our 
Saviour,  New  York  city, 
where  he  remained  until  he 
was  called  to  Lynn  in  1 885. 

During  this  long  pastorate  of 
seventeen  years,  he  made  a 
reputation,  not  only  in  the 
pulpit,  but  in  all  the  depart- 
ments of  church  work,  which 
placed  him  in  the  front  rank 
of  American  ministers  of  the 
Gospel.  He  has  a marked 
talent  for  organization,  and  in 
this  line  he  has  achieved  some  of  his  most  pronounced  successes.  During  his  pas- 
torate in  New  York,  the  Church  of  Our  Saviour  was  erected.  He  was  the  or- 
ganizer and  first  president  of  the  Young  Men’s  Universalist  Association  in  New 
York  city,  and  has  been  prominently  connected  with  the  leading  educational 
institutions  of  his  denomination  in  New  York.  Since  his  residence  in  Lynn, 
his  church,  always  a strong  and  active  organization,  has  largely  extended  its 
influence,  and  his  strong  personality  is  felt  in  each  line  of  effort  put  forth  by  the 
society. 

The  Second  Universalist  Church  was  formed  in  1836,  and  in  1839  ^ Pur“ 
chased  the  church  on  the  corner  of  So.  Common  and  Commercial  streets,  formerly 
the  Old  Tunnel,  which  they  still  occupy.  Rev.  John  C.  Mclnerney  is  pastor. 

The  Christian  Church  was  organized  in  1835.  The  first  church  was  built 
the  same  year  on  the  south  side  of  Silsbee  street,  next  to  the  railroad  bridge. 
In  1840  the  present  church  was  built,  and  in  18S0  this  was  remodeled  and  the 
tower  added.  Rev.  A.  A.  Williams  is  the  pastor,  having  been  with  the  society 
since  1877. 

For  two  hundred  years  after  its  settlement,  the  Episcopal  system  found  the 
New  England  atmosphere  uncongenial.  An  attempt  was  made  to  form  a 


REV.  J.  M.  PULLMAN,  O.  0. 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


96 


CHRIST  CHURCH. 


church  here  in  1819.  Services  were  contin- 
ued in  the  Lynn  Academy  for  some  two 
years,  when  they  were  abandoned.  In  1834 
a society  was  formed,  which  took  the  name 
of  Christ  Church.  Occasional  services  were 
held  during  that  year,  and  regular  service 
was  begun  on  the  first  Sunday  of  January, 
1835,  at  Liberty  Hall.  These  services  were 
continued,  with  little  interruption,  for  two 
years,  and  July  20,  1837,  a church  edifice 
which  had  been  erected  during  the  year 
was  consecrated.  This  modest  structure 
stood  on  North  Common  street,  between 
Franklin  avenue  and  Hanover  street.  Meet- 
ings were  maintained  until  1841.  In  1844  a 
reorganization  was  effected.  The  name  now 


INTERIOR  OF  ST.  STEPHEN’S. 

borne  by  the  society  adopted,  and  the  church  edifice  erected  in  1837  was  bought. 
This  house  served  the  purposes  of  the  society  until  the  present  beautiful  structure 
was  consecrated  in  1881.  This  edifice  was  the  gift  to  the  society  ofHon.  E.  Reding- 
ton  Mudge,  as  a memorial  of  his  son,  Charles  Redington,  a lieutenant-colonel  in  the 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


Union  forces,  who  was  killed 
at  Gettysburg,  and  his  daugh- 
ter, Fanny  Olive,  who  died 
July  3,  1S79.  The  corner- 
stone had  been  laid  on  the 
19th  of  May,  1880,  and  in  its 
construction  and  furnishing 
nothing  was  spared  that 
could  add  to  its-  beauty  and 
completeness.  The  walls  are 
constructed  of  reddish-brown 
sandstone,  with  facings  of 
brick.  The  style  of  architec- 
ture gives  a happy  combined 
effect  of  massive  solidity  and 
graceful  outline.  Viewed 
from  whatever  point  one  may 
approach  it,  the  impression 
received  is  pleasing  and  in- 
spiring, and  St.  Stephen’s 
Church  of  Lynn  has  come  to 
be  reckoned  amoii£  the  fa- 
mous  churches  of  the  country. 

The  interior  is  very  beautiful. 

Our  view  is  taken  from  the 
rear  of  the  main  audience- 
room,  looking  toward  the  chancel. 


E.  REDINGTON  MUDGE. 


98 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Mr.  Mudge,  at  whose  hand  the  society  received  this  costly  and  beautiful 
trust,  was  a son  of  Rev.  Enoch  Mudge,  a native  of  Lynn,  but  for  many  years 
resident  in  Orrington,  Maine.  His  business  talent  was  of  the  highest  order, 
and  he  used  his  large  fortune  as  a trust  to  be  administered  for  the  benefit  of  his 
fellow-men  and  the  city  of  his  adoption.  His  mental  qualities  were  such  as  to 
easily  place  him  among  the  foremost  in  any  company.  He  enjoyed  the  esteem 
and  respect  of  his  neighbors  and  friends  in  a marked  degree.  The  building  of 
St.  Stephen’s  was  regarded  by  him,  and  proved  to  be,  the  crowning  work  of  his 
life.  The  work  was  pushed  forward  with  his  whole  energy,  that  his  wife,  who 
was  an  invalid  and  not  expected  to  long  survive,  might  witness  its  completion. 
But  on  Saturday,  October  i,  just  as  the  work  was  nearly  done,  he  was  taken  ill, 
before  noon  had  died,  and  his  own  funeral  was  the  first  service  held  in  the  nearly 
completed  church. 

Rev.  Frank  Lou  is  Nor- 
ton, D.  D.,  is  the  Rector 
of  St.  Stephen’s  Parish. 
Dr.  Norton  was  born  in 
Norwich,  Conn.,  and  re- 
ceived his  education  in  the 

ley  Divinity  School.  He 
began  his  ministry  as  the 
assistant  to  the  Rector  of 
St.  Thomas’  Church,  New 
York,  and  has  been  himself 
Rector  of  the  Church  of  Our 
Saviour,  Longwood,  St. 
John’s  Church,  Troy,  and 
for  the  three  years  previous 
to  his  coming  to  Lynn  was 
Dean  of  the  Cathedral  at 
Albany,  N.  Y.  He  received 
his  degree  of  Doctor  of 
Divinity  in  1SS4.  Always 
fond  of  literary  pursuits,  he 
has  published  the  “ Priest’s 
Book”  and  “The  Excepts 
rev.  f.  l.  Norton,  o.  d.  of  Our  Lord,”  both  of 

which  ran  through  two  editions.  As  a preacher  he  is  earnest  and  scholarly, 
and  has  always  drawn  large  congregations.  Under  his  ministry  the  church 
is  enjoying  great  prosperity. 

The  Church  of  the  Incarnation  was  organized  in  1885  as  an  offshoot  from 
St.  Stephen’s  Parish.  For  the  first  few  months  the  society  worshipped  in  Tem- 
plars’ Hall  on  Market  street.  On  the  25th  of  September  the  corner-stone  of  a 
new  church  on  the  corner  of  Broad  and  Estes  streets  was  laid  with  impressive 


public  schools,  and  at  Trin- 
it) College,  and  the  Berke- 


99 

ceremonies,  Bishop  Pad- 
dock  and  other  leading: 
clergymen  assisting,  and 
on  the  2 ist  of  the  February 
following  the  congregation 
met  for  worship  for  the  first 
time  in  the  beautiful  stone 
chapel.  The  work  on  the 
church  will  go  forward  as 
rapidly  as  possible.  While 
the  society  were  still  wor- 
shipping as  a mission,  a 
call  was  extended  to  Rev. 
John  L.  Egbert  of  Vine- 
land,  N.  J.,  and  accepted 
by  him.  Though  yet  a 
chapel  of  the  incarnation.  comparatively  young  man, 

Mr.  Egbert  had  achieved  a reputation  as  an  energetic  and  efficient  worker.  lie 
is  a native  of  Missouri,  though  most  of  his  early  life  was  spent  in  Kentucky, 
lie  completed  his  education  at  Kenyon  College,  in  Ohio,  and  afterward  studied 
law,  being  admitted  to  the  bar  in  1870 ; but  a year  later  he  abandoned  that  pro- 
fession to  prepare  himself  for  the 
ministry,  and  graduated  from  the 
General  Theological  Seminary  in 
New  York  in  1874,  and  was  ad- 
mitted to  the  priesthood  in  1S75. 

From  the  time  of  his  graduation 
until  October,  1876,  he  served  as 
assistant  minister  of  Christ  Church 
Parish  of  Springfield,  having  spe- 
cial charge  of  the  Church  of  the 
Good  Shepherd,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river.  From  1876  to  1S81 
he  was  Rector  of  St.  Peter’s  Parish 
at  Bainbridge,  Conn.,  and  during 
that  time  the  church  was  enlarged 
and  beautified  and  greatly  strength- 
ened in  numbers.  In  the  latter  year 
he  went  to  Vineland,  N.  J.,  where 
during  the  next  four  years  he  or- 
ganized a strong  society,  and  se- 
cured the  building  and  furnishing 
of  a beautiful  stone  church.  He 
entered  upon. his  work  in  Lynn  with  the  same  consecration  and  energy,  and  the 
results  of  his  labors  are  already  apparent.  The  Parish  of  the  Incarnation  has  an 
ample  field  in  the  eastern  section  of  the  city,  and  a future  full  of  promise. 

The  first  Catholic  services  were  held  in  Lynn  in  the  year  1835,  and  there- 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


m7*  m'"~ 


100 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


after  at  intervals,  in 
various  private  houses, 
until  1848.  In  that  year 
Rev. Charles  Smith  was 
appointed  to  the  charge 
of  Chelsea  and  Lynn, 
who  fitted  up  a small 
school-house  near  the 
Arcade  for  church  pur- 
poses. Hewas  succeed- 
ed in  1851  by  Rev. 
Patrick  Strain,  the  pres- 
ent Rector  of  St.  Mary’s 
Church.  In  1854  the 
little  church  was  en- 
larged, but  in  1859  it 
was  burned,  and  for  two 
years  the  services  were 
held  in  Lyceum  Hall, 
which  stood  on  the  site  + 
of  Odd  Fellows’  block 
St.  Mary’s  Church  wa 
built  in  1861,  and  was 
at  that  time  the  finest 
church  structure  in 
Lynn.  The  society  have 
now  a large  and  valu- 
able property,  extend- 
st.  mary’s  church  and  school.  ing  through  from  South 

Common  to  Tremont  streets.  St.  Joseph’s  Church  on  Union  street  was  begun 
in  1S75,  and  has  but  lately  been  finished.  It  is  a large  and  handsome  gothic 
structure,  costing  upwards  of  $75,000.  Rev.  J.  C.  Harrington  is  pastor. 

The  following  table  contains  the  churches  in  Lynn  in  the  order  in  which 
they  were  organized  : 

First  Church 1632 

Friends*  Church 1698 

First  M.  E.  Church 1791 

St.  Paul’s  M.  E.  Church 1811 

First  Baptist  Church 1816 

Second  Congregational  (Unitarian)  Church  1822 

Maple  Street  Methodist  Society 1829 

South  Street  M.  E.  Church 1830 

First  Universnlist  Society 1833 

St.  Mary’s  Catholic  Church 1835 

Christian  Church 1835 

St.  Stephen’s  Episcopal 1836 

Second  Universalist  Church 1836 

Lynn  lias,  accordingly,  one  church  to  each  eighteen  hundred  inhabitants. 
The  time  has  gone  by  when  people  were  haled  to  court  if  they  would  not  attend 
service  in  the  church,  and  those  who  nodded  a sleepy  assent  to  sermons  which 
they  could  not  keep  awake  to  hear  were  rudely  awakened  by  a prod  from  the 


Central  Congrenational  Church 1850 

Washington  Street  Baptist  Church  . . . .1852 


Boston  Street  M.  E.  Church 1853 

African  M.  E.  Church 1856 

Third  Baptist  Church  (Wyoma) 1858 

Chestnut  Street  Church 1868 

North  Congregational  Church 1870 

Freewill  Baptist  Church 1871 

Trinity  M.  E.  Church 1873 

East  or  Fourth  Baptist  Society 1874 

St.  Joseph’s  Catholic  Church 1875 


Church  of  the  Incarnation,  Episcopal  . . 1885 


■ ■■ 


AMONG  THE  CHURCHES. 


101 


pole  of  the  tithingman.  Nevertheless  the  churches  in  Lynn  afford  ample 
accommodation  for  all  who  may  desire  to  worship,  and  in  the  nine  denomina- 
tions represented  it  would  seem  that  all  shades  of  religious  belief  might  find 
agreeable  surroundings.  Most  of  the  churches  are  situated  on  the  44  fay  re 
plaine”  which  lies  in  semi-circular  form  around  the  central  cliff,  and  are  for 
the  most  part  convenient  to  the  principal  centres  of  population.  Nearly  all 
have  bells,  the  St.  Stephen’s  tower  containing  a fine  chime  placed  there  within 
the  year,  and  the  mellow  harmony  of  the  vesper  calls  are  still  44  borne  on  the 
evening  winds  across  thecrimson  twilight,”  even  as  they  were  carried  in  days  gone 
bv  to  the  summer  home  of  Longfellow  at  Nahant,  calling  into  being  the  following 
beautiful  lines  : 

O curfew  of  the  setting  sun ! O Hells  of  Lynn  ! 

O requiem  of  the  dying  day  ! O Bells  of  Lynn  ! 

From  the  dark  belfries  of  yon  cloud-cathedral  wafted, 

Your  sounds  aerial  seem  to  float,  O Bells  of  Lynn  ! 

Borne  on  the  evening  wind  across  the  crimson  twilight, 

O’er  land  and  sea  they  rise  and  fall,  ()  Bells  of  Lynn! 

The  fisherman  in  his  boat,  far  out  beyond  the  headland, 

Listens,  and  leisurely  rows  ashore,  O Bells  of  Lynn  ! 

Over  the  shining  sands  the  wandering  cattle  homeward 
Follow  each  other  at  your  call,  O Bells  of  Lynn  ! 

The  distant  lighthouse  hears,  and  with  his  flaming  signal 
Answers  you,  passing  the  watchword  on,  O Bells  of  Lynn ! 

And  down  the  darkening  coast  run  the  tumultous  surges. 

And  clap  their  hands,  and  shout  to  you,  O Bells  of  Lynn ! 

Till  from  the  shuddering  sea,  with  your  wild  incantations, 

Ye  summon  up  the  spectral  moon,  O Bells  of  Lynn ! 

And  startled  at  the  sight,  like  the  wierd  woman  of  Endor, 

Ye  cry  aloud,  and  then  are  still,  O Bells  of  Lynn ! 


V 


F all  the  places  I have  seen,”  said  a Lynn 
man,  lately  returning  from  a European  trip, 
“ there  is  none  which  is  more  beautifully 
situated  or  possesses  more  natural  advantages 
as  a place  of  residence  than  our  own  city.” 
Making  all  allowances  for  the  natural  parti- 
ality of  a person  for  the  place  of  his  birth,  the 
sentiment  will  find  a response  in  the  heart  of  every  oqe  who  has  gained  a full 
acquaintance  with  Lynn  and  her  Surroundings. 


MAP  OF  LYNX  AS  IT  WAS  FIFTY  YEARS  AGO. 


_ 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN. 


103 


Thus  far  our  attention  has  been  devoted  to  historical  matters  and  to  many 
things  relating  to  the  business  and  social  life  of  the  city.  As  we  turn  now  from 
these  to  obtain  some  glimpses  of  those  parts  of  the  town  where  our  people  have 
their  homes,  let  us  pause  for  a second  look  at  the  town  as  it  was  fifty  years 
ago  when  there  was  no  distinctively  business  section  and  the  “ shoe  district  ” 
invaded  almost  every  man’s  door-yard.  Then  every  street  was  a residence  street 
and  many  of  the  places  now  covered  by  busy  factories  or  beautiful  residences 
were  cultivuted  as  farms  or  still  unreclaimed  from  the  rocks  and  bushes.  In  no 
way  can  a more  vivid  idea  of  the  changes  wrought  by  fifty  years  be  gained  than 
by  contrasting  this  plan  of  the  modest  town,  with  its  less  than  fifty  streets,  with 
a map  of  the  modern  city  with  its  five  hundred  and  sixty-five  streets,  lanes  and 
courts.  It  was  along  those  streets  that  the  Quakers  were  dragged  at  the  cart’s 
tail,  and  the  witches  hurried  toward  the 
keeping  house  until  they  could  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  jail  at  Salem  or  Boston.  It  was 
from  that  town  that  the  minute  men  marched 
to  the  battles  of  Lexington  and  Bunker  Ilill, 
and  there  Moll  Pitcher  practiced  her  magic 
arts.  There  are  but  few  relics  of  those  times 
still  remaining.  Many  of  our  readers  will  re- 
call the  old  shed,  shown  in  the  initial  to  this 
chapter,  which  stood  on  the  wharf  at  West 
Lynn,  when  the  oldest  citizen  now  living  was  a 
boy.  For  many  years  it  seemed  to  totter  upon 
its  aged  supports,  and  in  1885  it  finally  collapsed. 

Waite’s  well  on  Maple  street  is  one  of  the  old 
landmarks  and  one  can  almost  hear  the  creak  of 
the  sweep  and  hear  the  splash  of  the  bucket, 
as — 

“Quick  to  the  white  pebbled  bottom  it  fell; 

Then  soon  with  the  emblem  of  truth  overflowing 

And  dripping  with  coolness  it  rose  from  the  well.” 

The  old  Johnson  homestead,  which  stood  on  the  site  of  City  Hall,  was  re- 
moved to  Washington  street, 
when  it  found  itself  in  the 
way  of  the  march  of  prog- 
ress, and  i:i  its  new  dress 
looks  sufficiently  modern ; 
but  the  old  “blue  tavern,” 
which  stood  a little  farther 
toward  Franklin  street,  still 
retains  its  old  form  in  its 
new  location  on  Liberty 
street,  where  it  does  humble 
duty  as  a tenement.  It 
would  be  pleasant  to  go  on 
searching  out  these  relics  of 


WAITE’S  WELL. 


THE  BLUE  TAVERN. 


LYNN  COMMON,  FROM  CITY  HALL  TOWER 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN 


105 


LOOKING  DOWN  MARKET  STREET  FROM  CITY  HALL  SQUARE. 

a time  gone  by,  but  things  of  more  living  interest  claim  the  attention. 

The  City  Hall  tower  offers  a fine  vantage  ground  from  which  to  obtain  a view 


THE  ROLAND  G.  USHER  HOMESTEAD,  CITY  HALL  SQUARE. 


106 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


of  West  Lynn  and  the  Common,  and  we  get  a better  idea  of  the  general  appear- 
ance of  the  western  part  of  the  city  from  this  point  than  from  any  other.  In  the 


soldiers’  monument,  city  hall  square. 
early  days,  before  the  railroad  and  the  shoe  machines  overturned  the  old  ways, 
the  vicinity  of  the  Common  was  about  the  busiest 
section  of  the  town,  with  the  Old  Tunnel  Meet- 


FROG  POND  ON  TIIE  COMMON. 

ing-House  in  the  center  of  the  Com- 
mon, and  the  1 own  House  on  South  Common  street, 
and  banks,  shoe  shops  and  stores  located  here  and 
theie.  1 he  lower  end  of  the  Common,  with  its 

pleasant  walks  and  beautiful  flowers,  is  a very  attractive  spot,  and  the  western 
end,  w ith  its  flashing  fountain,  roomy  stand  and  broad  campus,  offers  a cool  and 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN 


107 


pleasant  place  for  band  concerts,  with  which  the  city  entertains  the  people  on 
pleasant  summer  evenings,  and  open-air  meetings,  which  are  frequently  held  ; 


MARKET  SQUARE,  WEST  LYNN. 

and  here  Young  America  gathers  as  one  boy  on  Fourth  of  July  evening  to  see 
the  fireworks. 

The  Soldiers’  Monument  in  City  Hall  square  was  erected  in  1873,  and  dedica- 
ted on  the  17th  of  November.  The  design  was  by  John  A.  Jackson,  a native  of 


THE  COMMON,  FROM  MARKET  SQUARE. 

Maine,  but  resident  of  Florence,  Italy,  and  the  casting  was  executed  in  Munich. 
The  cost  was  $30,000.  The  monument  is  not  as  showy  in  design  as  are  many 
of  its  class,  butit  is  chaste  and  in  good  taste,  and  adapted  to  the  place  where  ,t 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


stands.  The  homestead  of  Roland  G.  Usher,  which  faces  the  monument,  is  one 
of  the  last  remaining  of  the  older  residences  which  once  were  numerous  in  this 
locality.  Its  neighbors  on  Market  street  and  the  opposite  side  of  the  square 
have  been  swept  away  by  the  tide  of  improvement.  At  the  opposite  end  of  the 
Common  is  Market  square,  which  received  its 
name  before  Central  square  was  dreamed  of  as 
a business  centre.  At  one  time  it  was  the  center 


LOOKING  UP  MALL  STREET. 

of  considerable  business,  which  has  now  mostly  moved  down  town.  In  1646  the 
General  Court  voted,  u on  the  motion  of  the  Deputies  of  the  towne  of  Linne  : It  is  or- 
dered that  there  shal  be  once  a weeke  a Market  kept  there  on  every  third  day  of  the 
weeke,  being  their  lecture  day.”  Market  square  was  then  a part  of  the  Common, 
but  as  the  lecture  was  held  at  the  church  on  Shepard  street,  it  is  likely  that  the 
gathering  of  the  people  for  trading  would  be  near  by  on  the  Common,  and  pos- 
sibly the  modern  name  is  a leg- 
end of  the  meetings  of  two  hun- 
dred years  ago.  From  the  east 
end  of  the  square  we  get  a view 
up  the  Common  which  is  sugges- 
ted in  the  preceding  picture. 
Looking  at  the  Common  from 
whatever  standpoint,  it  gives 
the  impression  of  roominess  and 
invites  to  freedom  and  rest, 
though  latterly  the  “please  keep 
of!'  the  grass”  sign  has  put  in 
its  appearance.  Looking  up 
Mall  from  Boston  street  we  get 
a pleasant  glimpse  of  the  street 
dence  of  John  T.  Moulton  on 
one  of  the  oldest  streets  in  the 
the  vicinity  was  a part  of  the 
settlers  of  Lynn,  and  who  led  a 
Anchor  Tavern  for  many  years 


and  the  fine  resi- 
the  left.  This  is 

town.  The  land  in  breed’s  pond. 

farm  of  Joseph  Armitage,  one  of  the  earlier 
checkered  career  as  the  landlord  of  the  famous 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN. 


100 


afterward.  Mall  street  leads  us  into  Boston  street,  which  is  also  one  of  the  historic 
streets,  and  many  pleasant  residences  on  this  old-time  thoroughfare  date  back  to 
the  time  when  history  verges  upon  romance.  Back  of  Boston  street  are  many 
pleasant  short  streets  which  run  close  up  to  the  range  of  rocky  hills  which  skirt  the 


RESIDENCE  OF  JUDGE  NEWHALL,  WALNUT  STREET. 


town.  On  the  sides  of  these  hills  are  many  beautiful  residences,  and  their  elevated 
position  not  only  places  them  beyond  the  dust  and  noise  of  the  city,  but  affords  a 
charming  outlook  over  the  roofs  of  their  neighbors  below.  One  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque is  the  stone  cottage  of  Judge  James  R.  Newhall  on  Walnut  street.  The 
views  from  the  piazzas  of  this  charming  place  are  among  the  finest  in  the  city.  Not 
far  toward  the  west  is  Myrtle  street,  which  merges  into  Dungeon  avenue,  leading 
by  Breed’s  Pond  into  the  woods  and  on  to  Dungeon  Rock,  which  we  visited  in 
an  earlier  chapter.  Breed’s  Pond,  which,  if  it  were  not  for  the  dam,  would 
scarcely  be  a pond  at  all,  is  nevertheless  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  many 


110 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


ft 


pretty  little  lakes  which  are  so  numerous 
around  Lynn.  And  our  interest  in  it  as  the 
source  of  our  water  sup- 
ply is  considerably 


heightened  by  the  score 


or  more 


vounsrsters 


who  each  summer  day 
resort  to  its  shores,  not 
always  to  fish.  But  the  water 
with  which  it  furnishes  the  city  is 
entrance  to  pine  grove  cemetery,  abundant  and  reasonably  pure. 
Indeed,  the  excellence  of  the  water  in  and  about  Lynn  early  attracted  the  attention  of 
the  settlers,  and  William  Wood,  author  of  New  England’s  Prospect,  says  : “It 
isfarr  different  from  the  waters  of  England,  being  not  so  sharp,  but  of  a fatty  sub- 
stance, and  of  a more  jettie  color  ; it  is  thought  there  can  be  no  better  water  in  the 
world  ; yet  dare  I not  prefer  it  before  goodbeere,  as  some  have  done  ; but  any  man 
will  choose  it  before  bad  beere,  whey  or  buttermilk.”  lie  had  doubtless  tasted  of 

some  of  the  numerous  springs  which 
now  receive  the  added  dignity  of  being 
called  mineral  springs.  There  are 
many  in  our  day  who  not  only  agree 
with,  but  practice 
the  doctrine  of  the 
old  historian. 


THE  GARDEN  IN  PINE  GROVE  CEMETERY. 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN. 


Ill 


Near  the  north  end  of  Grove  street  is  Lover’s  Leap,  a beautiful  elevation 
one  hundred  and  thirty-three  feet  in  height;  and  half  a mile  west  is  Pine  Hill, 
two  hundred  and  twenty- 
four  feet  high.  From  the 
summits  of  these  elevations 
a beautiful  prospect  opens 
to  the  view,  second  only 

to  that  obta i ned  fn >m  High  /S,- \a^S6*51 

Rock.  Returning  down 
Washington  street,  we  pass 
many  pleasant  residences 
embowered  among  the 
at  the  junction  of 
and  Western  ave- 
straight  course 

of  winter,  the  own-  ” -----  i--- 

friendly  contests  to  lover’s  leap. 

Many  of  our  younger  citizens  remember  the  time  when  they  trooped  over  the 
Johnson  pasture-fence  to  the  circus-field  in  the  days  when  Washington  street 
existed  not  even  in  the  dream  of  a real  estate  speculator.  Now  the  view 


trees,  and  standing 
Washington  street 
nue,  we  look  down  the 
where,  in  the  crisp  days 
ers  of  fast  horses  try  titles  in 
the  music  of  jingling  bells. 


john  w.  healey’s  residence,  Washington  st. 


112 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


clown  the  street  discovers  a constant  succession  of  beautiful  residences,  but 
very  few  vacant  lots  remaining,  and  these  may  not  be  so  long,  for  houses 
spring  up  quickly  in  these  days. 


CORNER  OF  WESTERN  AVENUE  AND  WASHINGTON  STREET. 

Highland  Square  is  one  of  the  pleasant  places  of  Lynn  and  offers  many 
advantages  as  a place  of  residence,  not  the  least  among  which  are  the  good 
air  and  the  convenience  to  the  business  section  of  the  city.  Essex  street,  of 
which  the  square  forms  a part,  was  for  many  years  the  thoroughfare  between 


VIEW  DOWN  WASHINGTON  STREET. 


Lynn  and  Salem,  and  its  devious  direction  points  backward  to  the  time  when  streets 
were  only  “ roads  ” and  were  laid  out  for  the  convenience  of  the  scattered  commu- 
nity rather  than  by  any  system  of  squares  and  right  angles.  There  are  many  pleas- 
ant residences  on  Highland  Square,  and  when  the  city  has  arrived  at  the  point 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN. 


113 


of  a new  High  School  building  this  locality  will  receive  a substantial  ornament. 
At  the  upper  side  of  the  square  we  take  the  steps  which  lead  up  to  the  pleasant 
stone  cottage  of  J.  W.  Hutchinson,  which  nestles  at  the  very 
base  of  old  High  Rock.  Mr.  Jesse  Hutchinson,  one  of  the 
famous  family  of  singers,  built  this  cottage  in  1847.  He 
was  one  of  the  pioneers  into  the  highlands,  and  the 
pretty  cottage  with  its  picturesque  surroundings,  and 
the  interesting  memories  of  the  band  of  sweet  singers — 


HIGHLAND  SQUARE. 


Jesse,  Judson,  John,  Asa  and  Abbie,  who  in  their  day 

sang  their  way  into  the  hearts  of  the  northern  people — which 

cluster  around  it,  render  this  to  the  stranger,  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  in 

Lynn.  The  house  is  now  occupied  by  Mr.  J.  W.  Hutchinson,  the  last  sur- 


RESIDENCE  OF  S.  C.  NEWHALL,  HIGHLAND  SQUARE 


114 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


viving  brother  of  the  old  time  favorites.  While  so  near  we  can  not  forbear 

taking  one  more  view  from  the  summit  of  the  rock, 
breathing  a thank  offering,  as  we  climb  the  stairs,  to 

the  Hutchinson  who 
placed  them  there. 
The  Highlands  dis- 
trict during  the  last 
ten  years  has  been 
filling  up  rapidly, 
and  is  becoming  one 
of  the  most  desirable 
iijrjswnas-  sections  of  the  city 
for  residence.  Hon. 
HUTCHINSON  COTTAGE.  JameS  N.  Buffiim 

and  Mr.  Henry  A.  Breed  were  among  the  first  to 
undertake  the  work  of  opening  up  these  lands,  which  has  been  rapidly  pushed 
during  the  last  few  years.  High  Rock  avenue  was  one  of  the  first  streets  opened, 
and  soon  after  High  Rock  street  and  Herbert  street  were  built.  The  residence 
of  A.  B.  Martin  on  High  Rock  avenue  and  the  recently  completed  house  of 
Mr.  Buffiim  on  Herbert  street  are  among  the  finest  places  in  the  city.  Beacon 
Hill  avenue,  which  strikes  boldly  up  over  the  cliff'  next  north  of  High  Rock, 
is  just  now  receiving  a good  deal  of  attention,  and  several  fine  houses  have  been 
erected  near  the  summit  during  the  past  year.  The  residence  of  Hon.  J.  C.  Ben- 


RESIDENCE  OF  A.  B.  MARTIN. 

nett,  situated  neai  the  base  of  the  cliff,  has  a roomy  and  homelike  appearance  and  a 
substantial  air,  quite  in  contrast  with  many  of  the  more  modern  designs  in  architec- 


LOOKING  SOUTH  FROM  A.  B.  MARTIN’S  HOUSE 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN. 


115 


116  LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 

ture.  As  the  city  continues  to  grow,  much  of  the  expansion  must  inevitably  be 
upon  the  north  and  east  sides.  Already  Glenmere  and  Wyoma  have  lost  their 
former  appearance  of  suburban  villages,  and  become  integral  parts  of  the  city. 


RESIDENCE  OF  HON,  J.  C.  BENNETT,  BEACON  IIILL  AVE. 

comes  with  time.  Nahant  street,  leading  from  Broad  street  to  the  beach  was 


RESIDENCE  OF  IION.  J.  N.  BUFFUM,  HERBERT  STREET. 

The  eastern  section  of  the  town,  while  not  so  picturesque  as  that  which  has 
thus  far  had  our  attention,  has  the  substantial  and  settled  appearance  which 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN 


117 


for  many  years  the  only  public  highway  through  that  section.  The  Indian  sa- 
chems, (originally  pronounced  “ sawkum  ”)  ruled  on  Sagamore  hill,  and  what 


NAIIANT  STREET. 

on  the  other  side  of  the  street  was  not  unbroken  forest,  was  used  by  the  settlers 
as  farms.  The  march  of  improvement  set  in  hereabouts  scarcely  a generation 
ago,  and  there  are  those  now  living  who,  when  Ocean  street  was  laid  out,  pre- 
dicted that  it  would  never  be  needed.  How  far  this  prediction  was  from  the 
truth  can  best  be  seen  by  a visit  to  this  part  of  the  city.  Almost  every  available 


LOOKING  DOWN  NEWHALL  STREET. 

building  spot  has  been  improved,  and  each  season  sees  some  one  or  more  of 
the  older  fash'oned  houses  replaced  by  a handsome  modern  residence.  The 


118 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


beautiful  shade  trees  which  adorn  nearly  all  the  streets  in  the  older  settled  por- 
tions of  Lynn  add  greatly  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  city.  The  grounds  about 
most  of  the  houses  in  this  section  are  spacious  and  tastefully  laid  out,  and  contain 


LOOKING  DOWN  BALTIMORE  STREET. 


an  abundance  of  pear  and  other  fruit  trees,  to  which  the  soil  hereabouts  seems 
particularly  well  adapted.  The  desirability  of  this  section  as  a place  of  residence 
lies  not  more  in  the  general  beauty  and  quietness  which  prevail,  it  being  quite 
out  of  the  paths  of  trade  and  travel,  than  in  the  fixed  character  of  the  population, 
a large  proportion  of  the  estates  being  owned  by  the  occupants.  The  nearness 


of  the  waves  upon  the  sands  when  old  tudor  street. 

ocean  is  in  her  pleasant  moods,  and  the  thunders  of  the  billows  upon  the  beach 

when  the  storm  king  is  abroad,  are  the  every-day  music — “ each  day  hearing,  yet 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN. 


Ill) 


never  learning  the  grand  majestic  anthem  of  the  ocean” — yet  the  evening  wind 
from  the  sea,  in  the  hot  days  of  summer  so  delightfully  cool  and  refreshing,  is 
sometimes  laden  with  a chill  and  dampness  which  strikes  to  the  marrow,  unfelt  in 


OCEAN  STREET. 

those  parts  of  the  city  further  back  from  the  water.  Many  of  the  best  resi- 
dences in  this  section  are  to  be  found  on  Ocean  street.  These  are  nearly  all  of 
modern  build.  And  those  on  the  easterly  side  have  an  outlook  directly  upon  the 
water,  and  their  grounds  extend  down  to  the  beach.  Passing  down  Xahant  street 
we  suddenly'  find  oursel\res  upon  the  beach  at  a point  where  the  whole  expanse 


RESIDENCE  OF  EUGENE  BARRY,  XAHANT  STREET. 

more  beautiful  bit  of  water  scenery  upon  the  whole  New  England  coast  than  this. 
Many  have  likened  this  bay,  lying  betyveen  Phillip’s  Point  in  Swampscott, and  East 


120 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


RESIDENCE  OF  F.  W.  BREED,  OCEAN  STREET. 

Point  on  Nahant,  to  the  Bay  of  Naples,  lacking  perhaps  only  the  peculiar  purplish 
tint  so  characteristic  of  that  fair  haven.  The  beaches  which  surround  this  bay 


RESIDENCE  OF  JOHN  P.  WOODBURY,  NAHANT  STREET 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  TOWN 


121 

have  for  centuries  been  the  favorite  breathing  places  of  the  dwellers  hereabouts. 
Before  the  white  men  came  the  Indian  youth  held  their  sports  there,  and  doubtless 
the  Indian  maidens  and  their  lovers  found  an  evening  stroll  upon  its  smooth 
sands  as  pleasant  as  their  successors  in  our  own  time.  The  beach,  by  reason  of 


RESIDENCE  OF  J.  N.  SMITH,  OCEAN  STREET. 

its  extent,  is  thought  to  have  given  the  name  to  this  region  the  root  of 
the  name  Saugus  signifying  great,  or  extended.  To  the  Indians  the  beach 
was  a constant  source  of  food  supply,  and  to  the  early  settlers  a never-failing 
barometer.  William  Wood,  the  early  writer  before  quoted,  says  of  it : 
u Vpon  the  South  side  of  the  Sandy  Beach  the  sea  beatcth,  which  is  a true  prog- 
nostication to  presage  stormes  and  foule  weather,  and  the  breaking  up  of  the 
Frost.  For  when  a storme  hath  been  or  is  likely  to  be,  it  will  roare  like  Thun- 
der, being  heard  sixe  miles ; and  after  stormes  casts  up  great  stores  of  great 
Clammes  which  the  Indians,  taking  out  of  their  shcls,  carry  home  in  baskets.” 
The  beach  is  now  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  the  vicinity,  the  beauty  of 
the  place  and  the  conveniences  supplied  by  mine  host  of  the  Hotel  Nahant  attrac- 
ting visitors  from  all  directions. 

Out  on  the  point  of  Red  Rock,  which  juts  abruptly  into  the  waters, 
having  Deer  Cove  under  its  lea  and  Humphrey’s  Beach  stretching  out  toward 
Swampscott  on  the  other  side,  we  get  a still  better  view  of  the  bay  and  its 
setting.  This  has  always  been  a favorite  resting  spot  with  the  people  of 
Lynn.  In  the  foreground  Egg  Rock  stands  up  out  of  the  water  seemingly  twice 
its  actual  height.  On  either  hand  is  the  sandy  beach,  smooth  and  hard  as  a 
floor,  with  waves  constantly  dancing  forward  and  backward — the  same  of  which 


122 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Mrs.  Sigourney  sang,  mayhap  sitting  on  this  very  spot,  and  with  her  words  we 
close  this  chapter  of  Glimpses  of  Lynn. 


“The  sand  beach  and  the  sea — 

Who  can  divine 

Their  mystic  intercourse,  that  day  and  night 
Surceaseth  not?  On  comes  the  thundering  surge. 
Lifting  its  mountain  head,  with  menace  stern 
To  ’whelm  the  unresisting;  but  impelled 
In  all  the  plenitude  of  kingly  power 
To  change  its  purpose  of  authority, 

Breaking  its  wand  of  might,  doth  hurry  back; 

And  then,  repenting,  with  new  wrath  return. 

Yet  still  that  single  silvery  line  abides 
Lonely,  and  fearless,  and  immutable. 

God  gives  it  strength. 

So  may  He  deign  to  grant 
The  sand-line  of  our  virtues  power  to  cope 
With  all  temptation.  When  some  secret  snare 
Doth  weave  its  meshes  round  our  trembling  souls. 
That  in  their  frailty  turn  to  Him  alone, 

So  may  He  give  us  strength. 


HOTEL  NAHANT  AND  LYNN  BEACH 


9 


HE  person  who  even  casually  studies  the  social  developement  of  Lynn, 
though  he  goes  no  farther  or  deeper  than  the  pages  of  the  Directory,  will  be 
struck  by  the  large  number  of  organizations  of  different  kinds  which 
' have  not  only  the  official  paraphernalia  peculiar  to  such,  but  permanent 
places  for  holding  stated  meetings.  Not  reckoning  the  municipal  and  business 
organizations,  there  are  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  societies,  whose  range  of 
activities  cover  nearly  every  phase  of  the  social  life  of  the  city. 

The  charitable  institutions  should  perhaps  first  claim  our  attention.  The 
Home  for  Aged  Women  is  delightfully  situated  at  the  upper  end  of  the  common, 

on  Market  Square.  The 
building,  which  has  a deci- 
dedly classic  appearance,  was 
erected  in  1832  for  the  Nahant 
Bank,  which  went  the  way 
of  unsuccessful  enterprises, 
four  years  later.  It  was 
occupied  by  the  “ Home  ” in 
1876.  This  worthy  charity 
is  under  the  care  of  a board 
of  trustees,  of  whom  Mr. 
George  K.  Pevear  is  Presi- 
dent and  Hon.  Wm.  F. 
Johnson  is  Secretarv.  Mrs. 
Hattie  E.  Walsh  is  Matron. 


HATHORNE  HOUSE. 


124 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Of  all  our  public  institutions  perhaps  the  Lynn  Hospital  appeals  most  di- 
rectly to  the  masses  of  our  people.  The  hospital  buildings  are  pleasantly  situa- 
ted on  Boston  street,  near  Washington,  upon  what  was  formerly  known  as  the 
Hawthorne  estate.  Strawberry  brook  flows  by  the  door,  and  in  front  rise  abrupt, 
woody  hills,  with  here  and  there  a porphyry  ledge  breaking  through  the  soil. 
The  surroundings  are  quiet  and  beautiful.  In  early  times  this  quarter  was 
known  as  Mansfield’s  end.  The  old  mansion  standing  at  the  time  the  Hospital 
corporation  purchased  the  property  was  long  ago  known  as  the  Deacon  Farring- 
ton house,  and  afterward  it  was  occupied  by  Capt.  John  White  of  the  United 
States  Navy,  and  is  said  to  have  been  the  house  in  which  Lafayette  was 
entertained  when  he  visited  Lynn.  Subsequently  it  was  occupied  by 
Rev.  Mr.  Barlow,  second  minister  of  the  Unitarian  society,  and  later 
still  by  William  Hawthorne,  from  whom  it  took  its  name.  The  old  house 
now  forms  a part  of  the  hospital  buildings,  and  with  the  exception  of  new  sur- 
roundings and  a new  coat  of  paint  retains  its  original  aspect.  The  complete 


LYNN  HOSPITAL. 

usefulness  of  the  Hospital  is  beyond  expression.  Aside  from  the  case  of 
accident  which  are  almost  daily  treated,  there  is  the  unspeakable  comfort 
of  knowing  that  in  the  time  of  greatest  need  there  is  a place  where  the  best 
of  care  and  skill  is  always  at  command,  and  the  poorest  patient  in  the  Hospital 
receives  as  good  care  and  attention  as  the  wealthiest  citizen  can  obtain.  The 
institution  is  maintained  entirely  from  gifts,  and  has  thus  far  received  a generous 
support. 

he  Associated  Charities  was  formed  in  1886  for  the  purpose  of 
systematizing  and  regulating  the  general  charitable  work  of  the  city. 
Through  the  investigations  of  the  Society’s  agents  it  has  been  possible  to  distin- 
guish between  the  deserving  poor  and  those  who  have  made  it  their  calling  to 
impose  upon  the  charitably  inclined  in  the  community.  The  Society’s  head- 
quarters are  at  Lee  Hall,  where  the  Registrar,  Miss  Hannah  M.  Todd  is  in  con- 
stant attendance.  Cases  of  destitution  reported  here,  receive  prompt  attention. 


ORGANIZATIONS. 


125 


The  Children’s  Home,  on  Tower  Hill,  is  a two  story  wooden  building  erec- 
ted in  1 88 1,  situated  in  one  of  the  most  sightly  and  beautiful  spots  in  Lynn. 
The  purpose  of  the  home  is  to  provide  suitable  nurture  and  education  for  ex- 


ciiildren’s  home  and  city  almshouse. 
posed  young  children,  to  save  them  from  the  stigma  of  work-house  life,  and 
oftentimes  from  the  worse  influences  of  degraded  homes.  Our  view  takes  in 
botli  the  Home  and  the  Lynn  Almshouse  which  is  situated  near  ot  it. 

The  Massachusetts  Society  for  the  Promotion  of  Temperance  and  Inebriates’ 
Home  is  pleasantly  located  at  No.  19  New  Ocean  street,  near  the  beach,  and 
having  an  outlook  over  the  bay.  The  name  of  the  institution  expresses  its 
design,  which  is  the  care  and  treatment,  with  a view  to  cure,  of  those  addicted 


MASSACHUSETTS  TEMPERANCE  HOME. 

to  the  drinking  habit.  Mr.  Frank  M.  Flynn,  who  has  for  many  years  been 
prominent  in  reform  temperance  movements  in  Lynn,  is  superintendent. 


126 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


The  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  occupies  a position  of  large  influence 
and  usefulness,  having  an  active  membership  of  one  thousand  and  twenty-nine, 
and  during  the  nineteen  years  of  its  existence  fourteen  hundred  and  ninety-two 
ex-soldiers  and  sailors  have  been  connected  with  the  organization.  When  it 
was  first  started  it  met  with  little  favor.  There  were  but  ten  charter  members, 
and  the  first  headquarters  were  in  Washington  Hall,  now  remodelled  into  the 
Boscobel  Hotel.  The  Post  was  poor,  and  its  progress  during  the  first  few  years 
was  slow.  So  poorly  equipped  was  it  that  in  the  initiation  of  its  first  recruit, 


GEN.  LANDER  POST  5 G.  A.  R.  HEADQUARTERS. 

Capt.  J.  G.  B.  Adams,  they  had  to  go  to  a neighboring  house  to  borrow  a bible 
upon  which  to  administer  the  obligation  ; but  perseverance  and  pluck  won  the 
day  ; the  prejudices  were  overcome  and  the  foundation  laid  for  the  wealthiest 
Post  in  the  country.  Post  Five  now  owns  the  Coliseum  on  Summer  street, 
erected  in  1SS2,  at  a cost  for  buildings  and  land  of  $30,000,  and  the  beautiful 
new  building  on  Andrew  street,  erected  in  1SS6,  at  a cost  of  $37,000. 
Both  these  valuable  estates  are  held  by  the  Gen.  Lander  Building  Asso- 
ciation, free  from  all  incumbrance.  In  addition  to  the  cost  of  the  build- 
ings the  post  has,  since  its  organization,  disbursed  over  $75,000  in  charily. 


ORGANIZATIONS. 


127 


Y.  M.  C.  A. 

century.  Mt.  Carmel 
Lodge  was  chartered  in 
1805,  and  for  many  years 
continued  an  undisturbed 
existence.  About  1827 
the  city  was  in  common 
with  many  other  parts  of 
the  country,  stirred  to  its 
depths  by  the  anti- 
masonry excitement. 
On  the  1st  of  April, 
1857,  Mr.  Jacob  Allen 
of  Braintree  gave  an 
exhibition  of  the  al- 
leged mysteries  of  that 
institution  at  Liberty 
Hall,  on  the  corner  of 
Essex  and  Market 
streets,  and  on  the  6th 
the  inhabitants  in  town 
meeting  solemnly  voted 
that  they  regarded  Free- 
masonry “as  a great 


The  Coliseum  is  the  lar- 
gest public  hall  in  Lynn, 
and  is  much  in  demand 
for  political  and  social 
gatherings.  The  new 
building  on  Andrew 
street  is  fitted  up  with 
every  convenience  which 
can  add  to  the  comfort  of 
the  comrades.  Post  5 
takes  its  name  from  Brig. 
Gen.  Frederick  West  Lan- 
der, a resident  of  Lynn, 
who  distinguished  him- 
self in  the  Virginia  cam- 
paign of  1861,  and  whose 
death  in  1862  closed  a 
career  that  gave  promise 
of  great  brilliancy. 

The  introduction  of 
Freemasonry  into  Lynn 
dates  back  nearly  to  the 
beginning  of  the  present 


ODD  FELLOWS*  HALL. 


128 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


moral  evil,”  and  its  existence  u as  being  dangerous  to  all  free  governments. ” 
An  anti-masonry  party  was  formed  which  for  several  years  run  the  politics 
of  the  town,  and  a newspaper — The  Lynn  Record — turned  its  guns  upon 
the  order.  The  result  was  that  the  masons  kept  very  quiet,  and  several  lodges 
surrendered  their  charters.  Mt.  Carmel  Lodge  discontinued  its  meetings  for 
about  twenty  years,  when  the  excitement  having  cooled,  they  were  resumed. 
Lynn  has  now  three  lodges,  one  commandery  and  one  chapter,  with  a large 
membership. 

The  Independent  Order  of  Odd  Fellows  was  introduced  into  Lynn  in  1844, 
near  the  close  of  the  anti- 
masonry excitement,  the 
founders  claiming  that  it  was 
free  from  those  things  which 
had  been  deemed  objection- 
able in  the  more  ancient  so- 
ciety. The  Bay  State  Lodge 
was  the  pioneer,  and  has 
been  followed  by  Provi- 
dence, West  Lynn,  Richard 
W.  Drown  and  Glenmere 
Lodges,  and  by  Beulah  and 
Myrtle  Lodges  Daughters  of 
Rebecca  ; also,  Palestine  and 
Lynn  Encampments,  and 
Grand  Cantons  Lucerne  and 
Palestine,  Patriarchs  Mili- 
tant, a new  military  degree. 

Odd  Fellows’  Hall  on  the 
corner  of  Market  and  Sum- 
mer streets  was  erected  in 
1871-2  by  the  Odd  Fellows’ 

Hall  Association.  It  occu- 
pies the  site  of  the  old  Ly- 
ceum building,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  ornate  buildings  in 
town.  Richard  W.  Drown,  for  many  years  one  of  the  prominent  morocco 
manufacturers  of  Lynn,  was  very  active  in  promoting  the  principles  of  Odd  Fel- 
lowship. lie  was  a Past  Grand  in  Bay  State  Lodge,  and  for  a long  time  Degree 
Master  of  that  body.  He  also  held  numerous  offices  in  the  Grand  Lodge. 
He  was  chosen  Grand  Master  of  the  Grand  Lodge  during  what  proved  to  be  his 
last  sickness,  it  being  conceded  by  all  members  of  that  bodv  that  his  services 
to  the  oidei  merited  such  recognition,  and  the  Grand  Officers  came  to  Lynn 
and  to  his  bedside  to  install  him.  He  died  in  1S77.  Richard  W.  Drown  Lodge 
instituted  in  1SS1,  is  called  after  his  name. 

I he  Knights  of  Pythias  have  two  large  lodges,  both  organized  in  1870, 
Everett  Lodge  and  Calanthe  Lodge.  Their  hall  is  in  Tremont  block,  corner  of 


RICHARD  W.  DROWN. 


ORGANIZATIONS. 


129 


Tremont  and  Market  streets.  The  Knights  of  Honor,  Order  of  United  Friends, 
United  Order  of  Pilgrim  Fathers,  Order  of  United  American  Mechanics,  Ameri- 
can Legion  of  Honor,  and  numerous  other  protective  and  benefit  associations, 
hold  regular  meetings  in  different  places.  Many  of  the  societies  are  uniformed, 
and  street  parades  are  always  in  order,  and  the  accompanying  scene  on  Munroe 
street  is  reproduced  almost  any  day  in  the  summer  and  autumn  months. 

The  labor  organizations  of  Lynn  are  numerous  and  powerful,  and  extend  to 
nearly  every  branch  of  industry,  and  all  except  the  Lasters*  Union  are  enrolled 
with  the  Knights  of  Labor.  The  first  assembly  of  this  organization  was  formed 
in  Lynn  June  22,  1878,  and  was  known  as  Assembly  No.  715.  There  were 
only  eight  or  ten  present  at  the  first  meeting,  and  the  organization  was  kept  very 
secret  for  some  months.  There  are  now  thirty-four  assemblies  with  a member- 
ship of  about  twelve  thousand.  The  discipline  of  the  organization  is  very  strict, 
and  they  have  by  this  means  been  able  practically  to  dictate  prices  in  many  de- 
partments of  labor.  The  Lasters’  Union  has  held  aloof  from  the  Knights.  Like 
the  Brotherhood  of  Locomotive  Engineers,  this  organization  seeks  not  only  to 
secure  good  wages  for  its  members  but  to  educate  them  in  the  details  of  their 
craft,  so  they  may  become  good  workmen.  This  organization  originated  in 

Lynn  in  1879,  and 
there  are  now  about 
fifty  unions  in  the 
country,  with  a 
membership  of  some 
ten  thousand.  The 
Ly  nn  U n i o n h a s 
been  very  successful 
in  the  holding  of 
fairs  and  other  meth- 
ods of  raising  mon- 
ey, and  they  arc 
about  to  erect  a hall 
for  their  use  on  An- 
drew street,  near 
Music  Hall. 

The  Shoe  & 
Leather  Association 
is  an  organization  of 
the  manufacturers  to 
meet  the  demands  of 
the  labor  unions. 
The  result  of  these 
a typicat.  street  scene.  different  organiza- 

tions has  been  that  the  principle  of  arbitration  has  been  adopted,  and  a perma- 
nent committee  from  each  organization  now  meets  whenever  any  question  arises 
requiring  settlement  between  employers  and  their  workmen.  Thus  far  the 
system  has  been  found  generally  satisfactory. 

The  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  occupies  the  second  floor  of  its 


130 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


handsome  building  on  the 
corner  of  Market  and  Liberty 
streets.  The  Association 
does  a large  and  good  work 
among  young  men  ; Mr. 
George  C.  Herbert  is  Presi- 
dent, and  Mr.  John  L.  Gray 
is  General  Secretary.  A 
committee  of  the  Association 
has  the  administering  of  the 
Tolman  temperance  fund. 
The  upper  stories  of  this 
building  are  occupied  by  the 
different  Masonic  bodies. 

Lee  Ilall  stands  on  the 
site  of  the  Old  Bowery 
church,  and  is  the  head 
quarters  of  the  Park  Club, 
one  of  the  most  prominent  so- 
cial organizations  in  the  city  ; 
the  Club  occupies  pleasant 
rooms  on  the  second  floor, 
and  is  frequented  chiefly  by 
our  older  business  men. 


FIRST  NATIONAL  BANK. 

The  Oxford  Club  has  a younger  and 
more  active  constituency.  Their  rooms  in  the 
First  National  Bank  building,  on  the  corner  of 
Broad  and  Exchange  streets,  are  fitted  up  with  a view  to 
the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  the  members.  The  annual 
Charity  Ball  of  the  Club  is  the  great  social  event  of  the  year,  the  proceeds 


ORGANIZATIONS. 


131 


being  divided  among  the 
worthy  charities  of  the  city. 

In  her  public  school  sys- 
tem, not  only  in  respect  to  the 
appearance  and  equipment 
of  the  buildings,  but  also  the 
general  grade  of  excellence 
in  methods  and  attainment 
Lynn  is  second  to  none  of 
our  New  England  cities. 
These  consist  of  one  High 
School  located  on  High 
street,  seven  Grammar  and 
sixty-four  Primary  schools. 
The  High  school  building  is 
old  fashioned,  and  while  good  for  the  time  when  it  was  erected,  is  scarcely  up 
to  the  requirements  of  a modern  city,  and  will  doubtless  be  replaced  by  a more 


HIGHLAND  SCHOOL. 


COBBET  SCHOOL,  FRANKLIN  ST. 

suitable  structure  before  many  years.  The  three  pictures  of  school  houses  show 
the  different  styles  of  architecture  adopted  in  their  construction.  The  Cobbet 
School  on  Franklin  street  is 
one  of  the  finest  Grammar 
school  buildings  in  Essex 
County.  A feature  of  our 
public  school  system  is  the 
free  evening  drawing  school 
held  from  October  till  April, 
four  nights  each  week.  The 
large  number  who  have 
availed  themselves  of  its  ad- 
vantages have  proved  its  pop- 
ularitv  and  usefulness.  In 
addition  to  the  public  schools 


SHEPARD  SCHOOL,  WARREN  ST. 


132 


LYNN 


AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


there  are  numerous  schools  under  private  auspices  of  considerable  excellence. 
St.  Mary’s  Parochial  School  is  the  largest  of  these,  and  has  several  hundred 
children  under  its  instruction. 

The  Lynn  Fire  Department  has  a high  reputation  for  efficiency  and  general 
excellence.  The  apparatus 
consists  of  five  Steam  Fire 
Engines  of  the  most  im- 
proved patterns,  one  Chemi- 
cal Engine,  four  Hose  Wag- 
ons, and  two  Hook  and 
Ladder  Trucks.  The  prin- 


BROAD  STREET  ENGINE  HOUSE. 


cipal  engine-house  and  headquar- 
ters of  the  department  are  on 
Broad  street,  near  Market.  This 
is  a handsome  building,  affording 
accommodations  for  three  engines, 
two  hose  carriages  and  one  hook 
and  ladder  truck,  offices  for  the 
Chief  Engineer  and  assistants,  and 
sleeping  accommodations  for  those 
men,  who  are  always  on  duty.  In 
the  house  on  Fayette  street  is  located 
Steamer  No.  5,  and  in  the  Federal 
street  house  Engine  No.  3,  Hose 
No.  3 and  Hook  and  Ladder  No. 
2,  and  one  hose  company  is  sta- 
tioned on  Chestnut,  near  Pond 
street.  The  Chief  Engineer  of 
the  fire  department  is  Mr.  Abram 
C.  Moody,  and  much  of  its  present 
state  of  excellence  is  due  to  his 
energy  and  faithful  oversight 


CHIEF  ENGINEER  A.  C.  MOODY. 


and  the  strict  discipline  which  he  enforces.  Lynn  has  never  yet  been  visited 
bv  any  disastrous  conflagration,  which  is  attributed  in  a large  measure  to  the 
careful  watch  and  prompt  serv  ice  of  the  department. 


FAYETTE  STREET  ENGINE  HOUSE. 

The  system  of  protection  against  fire  in  vogue  in  nearly  every  city  and  town 
of  anyr  considerable  size  throughout  the  country,  had  its  birth  in  the  brain  of  a 
Lynn  inventor.  Mr.  Joseph  Jenks  was  a mechanic  of  considerable  original  genius, 
and  came  to  this  country  from  England  to  work  as  founder  in  the  Iron  Works,  and 
where  he  produced  the  first  castings  made  in  the  New  World.  His  inventions  in 
saw-mills  and  scythes  were  among  the  first  for  which  the  “patronage”  of  the 
government,  as  patents  were  then  termed,  was  sought ; and  in  1654  the  town  of 

Boston  voted  that  the  “ Se- 


lectmen have  liberty  to 
agree  with  Joseph  Jynks 
for  lupins  to  carry  water 
in  case  of  fire,  if  they  see 
cause  so  to  doe,”  and  it  is 
supposed  that  they  saw 
“ cause,”  for  some  years 
after,  the  town  voted  to 
have  “the  water  Engine 
for  the  quenching  of  lire, 
repaired.”  The  step  from 
that  modest  little  “ Ingin” 
to  the  latest  productions 
in  the  same  line  is  a long 
one,  but  the  principle  of 
throwing  a stream  of  wa- 
federal  street  engine  house.  ter  to  the  top  of  a burning 

building  by  means  of  a force  pump  has  not  been  much  improved  upon — only 
the  methods  of  applying  it  have  been  changed.  In  Lynn  were  several  hand  fire 


134 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


engine  companies,  and  many  of  our  first  citizens  can  remember  the  days  when 
they  “ run  with  the  machine,”  and  no  other  cup  of  hot  coffee  will  ever  attain  to 
the  perfection  of  flavor  of  that  served  by  the  ladies  of  the  town,  after  a success- 
ful midnight  battle  with  an  incipient  conflagration.  The  first  steam  fire  engine 
was  brought  to  the  city  in  1864,  and  received  the  name  of  “ The  City  of  Lynn.” 
This  machine  did  honorable  service  for  many  years  until  replaced  by  others  of 
more  modern  build. 

The  Lynn  Public  Library  is  one  of  the  most  useful  of  our  public  institutions. 
It  was  founded  in  1862,  having  for  a basis  the  collection  of  the  Lynn  Free  Pub- 
lic Library,  a corporation  organized  in  1S55,  which  had  in  turn  inherited  the 
treasures  of  the  First  Social  Library  incorporated  in  1819.  The  collection  now 
numbers  upwards  of  thirty-two  thousand  volumes,  which  find  scanty  accommo- 
dations in  the  right  wing  of  the  City  Hall  building.  The  Library  is  under  the 
government  of  a board  of  trustees,  of  which  Mr.  Edward  S.  Davis  is  president. 
Mr.  J.  C.  Houghton  is  librarian,  a gentleman  by  taste  and  acquirements  emi- 
nently fitted  for  the  position.  It  is  hoped  that  the  city  government  will  take 
early  measures  to  provide  enlarged  accommodations  for  the  Library  which  is 
constantly  growing,  and  extending  its  influence  for  good  among  the  people. 

The  last  of  our  public  organizations  of  which  our  limits  permit  mention  is 
the  Lynn  Free  Public  Forest,  a voluntary  association  to  preserve  for  public  use 
some  portion  of  the  wooded  section  north  of  the  city.  Several  different  parcels 
of  ground  in  this  wild  and  beautiful  region  have  already  been  secured.  Each 
year  the  society  holds  a field  day,  when  with  mysterious  druidical  rites,  the  syl- 
van gods  are  honored  and  the  lands  dedicated  to  the  use  of  the  people  forever. 
These  ceremonies  are  conducted  with  a good  deal  of  spirit  and  are  always  large- 
ly attended.  It  is  proposed  that  at  some  future  time  the  lands  thus  secured  shall 
form  the  nucleus  of  a public  park,  which  may  be  made  to  include  Dungeon 
Rock  and  the  region  round  about.  In  this  event  the  city  would  not  only  obtain 
a park  of  rare  natural  beauty,  but  the  romantic  legendary  and  historical  associa- 
tions which  cluster  around  would  invest  the  place  with  a never-dying  interest 
both  to  citizen  and  stranger. 

o 


THE  OLD  LYCEUM  BUILDING. 


mANY  of  the  family  names  of  Lynn  have  become  so  interwoven  with  her 
history  as  to  be  a part  of  it.  The  names  of* Ingalls,  Burrill,  Newhall,  Breed, 
and  many  more  were  borne  by  the  earliest  settlers,  and  at  no  time  since 
have  some  of  their  descendents  not  been  prominently  identified  with  the 
‘ ' affairs  of  the  town.  In  his  charming  book  on  44  Lin,”  and  also  in  his  An- 
nals, Judge  Newhall  has  done  some  of  his  most  valuable  work  in  connection 
with  these  family  names  ; and  through  his  efforts  the  youth  of  the  future,  when 
it  shall  have  come  to  be  esteemed  a sufficient  honor  that  his  ancestors  had  a part 
in  foundingour  free  institutions,  may  climb  his  family  tree  with  ease  and  dispatch. 

The  earliest  settlers  were  generally  men  of  quiet  lives  and  deeply  engaged 
in  the  care  of  their  virgin  acres,  but  in  their  descendants  their  names  have  be- 
come widely  known.  George  Bancroft  came  to  Lynn  in  1630  and  died  in  1637, 
and  George  Bancroft  the  historian  is  his  lineal  descendant.  The  name  was  at 
that  time  spelled  Barcroft.  Edward  Holyoke,  who  lived  near  Holyoke  street, 
was  one  of  the  strongest  characters  in  the  town,  and  his  grandson  was  President 
of  Harvard  College.  Thomas  Newhall  came  to  Lynn  in  1630,  and  his  son 
Thomas,  born  the  same  year,  was  the  first  white  child  born  in  Lynn.  He 
would  seem  to  have  become  a sort  of  joint  heir  to  the  promise  to  Abraham,  for 
although  his  seed  are  not  as  numerous  as  the  stars  of  heaven  or  the  sands  of  the 
sea-shore,  more  people  in  Lynn  are  called  by  his  name  than  by  anv  other.  At  one 
period  there  were  eight  people  here  by  the  name  of  James  Newhall,  and  to  dis- 
tinguish them  their  neighbors  had  recourse  to  the  nicknames,  Squire  Jim, 


136 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Phthisicy  Jim,  Silver  Jim,  Bully  Jim,  Increase  Jim,  President  Jim,  Nathan's 
Jim,  and  Doctor  Jim. 

John  Burrill,  who  was  grandson  of  the  first  settler  of  the  name,  was  a 
Representative  in  the  General  Court  for  twenty-two  years,  was  Speaker  of  the 
House  ten  years,  and  Councillor  in  1720;  and  in  these  responsible  offices  he 
acquired  a high  reputation  for  integrity  and  ability.  His  gravestone  may  still  be 
seen  in  the  Old  Burying  Ground,  with  its  long  and  quaint  epitaph,  and  in  his 
will  he  bequeathed  forty  pounds  to  the  First  Church  “toward  ye  furnishing  of 
ye  table  of  the  Lord.  Many  others  of  his  name  achieved  honorable  distinction 
in  public  positions,  and  the  family  came  to  be  facetiously  called  the  Royal 
Family  of  Lynn.  Chief  Justice,  and  afterward  Senator  Burrill  of  Rhode  Island, 
was  descended  from  this  Lynn  family. 

William  Gray,  better  known  as  Billy  Gray,  in  his  day  the  most  famous  and 
wealthy  merchant  in  New  England,  was  a native  of  Lynn,  though  in  his  later 
years  a resident  of  Boston.  It  would  be  a pleasure  to  linger  among  these 
honored  names,  about  which  clusters  so  much  of  never-dying  interest,  but  we 
must  pass  from  them  to  some  of  the  more  familiar  names  of  our  own  time. 

Perhaps  no  three  men  have  done  more  to 
perpetuate  the  name  and  fame  of  our  city  than 
have  her  three  historians.  Alonzo  Lewis  was 
by  profession  a civil  engineer  of  wide  reputa- 
tion, and  doubtless  the  familiarity  with  the 
real  estate  lines  and  titles,  gained  only  by  the  pa- 
tient research  which  his  calling  made  neces- 
sary, led  him  to  undertake  the  compilation  of 
the  history  of  the  city.  The  early  records  of 
the  town  were  in  a state  of  almost  inexplicable 
confusion,  and  very  many  were  lost ; in  con- 
sequence, the  labors  of  the  historian  were  both 
perplexing  and  arduous.  The  first  edition  of 
• his  History  of  Lynn  appeared  in  1S29  and  the 
second  in  1844.  A third  edition  was  in  con- 
templation when  he  died  in  1S61 . This  work  of 
Mr.  Lewis  was  carefully  and  gracefully  per- 
formed, both  volumes  are  richly  suggestive  and 
instructive.  Air.  Lewis  also  published  a vol- 
ume of  poems  of  much  merit,  and  wrote  at  times 
upon  various  topics  of  current  interest.  He  was  also  interested  in  everything 
that  pertained  to  the  welfare  of  the  city.  He  laid  out  the  road  to  Nahant,  sug- 
gested to  the  government  the  idea  of  the  Egg  Rock  Light,  and  named  many  of 
the  streets  of  the  citv. 

Intimately  connected  with  the  name  of  Alonzo  Lewis  is  that  of  Judge 
James  R.  Newliall.  Although  following  the  laborious  profession  of  the  law, 
in  which  he  was  successful,  he  has  nevertheless  found  time  for  much  literarv 
work  of  a historical  nature.  He  took  up  the  history  of  Lynn  where  Lewis  left 
oh,  and  in  1S65  published,  under  the  joint  names  of  himself  and  his  predecessor 
m the  work,  a handsome  volume  in  which  he  continues  the  story  of 


ALONZO  LEWIS. 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


JUDGE  JAMES  R.  NEWHALL. 

Ilis  racy,  garrulous  style  lends  a fascina- 


Lewis  through  the  lateryears  and  adds  largely  to  the  record  of  the  earlier  years  from 
the  results  of  his  own  investigations. 

In  1880  he  published  a volume  en- 
titled “ Lin,  or  the  Jewels  of  the 
Third  Plantation,”  in  which  in  a 
quaint,  gossipy,  delightful  style  he 
treats  of  the  prominent  characters  of 
the  early  settlement,  together  with 
numerous  legends  and  traditions 
which  cluster  around  the  early  days. 

In  1879  he  was  selected  to  prepare 
the  memorial  volume  published  in 
connection  with  the  two  hundred  and 
fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  city,  and 
in  1S83  he  published  a volume  of 
“Annals,”  in  which  the  history  of  the 
city  is  brought  down  to  that  year.  In 
early  life  Judge  Newhall  was  an 
adept  at  the  printer’s  trade,  and  not 
a little  of  his  literary  work  has  been 
done  at  the  case,  his  thoughts  taking 
form  in  the  type,  ready  for  the  press, 
tion  to  his  books  not  often  found  in  works  of  their  class. 

Mr.  David  N.  Johnson,  in  his  Sketches  of  Lynn,  published  in  1880,  has 
pictured  with  almost  photographic  faithfulness  to  detail,  many  features  of  the 

business  and  social  life  of  the  city 
in  the  first  half  of  the  present 
century,  and  in  this  respect  his 
work  is  a valuable  supplement 
to  the  labors  of  his  co-workers  in 
the  field  of  local  history.  Mr. 
Johnson  has  for  several  years 
been  on  the  editorial  stall' of  the 
Lynn  Transcript,  and  is  a pleas- 
ing and  forcible  writer  both  in 
prose  and  verse. 

Mr.  Cyrus  M.  Tracy  has 
also  done  some  good  work  in 
connection  with  our  local  history, 
having  contributed  the  chapters 
on  Amesbury,  Lynn,  Lynnfield, 
Nahant,  and  Saugus  in  the  Stand- 
ard History  of  Essex  County. 
He  is  a skillful  botanist,  and  in 
david  n.  Johnson.  1 858  put  forth  a valuable  work 

entitled  “ Studies  of  the  Essex  Flora.”  He  has  also  been  a frequent  contribu- 
tor to  the  local  newspapers,  and  many  old  citizens  will  remember  the  curious 


133 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


poetical  controversy  between  him  under  the  pseudonym  of  “ Iota,”  and  44  The 
Lynn  Bard,”  as  Alonzo  Lewis  often  styled  himself. 

While  speaking  of  those  of  our  citizens  who  have  made  their  mark  in  liter- 
ature, we  should  not  forget  William  Wood,  whose  book  “ New  England's 
Prospect,”  was  one  of  the  first  books  penned  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  It  was  pub- 
lished in  England  in  1635,  and  its  one  hundred  pages  contained  a very  favorable 
description  of  the  early  settlement. 

Rev.  Samuel  Whiting,  the  early  pastor  of  the  first  church,  published  four 
volumes  on  religious  subjects,  which  in  their  day  attracted  much  attention.  Rev. 
Thomas  Cobbett,  his  colleague  in  the  pastorate,  wielded  a prolific  pen,  and  dealt 
with  matters  of  political  economy  as  well  as  religious  themes.  lie  was  a man 
of  great  reputation,  and  his  funeral  was  an  event  of  the  time,  there  being  re- 
quired, according  to  the  veracious  historian,  for  the  consolation  of  the  mourners, 
44  one  barrel  of  wine,  £6,  8 s ; two  barrels  of  cider,  11  s ; 82  lbs.  sugar,  £2,  1 s ; 
half  a cord  of  wood,  4s ; four  dozen  pairs  of  gloves  4 for  men  and  women,'  £5, 
4 s ; and  4 some  spice  and  ginger  for  the  cider.'  ” It  must  have  been  a very  sad 
occasion. 

Perhaps  the  most  distinctively  literary  son  of  Lynn  was  Mr.  James  Berry 
Bensel.  For  many  years  he  was  a resident  here,  where  he  did  much  of  his  best 
work.  His  last  published  volume  of  poems  entitled  44  In  the  King’s  Garden,” 
contains  the  best  productions  of  his  pen.  He  enjoyed  a wide  acquaintance 
among  literary  men,  and  his  early  death  cut  short  a career  of  great  promise. 

William  II.  Prescott,  the  eminent  historian,  was  for  some  years  a summer 
resident  of  Lynn,  his  estate  being  on  Ocean  street.  Here  he  composed  a con- 
siderable portion  of  44  Phillip  the  Second,”  and  did  other  writing. 

Mr.  Josiah  F.  Kimball  was  for  many  years  editor  of  the  Lynn  News,  and 
is  still  a frequent  contributor  to  the  weekly  press  of  the  city. 

Of  those  who  are  making  their  mark  upon  the  literatnre  of  the  day  maybe  men- 
tioned Eugene  Barry,  whose  short  poems  are  familiar  to  the  readers  of  the  Boston 
Transcript ; Thomas  Ronayne,  who  writes  for  the  Boston  Pilot ; Bessie  Bland,  who 
has  produced  much  graceful  verse  which  has  appeared  in  the  local  press  ; S.  W. 
Foss,  of  the  Saturday  Union,  who  has  made  something  of  a reputation  by  a 
peculiar  literary  device  consisting  of  poetical  lines  of  enormous  length  and  an 
easy  metrical  jingle ; Henrietta  E.  Dow,  a most  versatile  writer  of  magazine 
articles  and  stories ; Joseph  W.  Nye,  who  is  one  of  the  veteran  poets  of  Lynn, 
and  has  written  much  for  the  local  press ; Frank  R.  Whitten,  who  is  achieving 
a reputation  in  the  field  of  literary  criticism  ; and  Howard  M.  Newhall,  who, 
though  yet  a young  man,  has  won  a high  position  as  a writer  on  economic  topics, 
and  his  special  boot  and  shoe  articles  have  attracted  wide  attention  both  at  home 
and  abroad.  The  list  might  be  much  extended,  but  we  must  pass  on  with  the 
simple  wish  that  each  faithful  worker  may  receive  the  poet’s  reward : 

“Thanks  untraced  to  lips  unknown 
Shall  greet  me  like  the  odors  blown 
From  unseen  meadows  newly  mown, 

Or  lilies  floating  in  some  pond, 

Wood-fringed,  the  wayside  gaze  beyond; 

The  traveller  owns  the  grateful  sense 
Of  sweetness  near,  he  knows  not  whence,  % 

And,  pausing,  takes  with  forehead  bare 
The  benediction  of  the  air.” 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


139 

Hon.  John  B.  Alley  was  born  in  Lynn  January  7,  1S17.  His  father  was  a 
wealthy  and  prominent  member  of  the  Society  of  Friends.  At  the  early  age  of 
twelve  he  left  school,  and  at  fourteen,  according  to  the  healthy  custom  of  the 
time  was  apprenticed  to  learn  the  shoemaker’s  trade.  He  worked  at  the  bench 
steadily  during  the  five  succeeding  years,  and  at  the  end  of  his  term  was  given 
his  time,  He  immediately  engaged  in  business,  at  first  at  Cincinnati  where  he 
purchased  a boat,  loaded  it  with  goods  and  floated  down  to  New  Orleans  on  a 
trading  expedition.  The  venture  was  successful,  and  returning  to  Lynn  he  en- 
gaged in  the  manufacture  of  shoes.  In  1S47  he  founded  the  wholesale  leatner 
house  of  John  B.  Alley  & Co.,  which  has  since  stood  in  the  front  rank  of  the  leather 
trade.  Mr.  Alley  has  also  engaged  in  extensive  enterprises  outside  of  his  leather 
business  and  is  still  prominently  connected  with  several  western  railroads,  and 
the  abundant  success  which  has  crowned  his  efforts  is  the  best  commentary  on 
the  ability  and  sound  judgement  which  directed  them. 

But  while  giving  careful  thought  and  attention  to  the  details  of  his  large 
business,  Mr.  Alley  has  found  time  to  indulge  a literary  taste,  has  written  exten- 
sively for  several  newspapers,  and  engaged  actively  in  the  political  controversies 
which  led  up  to  the  war  of  the  rebellion.  He  was  an  ardent  anti-slavery  man, 
was  prominent  in  the  free  soil  party  and  was  published  throughout  the  South  as 
an  objectionable  abolitionist  whom 
all  good  southerners  should  avoid. 

In  1851  he  was  a member  of  the 
Governor’s  Council  ; in  1852  he 
was  a member  of  the  State  Senate  ; 
in  1S53  served  in  the  Constitu- 
tional Convention ; and  for  two 
years  was  Chairman  of  the  Repub- 
lican State  Committee.  In  185S 
he  was  elected  to  Congress,  being 
the  first  Lynn  man  who  has  been 
accorded  that  distinguished  honor, 
and  served  four  terms,  all  through 
the  trying  and  exciting  years  of  the 
war.  He  took  an  active  part  in  the 
proceedings  of  that  body  and  in 
several  speeches  advocated  those 
financial  measures  which  became 
the  policy  of  the  government  in 
dealing  with  the  currency.  He  en- 
joyed intimate  personal  friendship 
with  the  Senators  from  Massachusetts,  Charles  Sumner  and  Henry  Wilson,  as 
as  well  as  with  Chief  Justice  Chase,  and  others  prominent  in  the  government, 
whose  names  are  a part  of  the  history  of  those  times. 

Mr.  John  B.  Tolman  is  one  of  our  oldest  and  honored  citizens.  He  was 
born  in  Barre,  Mass.,  eighty  years  ago,  and  came  to  Lynn  in  1830  to  engage 
in  the  printing  business,  which  he  conducted  successfully  for  many  years,  and  in 
addition  to  the  ordinary  business  of  a job  office  was  successively  publisher  of  the 


HON.  JOHN  B.  ALLEY. 


140 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Lynn  Record,  Sabbath  School  Contributor, 
Parsons  Cooke,  Essex  County  Washingtonian 
new  name,  and  numerous  other  publications. 


JOHN  B.  TOLMAN. 

stance  to  the  public  good  deny  themselves,  the 
he  planned  in  process  of  accomplishment. 

Hon.  William  F.  Johnson  has 
for  many  years  been  a prominent  fig- 
ure in  Lynn  affairs.  He  comes  of  the 
old  Quaker  stock  and  was  born  and 
reared  on  the  Johnson  estate  at 
Nahant,  in  the  old  mansion  now  stand- 
ing opposite  the  Post  Office,  in  which 
house  his  father,  Caleb  Johnson,  was 
born  and  lived  until  he  died  at  the  ad- 
vanced age  of  90  years.  The  subject 
of  our  sketch  was  sixth  of  a good  old- 
fashioned  family  of  ten  children.  His 
early  life,  with  the  exception  of  one 
year  spent  in  European  travel,  was 
devoted  to  farming  and  grocery  bus- 
iness. At  various  times  since  1852 
he  has  served  the  city  in  the  several  ca- 
pacities of  assessor,  alderman  and  may- 
or. His  term  in  the  latter  office  was  in 
185$,  a time  of  great  financial  depres- 


The  Puritan,  then  edited  by  Rev. 

, which  was  the  Record  under  a 
At  length,  failing  health  necessita- 
ted a change  and  he  sold  out  his 
printing  establishment  and  engag- 
ed in  real  estate  transactions,  and 
has  since  held  many  important 
positions  in  connection  with  pri- 
vate and  corporate  interests.  The 
success  of  Mr.  Tolman  may  be 
attributed  to  three  very  common- 
place principles — abstention  from 
foolish  and  expensive  habits,  unre- 
mitting industry,  and  strict  honesty 
in  all  transactions.  He  has  also 
found  opportunity  for  extensive 
travel  both  in  this  and  foreign 
countries,  and  has  taken  a notable 
part  in  the  work  of  temperance  re- 
form. His  gifts  to  this  cause  and 
other  charities  have  been  munifi- 
cent, and  by  the  bestowal  of  the 
Tolman  Fund  to  theY.M.  C.A., 
he  has  secured  that  which  many 
who  devote  a portion  of  their  sub- 
pleasure of  seeing  the  work  which 


HON.  WM.  F.  JOHNSON. 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


141 


sion,  and  his  administration  was  marked  for  its  economy  in  the  management  of  city 
affairs,  and  its  strict  enforcement  of  the  laws  regulating  amusements.  In  1862 
and  1S63  he  represented  the  Essex  first  district  in  the  State  Senate  and  in  1864 


was  commissioned  as  State  Paymaster  by  Governor  Andrew,  to  reside  in  Wash- 
ington, to  pay  the  State  bounty  to  soldiers  that  were  credited  to  Massachusetts. 
Mr.  Johnson  has  been  ^identified  with  most  of  the  temperance  movements  and 
charitable  works  of  the  city,  and  was  an  incorporator  of  the  Home  for  Aged 
Women  and  its  Secretary  since  its  organization,  and  an  incorporator  of  the  Lynn 
Hospital  and  for  two  years  its  President.  He  was  for  many  years  connected 
with  St.  Stephen's  Episcopal  Church,  and  is  now  an  active  member  of  the 
Parish  of  the  Incarnation.  He  is  now  and  has  been  for  many  years  entra^ed 
in  the  insurance  business, and  in  June  last  received  his  twenty-first  election  as 
Secretary  of  the  Lynn  Mutual  Fire  Insurance  Company. 

Hon.  James  N.  Buffum  has 
for  nearly  three  score  years  been 
in  active  business  in  Lynn.  The 
name  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the 
country,  the  first  representatives 
having  come  to  Salem  from  Eng- 
land in  1638,  and  the  subject 
of  this  sketch  is  the  last  remain- 
ing representative  of  the  seventh 
generation.  The  family  early 
adopted  the  Quaker  belief,  and 
one  Joshua  Buffum  suffered  for 
his  faith,  being  banished  by  Gov. 

Endicott  on  pain  of  death.  He 
went  to  England  and  returned 
in  company  with  Samuel  Shat- 
tuck,  who  bore  the  4i  King’s 
Missive.”  Mr.  Buffum  was  born 
in  North  Berwick,  Maine,  where 
his  grandfather  had  gone  from 
Salem.  At  the  age  of  seventeen 
he  left  home.  He  worked  six 
years  in  Salem,  three  of  which 

he  spent  with  the  Messrs.  Hook  Hon.  JAMES  N>  buffum. 

in  building  church  organs;  attended  one  term  at  the  Friends’  School  in  Provi- 
dence, and  in  1831  came  to  Lynn.  During  the  first  twenty  years  he  carried  on 
the  business  of  contracting  builder ; later  he  became  interested  in  real  estate 
and  also  engaged  in  a general  lumber  business ; and  still  later  began  the  manu- 
facture of  packing  boxes  and  shoe  cases,  in  which  he  is  still  engaged.  Few  have 
done  more  for  the  development  of  Lynn  than  Mr.  Buffum.  He  has  erected  more 
than  four  hundred  buildings  in  the  city,  and  in  the  registry  of  deeds  at  Salem  are 
recorded  over  seven  hundred  of  his  transactions  in  real  estate  in  Lynn.  He  laid  out 
Ocean  street,  and  opened  up  to  settlement  a large  section  of  the  Highlands  where 
his  own  elegant  residence  now  is.  He  brought  the  first  Steam  Engine  into  Lynn  and 


142 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


set  up  the  first  wood-planing  machine  in  Massachusetts.  He  was  the  original 
promoter  of  the  Lynn  Gas  Light  Company  ; was  one  of  the  founders  of  the  Central 
National  Bank,  and  has  been  connected  with  numerous  other  enterprises.  In  1868 
he  was  chosen  Presidential  Elector  ; in  1869  he  was  elected  Mayor,  and  in  1S72  was 
re-elected  to  the  same  office  ; and  in  1873  he  was  elected  to  the  General  Court. 
In  all  of  these  positions  he  served  with  credit  both  to  himself  and  to  the  city. 

lie  became  an  early  convert  to  the  anti-slavery  doctrine,  being  one  of  the 
first  and  strongest  adherents  to  the  Garrisonian  idea.  lie  gave  of  his  time,  talents 
and  money  freely  to  the  cause.  His  house  was  always  open  both  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  leaders,  and  as  a station  of  the  “underground  railroad.”  Pie 
visited  England  in  1845  in  company  with  Frederick  Douglas  for  the  purpose  of 
awakening  a public  sentiment  in  opposition  to  slavery  there,  and  he  spoke  to 
large  audiences  in  numerous  places  in  England  and  Scotland.  In  recognition 
of  his  eflorts  in  behalf  of  the  slave  he  has  not  only  received  the  attentions  of  the 
mob  who  stoned  his  house,  but  also  distinguished  honors  from  those  high  in 
station  both  at  home  and  abroad ; and  he  has  many  interesting  mementoes  of 
those  stirring  and  stormy  times.  Although  in  his  eightieth  year,  Mr.  Buffinn 
is  still  hale  and  active,  attending  daily  to  the  details  of  his  large  private  business. 

Mr.  Benjamin  F.  Doak  was  for  many  years  a leading  shoe  manufacturer  and 
a public  spirited  citizen,  and  was  connected  with  many  of  the  principal  financial 
institutions  of  the  city.  He  was  noted  in  life  both  for  strict  integrity  and  upright- 
ness in  business  matters,  and  for  timely  and  generous  benefactions.  I Ic  was  a 1 iberal 
supporter  of  the  First  Universalist  Church,  and  by  his  will  he  left  to  be  ad- 
ministered by  the  city  for  the 
benefit  of  the  poor  the  sum  of 
ten  thousand  dollars,  which  is 
known  as  the  Doak  Fund. 

The  large  business  which  he 
built  up  is  still  carried  on 
under  the  style  of  John  S. 

Bartlett  & Co. 

Among  the  many  who 
have  been  prominently  connec- 
ted with  our  leading  industry, 
but  who  have  retired  from  ac- 
tive business  are  Hon.  Joseph 
Davis,  the  founder  and  for 
many  years  the  president  of 
the  Davis  Shoe  Company ; 

Mr.  Stephen  Oliver,  Jr.,  who 
for  a long  number  of  years 
transacted  a large  business  on 
the  corner  of  South  Common 
and  Pleasant  streets,  his  fac- 
tory having  been  remodelled 
into  the  residence  of  Dr.  Mc- 
Arthur ; Mr.  Warren  Newhall, 


BENJAMIN  F.  DOAK. 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


143 


whose  factory  was  next  to  the  First  Church  on  South  Common  street;  Mr.  Lu- 
cian Newhall,  formerly  on  South  Common  street  and  later  on  the  corner  of  Ex- 
change and  Spring  streets  ; Ex-Mayor  Edward  S.  Davis,  whose  factory  was  near 
the  Frog  Pond,  his  business  passing  into  the  hands  of  Samuel  S.  Ireson,  who 
was  for  very  many  years  a prominent  manufacturer;  Mr.  Edwin  II.  Johnson, 
who  in  his  later  years  was  located  on  Munroe  street ; Mr.  Thomas  Stacey,  who 
was  the  pioneer  in  the  carpet  slipper  business  in  Lynn,  and  to  whose  business 
Mr.  Luther  S.  Johnson  succeeded  ; Mr.  Benjamin  Sprague,  whose  place  of  bus- 
iness was  on  South  Common  street ; Mr.  C.  F.  Coffin,  who  was  the  successor 
to  Micajah  Pratt’s  business  on  Broad  street;  Mr.  Harrison  Newhall,  for  many 
years  located  on  the  Common,  and  who  built  the  first  of  the  brick  shoe  factories 
down  town.  These,  and  many  others  who  are  still  living  and  active  were  at 
one  time  among  the  leading  manufacturers  in  the  city. 

Among  the  most 
prom inentof  the  shoe  man- 
ufacturers of  the  present 
day  maybe  mentioned  Mr. 

Francis  W.  Breed,  who 
is  the  largest  manufacturer 
in  Lynn,  and  in  ladies  and 
misses’  shoes  the  largest  in 
New  England.  lie  has 
three  large  factories — two 
in  Lynn,  and  another  in 
Rochester,  N.H.,  with  a 
capacity  of  six  or  seven 
thousand  pairs  of  shoes 
per  day.  Mr.  Breed’s 
rise  in  business  has  been 
rapid  but  steady.  Possess- 
ing the  qualities  of  thor- 
oughness, address  and  en- 
ergy in  a marked  degree, 
he  has  achieved  success  in 
a business  where  competi- 
tion is  very  close  and  the 
favors  of  fortune  extreme- 
few.  lie  manufactures 
nearly  all  grades  of  shoes, 
but  has  made  a specialty 
of  popular  low  priced  goods,  and  these  are  sent  into  every  part  of  the 
country.  Mr.  Breed  gives  close  attention  to  the  detail  of  his  large  business,  in- 
sisting upon  thorough  and  faithful  work.  He  is  probably  one  of  the  best  buyers 
in  the  market.  Mr.  Breed  has  travelled  extensively  and  has  kept  himself  young 
while  carrying  a weight  of  care  and  responsibility  that  would  have  broken  down 
many.  His  residence  on  Ocean  street  has  a beautiful  outlook  over  the  bay,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  comfortable  and  homelike  spots  on  the  shore. 


144 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Hon.  Josiah  C.  Bennett  came  to  Lynn  to  engage  in  the  manufacture  of 
shoes  in  1870.  Ilis  native  place  was  Sandwich,  where  he  was  born  in  1835. 
In  1852  he  was  apprenticed  to  learn  the  shoemaker’s  trade  in  Danvers,  serving 
his  full  time.  lie  remained  in  the  shoe  business  until  1865,  when  he  removed 
to  Boston  and  became  interested  in  the  manufacture  of  shoe  tips,  and  later 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  hats.  During  his  first  two  . years  in  Lynn 
he  was  located  at  No.  50  Exchange  street,  doing  business  under  the  firm  name 
of  J.  C.  Bennett  & Co.,  with  Mr.  George  E.  Barnard  as  partner.  In  1872  they 
removed  to  their  present  location  and  the  style  of  the  firm  became  J.  C.  Bennett 
& Barnard.  The  firm  has  been  progressive,  manufacturing  only  the  highest 
quality  of  goods,  which  are  put  up  in  elegant  style  and  find  their  way  into  every 
part  of  the  country.  They  have  the  happy  faculty  of  getting  along  with  their 
help,  being  the  only  firm  not  joining  in  the  lockout  of  1877-8.  Mr.  Bennett, 
while  giving  attention  to  the  details  of  his  large  business,  has  found  time  for 

extensive  travel,  and  in 
1885  obeyed  a call  from 
his  townsmen  to  serve 
them  in  the  upper  branch 
of  the  General  Court, 
where  he  made  an  hon- 
orable record. 

While  Messrs.  Ben- 
nett and  Breed  may  be 
regarded  as  fairly  repre- 
sentative of  the  successful 
shoe  manufacturers  of 
Lynn,  there  are  very 
many  others  who  have 
been  conspicuously  suc- 
cessful and  whose  names 
are  familiar  as  house- 
hold words  in  connection 
with  the  business  of  the 
town  ; and  it  is  a notice- 
able fact  that  nearly  every 
prominent  manufacturer 
in  the  city  to-day  has  ris- 
en from  small  beginnings 
to  their  present  positions 
hon.  josiah  c.  bennett.  by  their  own  efforts. 

Hon.  Amos  F.  Breed  has  for  very  many  years  been  identified  with  our 
leading  industry,  in  which  he  has  been  a conspicuous  figure.  He  also  holds  a 
high  position  in  financial  and  railroad  circles,  being  President  of  the  First  Na- 
tional Bank  and  of  the  Lynn  & Boston  Railroad.  The  first  is  the  leading  in- 
stitution of  its  class  in  Lynn,  and  the  latter,  largely  through  the  efforts  of  Mr. 
Breed,  has  been  brought  to  a high  state  of  efficiency.  Its  line  now  extends 
from  Boston  to  Marblehead. 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


145 


Mr.  John  P. Woodbury  has  for  a good  many  years  been  identified  with  real 
estate  matters  in  Lynn.  He  came  here  in  184^  from  Atkinson,  N.  II.,  and  for 
some  years  was  connected  with  J. 


Porter  Woodbury  in  the  lumber  bus- 
iness at  West  Lynn.  In  1S54  he 
opened  the  first  real  estate  and  insur- 
ance office  in  Lynn,  and  he  continued 
in  the  business  until  1867,  doing  the 
largest  business  of  any  concern  of  the 


kind  in  the  State  with  a single  ex- 
ception. In  the  latter  year  he  sold 
out  and  went  abroad  with  his  family, 
and  on  his  return  he,  with  others, 
organized  the  Exchange  Insurance 
Company,  which  was  soon  after 
removed  to  Boston.  He  served 
the  company  as  President  for  a year 
and  a half  when  he  resigned  and  has 
since  been  in  no  active  business. 

Among  the  important  local  enter- 
prises with  which  he  was  connected 
may  be  named  the  Lynn  City  Im- 
provement Company,  which  carried 
through  the  Central  Avenue  improve- 
ment, and  the  Market  Hall  Corpora-  John  p.  woodbury. 

tion,  which  built  Music  Hall,  the  building  being  used  as  a market  for  some 

years.  lie  is  the  son  of 
Rev.  John  Woo  d b u ry, 
whose  father,  John  Wood- 
bury was  for  many  years 
cpiite  a noted  builder  in 
Lynn.  I lis  residence  at  the 
foot  of  Nahant  Street,  shown 
on  page  120  is  very  pleas- 
antly situated,  commanding 
a view  of  the  entire  bay. 

The  legal  fraternity  has 
a goodly  representation  in 
Lynn,  and  members  of  that 
profession  have  at  times 
filled  many  positions  of  hon- 
or. Judge  James  R.  Xcw- 
liall  was  Justice  of  the  Lynn 
Police  Court  for  thirteen 
years,  and  for  seventeen  years 
previous  to  that  he  was 
hon.  John  r.  Baldwin.  connected  with  the  Court 


14(5 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


as  Special  Justice.  Judge  Rollin  E.  Harmon  succeeded  him  in  that  office  and 
is  the  present  incumbent.  Mr.  John  W.  Berry,  at  the  present  time  City  Solic- 
itor, has  made  an  honorable  record  in  his  conduct  of  the  legal  business  of  the  city. 

Hon.  John  R.  Baldwin  has  been  called  frequently  to  the  public  service, 
having  been  appointed  a member  of  the  school  committee  in  1879  and  served  till 
1886,  being  chairman  in  18S1-2-3.  In  1881  he  was  elected  to  the  Massachusetts 
State  Senate  and  served  three  terms,  and  in  1884  he  was  elected  Mayor  of  Lynn, 
and  served  for  the  year  1885.  He  is  a native  of  Lynn,  received  his  education 
in  the  Lynn  public  schools  and  Harvard  College,  and  has  practiced  law  here 
since  1880. 

Henry  F.  Hurlbiirt,  Esq.,  fills 
the  office  of  District  Attorney  of 
Essex  County.  He  was  born  in 
Boston  in  1853,  and  received  his 
education  in  the  common  schools 
and  Cornell  University  ; was  ad- 
mitted to  the  bar  in  1877,  an(l 
established  himself  in  Lynn  the 
same  year.  He  was  elected  Dis- 
trict Attorney  in  1SS2,  and  by  his 
able  and  impartial  administration 
of  that  responsible  office  has  won 
the  esteem  of  law  abiding  men  of 
all  parties.  His  method  of  con- 
ducting the  lawr  business  of  the 
county  has  resulted  in  practically 
taking  the  office  out  of  politics, 
and  in  the  the  November  election 
of ’86  the  public  showed  its  appre- 
ciation of  his  course  by  re-electing 
him  with  a handsome  majority. 
Though  still  a comparatively  young  man,  Mr.  Hurlhurt  has  attained  to  consider- 
able eminence  in  his  profession,  and  has  come  to  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  lead- 
ing lawyers  at  the  Essex  bar. 

The  legal  profession  now  includes  some  twenty-five  in  its  local  member- 
ship. There  was  a time,  and  that  not  so  very  long  ago,  when  they  were  not  so 
numerous.  It  was  in  1S08  that  Benjamin  Merrill  hung  out  his  modest  shingle  on 
North  Common  street.  Scarcely  however  had  he  got  his  books  in  order  when 
a deputation  of  citizens  called  upon  him  with  the  request  that  he  would 
leave  the  place.  They  feared  the  presence  of  a lawyer  in  town  would  lead 
to  strife  and  contention  among  the  people.  He  took  them  at  their  word 
and  removed  to  Salem,  where  as  a Counsellor  and  Conveyancer  he  soon  won  a 
wide  reputation,  and  in  after  years  he  reckoned  some  of  his  early  visitors  in  Lynn 
as  among  his  best  and  most  loyal  clients  ; and  he  often  laughingly  referred  to 
his  Lynn  experience  as  one  of  the  most  fortunate  occurences  of  his  life,  a 
sort  of  blessing  in  disguise,  as  it  gave  him  a celebrity  he  otherwise  might  never 
nave  obtained. 


SOME  LYNX  PEOPLE. 


147 


Hon.  George  D.  Hart,  Mayor  of  the  city,  is  one  of  the  few  young 
men  who  have  been  called  to  that  office.  Mr.  Hart  was  born  in  Malden, 
but  has  passed  most  of  his  life  in  Lynn.  At  the  age  of  17  he  enlisted  in  Co.  B, 
4th  Mass.  Heavy  Artillery,  serving  two  years  in  the  Quartermaster’s  department. 
Since  the  war  he  has  been  connected  with  different  industries  in  Lynn.  He 
served  in  the  City  Council  from  Ward  5 in  1SS5,  and  was  elected  mayor  on  the 
workingmen’s  ticket  in  December  of  that  year.  Mayor  Hart  possesses  good 
administrative  ability  and  gives  his  constant  attention  to  the  affairs  of  the  city. 


IlON.  GEORGE  D.  HART,  MAYOR. 


Hon.  Henrv  B.  Lovering  is  the  second  Lynn  man  who  has  sat  in  the  Na- 
tional Congress.  He  is  a native  of  Portsmouth,  N II.,  but  his  parents  moved 
to  Lynn  in  1S46,  when  he  was  five  years  of  age.  1 1 is  education  was  gained  in 
the  public  schools,  and  at  the  age  of  fourteen  he  began  to  work  at  the  shoema- 
ker’s trade,  and  except  the  time  spent  in  the  army,  or  the  civil  sendee  of  the  City, 
.State  or  Nation,  he  has  been  constantly  engaged  in  some  of  its  departments. 
He  entered  the  armv  at  the  outbreak  of  the  rebellion  and  served  until  the  battle 
of  Opequon  Creek,  Sept.  19,  1S64,  where  he  received  four  wounds  and  had  seven 
bullet  holes  through  his  clothing.  As  a result  of  his  wounds  he  suffered  ampu- 


148 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


tation  of  his  left  leg,  which 
ended  his  military  career,  and 
returning  home  he  went  to 
work  at  his  old  trade,  and  for 
several  years  thereafter  was 
prominently  identified  with  the 
labor  movements  in  the  city, 
and  served  on  the  first  board 
of  arbitration  that  ever  con- 
vened in  Lynn  for  the  settle- 
ment of  labor  troubles.  In 
1872  and  1874  he  was  elected 
to  the  State  Legislature ; in 
1879  he  was  elected  a member 
of  the  board  of  assessors  for 
three  years,  resigning  in  1SS0 
to  enter  upon  the  duties  of 
mayor,  in  which  office  he 
hon.  henry  b.  lovering.  served  two  years.  During  his 

incumbency  of  this  office  he  was  elected  to  represent  the  Sixth  District  in  the  48th 
Congress,  and  was  re-elected  to  the  49th.  In  both  he  has  served  on  the  Commit- 
tees on  Labor  and  Invalid  Pensions,  positions  for  which  he  is  particularly  adapted. 

Mr.  Charles  O. 

Becde  is  a represen- 
tative man  in  a line  of 
business  which  has 
during  the  past  ten 
years  attained  much 
importance  as  collat- 
eral to  our  leading  in- 
dustry. In  his  early 
life  he  learned  every 
detail  of  the  shoe- 
maker’s art  by  hard 
work  in  the  factory, 
and  from  1S65  to  1S72 
he  was  engaged  suc- 
cessfully in  the  manu- 
facture of  shoes,  when 
ill  health  compelled 
him  to  give  up  bus- 
iness for  a season.  In 
1S74  he  began  the 
manufacture  and  sale 
of  shoe  manufacturers’ 
supplies,  being  one  of 
the  pioneers  in  this  Charles  o.  beede. 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


149 


special  branch,  and  his  factory  on  Union  street  is  one  of  the  most  important 
concerns  of  its  kind  in  New  England.  Mr.  Beede  is  also  largely  interested  in 
real  estate.  He  served  in  the  Board  of  Aldermen  in  18S1  and  1SS2,  and  headed 
the  citizens’  ticket  for  mayor  in  1884—5. 

Col.  Gardiner  Tufts  has  been  more  widely  and  generally  known  perhaps, 
from  the  nature  of  his  public  service  during  and  since  the  late  war,  than  any 
other  son  of  Lynn.  He  was  born  in  this  city  July  3,  182S,  and  is  a lineal  de- 
scendant of  Edmund  Ingalls,  the  first  settler  of  Lynn  ; received  his  education  in 
our  schools,  and  learned  the  trade  of  shoemaking  ; subsequently  that  of  shoe  tool 
maker  and  wood  turner,  and  he  was  occupied  in  these  industries  until  he  entered 
the  public  service  nearly  twenty-six  years  ago,  in  which  he  has  since  continued. 
In  1S60  and  ’6 1 he  represented  Lynn  in  the  Legislature,  and  in  the  latter  year  en- 
tered the  postal  service  in  Washington,  where  he  remained  until  in  1S62  he  was 
appointed  by  Governor  Andrew,  Massachusetts  State  Agent  at  Washington,  in 
which  position  he  served  until  1S70,  and  continued  as  State  Agent  in  the  business 
of  soldiers’  claims  until  1876.  The  duties  of  the  position  of  State  Agent  during 
the  war  were  ardu- 


ous and  important, 
having  oversight  of 
sick,  wounded  and 
dead  Massachusetts 
soldiers  of  the  Army 
of  the  Potomac,  and 
more  especially  the 
inmates  of  the  hospi- 
tals of  Washington  ; 
and  the  agent  to 
an  extent  conduc- 
ted the  business  of 
the  state  with  the 
general  government. 

During  the  war  the 
agency  had  more  or 
less  to  do  with  more 
than  thirty  thousand 
sick,  wounded  or 
dead  Massachusetts 
soldiers,  received 
and  answered  fifty 
thousand  letters,  be- 
sides telegrams ; and 
in  fulfilling  these  du-  coe.  gardiner  tufts. 


ties  Col.  Tufts  had  at  times  a paid  corps  of  assistants  sometimes  numbering 
eighteen  persons.  The  agent  also  established  a bureau  for  the  collection  of 
soldiers  pay,  bounties  and  pensions  without  charge  to  them.  More  than  a mil- 
lion dollars  were  thus  collected,  and  besides  he  collected  from  the  general  gov- 
ernment war  claims  on  behalf  of  the  state  aggregating  more  than  $1,200,000. 


150 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Col.  Tufts  also  served  on  a board  appointed  by  Secretary  Stanton  for  the  inspec. 
tion  of  military  hospitals  and  prisons  in  the  Department  of  Washington,  and 
subsequently  Gov.  Andrew  appointed  him  Assistant  Provost  Marshal  with  the 
rank  of  Lieut.  Col.,  with  a staff  of  military  officers  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting 
men  in  the  rebellious  states  to  the  credit  of  the  loyal  states.  He  had  under  his 
charge  the  District  of  Northeast  Virginia.  In  1869  Gov.  Claflin  appointed  him 
Visiting  Agent  of  the  Board  of  State  Charities,  and  for  Juvenile  Offenders,  in 
which  relation  he  continued  for  ten  years.  After  the  consolidation  of  the  Board 
of  .State  Charities  and  the  Board  of  Health,  Col.  Tufts  was  appointed  Steward 
and  Treasurer  of  the  Reformatory  Prison  for  Women,  and  in  December  of  the 
same  year  was  elected  .Superintendent  of  the  State  Primary  School  at  Monson, 
which  position  he  held  five  years,  when  he  resigned  to  accept  the  superinten- 
dency of  the  new  Massachusetts  Reformatory  at  Concord,  which  position  he  now 
holds.  He  has  been  a state  delegate  to  the  Prison  Congress  and  Conference  of 
Charities  held  in  Cincinnati,  New  York,  Cleveland,  Madison  and  Detroit,  and  a 
paper  upon  the  Massachusetts  Visiting  Agency  and  Juvenile  Offender  System, 
read  by  him  at  Cleveland,  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  Howard  Association 
in  London,  was  there  favorably  received  and  led  to  the  adoption  of  some  Massa- 
chusetts features  in  England  and  her  provinces.  In  the  political  and  municipal 
affairs  of  Lynn  Col.  Tufts  has  borne  his  part,  having  been  Inspector,  Clerk,  and 
Warden  of  Ward  6,  and  at  different  times  member  of  the  Common  Council  and 

Board  of  Aldermen  ; and  was  for 
several  years  Chairman  of  the  Re- 
publican City  Committee.  It  is 
not  often  that  a man  is  permitted  to 
serve  the  public  in  such  important 
relations  for  so  long  a time,  but  in 
all  these  positions  Col.  Tufts  has 
acquitted  himself  with  credit  both 
to  himself  and  to  his  native  town. 

General  B.  F.  Peach  is  a na- 
tive of  Marblehead,  where  he  passed 
his  early  life.  From  1 S5G  till  1S7S, 
excepting  the  time  he  served  in  the 
army,  he  was  connected  with  the 
shoe  manufacturing  firm  of  W.  T. 
Haskell  in  the  successive  capacities 
of  journeyman,  foreman,  and  part- 
ner. He  manifested  in  early  youth 
an  ardent  fondness  for  military  af- 
fairs, and  at  the  breaking  out  of  the 
war  of  the  rebellion  was  First  Sergeant  of  the  Marblehead  Light  Infantry, 
and  served  with  that  company  in  the  famous  Eighth  Regiment  during  the  three 
months  campaign.  lie  was  promoted  First  Lieut,  of  the  same  company  March 
1S62,  and  was  appointed  Adjutant  of  the  Eighth  Regiment  in  August  of  the 
same  year.  lie  was  with  the  regiment  during  its  nine  months  service  in  the 
Department  of  North  Carolina  and  in  the  Army  of  the  Potomac.  He  was  com- 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


151 


missioned  Colonel  of  the  same  regiment  vin  July,  1S64,  being  then  but  twentv- 
five  years  of  age,  and  was  discharged  at  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  service  in 
November,  1S64.  lie  continued  in  command  of  the  regiment  as  a portion  of 
the  volunteer  militia  of  the  state  until  February,  1882,  a period  of  more  than 
seventeen  years,  when  he  was  promoted  Brigadier  General  of  the  Second  Brig- 
ade, and  is  at  this  time  next  commanding  officer  in  rank  to  the  Governor  and 
Commander  in  Chief,  enjoying  the  confidence  and  respect  of  the  officers  and 
men  of  his  command  as  well  as  the  people  of  the  state  at  large. 

In  1866  Gen.  Peach  removed  to  Lynn  from  Marblehead,  and  in  1S79  he 
was  elected  City  Treasurer  and  Collector  of  Taxes,  in  which  position  he  re- 
mained until  1SS5,  when  he  resigned  to  take  the  position  of  U.  S.  Pension 
Agent  at  Boston,  tendered  him  by  President  Cleveland. 

Hon.  Frank  D.  Allen, 
though  yet  a comparatively 
young  man,  has  attained  to 
considerable  p r ominence 
both  in  his  profession  of  the 
law  and  in  political  life.  He 
is  a native  of  Worcester,  born 
in  1S50,  graduated  from  Yale 
College  in  1S73  and  was  ad- 
mitted to  the  Suffolk  bar  in 
1S76.  He  has  resided  in 
Lynn  since  his  marriage  to 
Miss  Lucy  R.,  daughter  of 
Trevett  Rhodes,  in  1877. 

In  18S0  and  18S1  he  repre- 
sented Ward  5 in  the  Gene- 
ral Court,  and  in  1885  he 
was  elected  to  represent  the 
fifth  councillor  district  in  the 
Governor’s  Council,  where 
he  sen  es  upon  the  Commit- 
tees on  Railroads  and  Iloosac 
Tunnel,  Charitable  Institu- 
tions, Prisons  and  Warrants.  He  has  also,  for  two  years,  served  on  the  Repub- 
lican State  Central  Committee.  While  giving  some  attention  to  politics  he  has 
attained  success  in  his  profession,  and  as  counsel  for  the  Lancaster  Bank  he  un- 
ravelled the  tangled  affairs  of  that  institution,  recovered  the  stolen  securities  and 
secured  the  indictment  of  the  principle  conspirators. 

Capt.  John  G.  B.  Adams  was  born  in  Groveland,  Mass.,  Oct.  6,  1841,  and 
passed  his  boyhood  and  youth  in  that  locality,  and  in  the  early  summer  of  1861 
enlisted  in  Maj.  Ben  : Perley  Poore’s  Rifle  Battalion  which  later  became  the  nu- 
cleus of  the  19th  Mass.  Regiment.  He  served  through  the  war,  rising  rapidly 
to  the  rank  of  Captain.  He  participated  in  every  march,  and  was  engaged  in 
every  battle  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac  in  which  his  regiment  took  part.  At 
Fredericksburg  he  saved  the  colors  of  his  regiment  from  capture  after  eight  color 


HON.  FRANK  D.  ALLEN. 


152 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


bearers  had  been  killed.  He 
was  twice  severely  wounded  in 
the  second  day’s  fight  of  Gettys- 
burg, and  while  in  the  advanced 
lines  before  Petersburg  on  the 
22(1  of  June,  1864,  he  was  cap- 
tured with  his  regiment,  and 
for  nine  months  suffered  the 
miseries  of  a southern  prison 
pen.  After  the  war  he  was  for 
some  years  foreman  in  the  fac- 
tory of  B.  F.  Doak  & Co.,  but 
on  account  of  failing  health  he 
resigned  that  position  to  enter 
the  Inspector’s  office  in  the  Bos- 
ton Custom  House.  He  re- 
mained there  some  fifteen 
months,  when  he  was  appointed 
Postmaster  at  Lynn,  which  of- 
fice he  held  eight  years.  On  the 
establishment  of  the  Reforma- 
tory Prison  at  Concord  he  was 
appointed  Deputy  Warden,  and  at  the  last  session  of  the  General  Court  he  was 
appointed  to  the  office  of  Sergeant  at  Arms,  which  important  position  he  now 
most  acceptably  fills.  Capt.  Adams  was  the  first  recruit  mustered  into  Post  5, 
G.  A.  R.  He  was  three  times  chosen  commander,  and  was  for  one  year  De- 
partment Commander  of  Massachusetts, 
of  the  association  of  Survivors  of  Rebel  . 
of  Trustees  of  the  Soldiers’  Home.  He 
has  also  been  connected  with  numerous 
local  enterprises,  having  been  one  of  the 
incorporators  of  the  Lynn  Hospital, 

Lynn  Electric  Co.,  and  also  of  the  Thom- 
son-Houston  Electric  Light  Co. 

Mr.  William  A.  Clark,  Jr.,  was 
born  in  Newark,  N.  J.,  June  9,  1852. 
lie  served  an  apprenticeship  in  the  jew- 
elry business,  and  came  to  Lynn  in  1S73. 

Three  years  later  he  engaged  in  the  jew- 
elry business  which  he  continued  success- 
fully until  1SS6.  In  1 SSo  he  was  elected  a 
member  of  the  School  Board,  and  took  a 
prominent  part  in  re-establishing  the  eve-  / 
ning  schools.  In  1SS5  lie  was  elected  a 
member  of  the  General  Court  and  served 
on  the  Railroad  Committe  of  which  he 
; was  clerk,  and  was  re-elected  to  the 


He  has  been  for  eight  years  president 
Tisons,  and  is  chairman  of  the  Board 


W.  A.  CLARK,  JR. 


SOME  LYNN  PEOPLE. 


153 


legislature  of  1SS7.  Mr.  Clark  was  a faithful  worker  and  an  efficient  mem- 
ber. He  has  lately  disposed  of  his  business  in  Lynn  and  engaged  in  some 
public  enterprises  of  considerable  importance. 

David  Walker  was  born  in 
the  village  of  Troynholm,  Scotland, 

Aug.  3,  1841,  and  came  to  this 
country  when  ten  years  of  age.  In 
the  winter  of  1856  he  came  to  Lynn 
to  engage  in  the  leading  industry 
©f  the  place.  During  the  war  he 
served  as  private  in  the  53d  Regi- 
ment Massachusetts  Volunteers  and 
the  4th  Massachusetts  Heavy  Artil- 
lery. He  was  a charter  member  of 
Post  5,  G.  A.  R.,  and  has  been  prom- 
inent and  active  in  the  general  work 
of  the  order.  Mr.  Walker  has  also 
been  an  efficient  member  of  the  order 
of  Odd  Fellows,  being  a Past  Grand 
of  West  Lynn  Lodge.  In  1SS5  he 
was  elected  to  the  General  Court 
from  Ward  6,  serving  on  the  Com- 
mittee on  Labor,  and  his  work  in 
that  body  has  bfeen  endorsed  by  a david  walker. 

re-election  to  the  legislature  of  18S7.  In  every  position  to  which  he  has 
been  called  Mr.  Walker  has  brought  the  qualities  of  steady  faithfulness  and 
uprightness. 

Hon.  Frank  W.  Jones  is  a native 
of  Stoughton,  Mass.,  born  in  1855, 
and  was  educated  in  the  public 
schools  of  the  town.  lie  came  to 
Lynn  in  1872,  and  has  followed  the 
trade  of  shoemaking.  lie  was  elec- 
ted as  Representative  to  the  General 
Court  in  1SS4,  and  in  1SS5  was 
chosen  to  the  Senate,  being  next  to 
the  youngest  member  of  that  body, 
lie  rendered  efficient  service,  being 
especially  prominent  in  advocating 
the  abolition  of  the  Contract  Convict 
Labor  System.  Mr.  Jones  has  been 
an  active  member  of  the  labor  organi- 
zations of  the  city,  and  his  efforts  in 
legislative  matters  have  been  to  better 
the  condition  of  his  fellow  workmen 
so  far  as  this  can  be  done  by  legislative 
enactment.  He  was  also  re-elected 
to  the  Senate  of  1SS7. 


HON.  FRANK  W.  JONES. 


154 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


Horace  A.  Roberts  was  born  in 
Sandwich,  N.  H.,  Aug.  15,  1853, 
but  has  been  a resident  of  Lynn 
most  of  his  life.  He  was  educated 
in  the  public  schools,  and  after  leav- 
ing school,  worked  for  several  years 
in  the  shoe  business  and  the  ice 
business  with  his  father,  and  in  1881 
became  a member  of  the  firm  of  B. 
F.  Roberts  & Son.  He  has  given 
much  of  his  time  to  temperance 
work,  attained  the  high  degree  of 
Grand  Worthy  Patriarch  in  the  Sons 
of  Temperance.  He  was  but  26 
years  of  age  at  the  time  and  was  the 
youngest  man  ever  chosen  to  that 
office.  He  has  also  been  prominent 
in  the  Independent  Order  of  Odd 
Fellows.  He  was  chosen  to  repre- 
sent the  Tenth  Essex  District  in  the 
General  Court  in  1885,  serving  with 
Horace  a.  Roberts.  much  credit  on  the  Committee  on 

Public  Charitable  Institutions.  He  was  re-elected  in  1886. 

We  are  now  at  the  end  of  our  sight  seeing  in  Lynn,  having  traced 
the  progress  of  the  city  from  the  early  settlement  in  the  Saugus  forest  to  the 
modern,  thriving  busy  city,  walked  up  and  down  her  streets,  viewed  her  nat- 
ural and  artificial  beauties  and  attractions,  examined  into  the  public  and 
charitable  institutions,  visited  her  churches,  and  been  introduced  to  some  of 
her  leading  citizens  representing  nearly  every  walk  of  life.  In  our  excursion, 
as  was  inevitable  from  the  nature  of  it,  very  many  things  which  it  would  have 
been  both  a pleasure  and  a profit  to  have  seen  have  been  passed  by,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  the  casual  acquaintance  thus  gained  may  prove  pleasant  and  lead  to 
a closer  knowledge  and  broader  appreciation  of  our  goodly  city.  Thanks  are 
due  the  reader  for  his  kind  and  genial  companionship  thus  far,  and  before  the 
final  parting  we  would  invite  him  to  a flying  trip  to  the  Surroundings  of  Lynn. 


Surroundings, 


/CONSCIOUS  of  her  age  and  dignity,  Lynn  sits  proudly  in  her  beautiful 

home  by  the  sparkling  bay,  a mature  and  stately  matron,  with  her  five 
AA  grown  up  daughters  happily  settled  around  her.  Reading,  settled  by  Lynn 
Y J people  in  1639,  *s  t^ie  eldest  of  the  family.  Her  original  territory  was  four 
miles  square,  beautifully  situated  and  possessing  many  natural  advantages,  but 
the  inhabitants  early  lost  the  home  feeling,  and  set  up  an  establishment  of  their 
own. 

Lynnfield,  for  many  years  called  “ Lynn  End,”  is  the  second  child.  The 
inhabitants  of  Lynn  with  their  original  8680  acres,  feeling  somewhat  crowded, 
were  granted  4‘  six  miles  into  the  country,”  and  an  inland  plantation  was 
forthwith  begun.  This  occurred  soon  after  the  settlement  of  the  town.  The 
Second  Parish  was  set  off  in  1712,  and  the  town  was  incorporated  one  hundred 
and  two  years  after.  A summer  drive  to  Lynnfield  takes  one  out  through 
pleasant  suburban  Wyoma,  along  by  numerous  pleasant  ponds  and  deep 
ravines  on  this  side  and  on  that,  and  shadowy  woods,  sweet  with  the  smell 
of  pine  and  juniper.  Lynnfield  Village  is  a pleasant  place,  with  a good  hotel, 
a few  small  manufactures,  stores  and  other  paraphernalia  of  a well-to-do  country 
place.  The  farms  which  lie  about  the  village  are  fertile  and  well  tilled.  A 
branch  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  gives  quick  communication  with  the 
busy  world,  and  taken  all  in  all  this  second  of  Lynn’s  daughters  is  well  and 
comfortably  settled  in  life. 

Saugus,  called  by  the  maiden  name  of  the  parent  town,  was  set  off  as  the 
Third  Parish,  and  attained  to  the  dignity  of  a meetinghouse  of  her  own  in  1736, 
but  remained  under  the  maternal  wing  until  1815,  when  she  was  incorporated 


156 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


FRANKLIN  SQUARE,  EAST  SAUGUS. 

as  a town.  The  Saugus  river — the  Indian  Abousett — and  the  marsh — the  Rum* 
ney  marsh  of  the  early  settlers — divide  the  town  into  unequal  parts,  in  each  of 
which  are  many  pleasant  residences  and  fertile  and  well  cultivated  farms,  and 
there  are  also  manufactures  of  considerable  importance.  There  are  three  pleas- 
ant villages  in  the  town — East  Saugus,  Saugus  Center,  and  Cliftondalc — each 
with  its  peculiar  attractions,  and  numerous  pleasant  spots  which  are  sought  out 
by  picnic  parties  ; and  the  Franklin  Park  is  a favorite  place  for  the  trials  of 


LOOKING  DOWN  LINCOLN  AVENUE,  EAST  SAUGUS. 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


157 


equine  speed  and  mettle.  There  are  many  points  of  historical  interest,  among 
which  may  be  named  the  old  Iron  Works,  the  first  in  the  new  world  ; the  Pi- 
rates’ Glen,  the  site  of  the  Old  Anchor  Tavern,  for  many  years  the  chief  hostelry 
of  the  whole  region  round  about ; and  on  Lincoln  avenue  was  the  old  Ballard 
Tavern,  also  a favorite  inn.  The  site  is  now  occupied  by  the  residence  of  W. 
F.  Newhall,  Esq.,  but  the  old  building  is  still  standing  a little  farther  down 
Ballard  street. 

The  region  round  about  Lynn  abounds  in  beautiful  drives.  Good  country 
roads  radiate  from  the  city  in  all  directions  and  in  a very  short  time  after  leaving 


HUNTERS*  CABIN,  NEAR  FLAX  POND. 

Central  square  one  may  find  himself  w here — 

“ Kind  nature  shuffling  in  her  loose  undress, 

Lays  bare  her  shady  bosom,” 

and  if  the  tourist  has  been  shut  up  for  a season  within  city  w alls,  he  may  echo 
the  sentiment  of  the  remaining  lines  of  the  stanza — 

“ I can  feel 

With  all  around  me;  I can  hail  the  flowers 
That  sprig  earth’s  mantle;  and  yon  quiet  bird 
That  rides  the  stream  is  to  me  as  a brother. 

The  vulgar  know  not  all  the  pockets 
Where  nature  stows  away  her  loveliness.” 

Swampscott,  the  fourth  of  Lynn’s  fair  daughters,  sits  dreamily  by  the  sea, 
spreading  her  snowy  skirts  out  on  this  side  and  on  that  even  dowrn  to  the  salty 
rim  of  the  ocean.  The  few  picturesque  old  fish  houses  along  the  shore  and  the 
score  of  dories  drawn  up  on  the  sands,  with  here  and  there  a siene  spread  out 
to  dry,  are  but  faint  reminders  of  the  time  w'hen  this  was  the  most  important 
fishing  town  on  the  New'  England  coast.  Now',  however,  the  entire  shore  down 
almost  to  the  Marblehead  line  has  been  captured  by'  the  summer  resident,  and 
the  numerous  tasteful  cottages  and  beautiful  villas  which  crow'n  every  eligible 


158 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


SWAMPSCOTT. 


spot,  in  summer  teem  with  gay  and  fashionable  life,  but  in  the  winter  present  a 
formidable  array  of  shuttered  windows,  the  summer  birds  having  flown  back  to 


LINCOLN  HOUSE,  SWAMPSCOTT. 


their  winter  homes.  This  is  true  however  only  of  that  portion  of  the  towi 
which  lies  along  the  shore.  The  inland  section  is  very  much  like  other  towns 
and  were  it  not  for  the  name  could  hardly  be  distinguished  from  the  parent  city 
Nahant,  the  youngest  of  the 
family,  was  gifted  both  with 
beauty  and  wilful  originality. 

While  her  sisters  seem  to  have 
been  content  to  settle  down  to 
quiet  lives  on  the  shore,  this  one 
appears  to  have  tried  to  run  away  to 
sea,  but  found  herself  held  back  by  the  *!< 
shining  white  maternal  apron  string. 

1 he  beauties  both  of  form  and  situ-  " 


ation  of  these  twin  islets  has  challenged  the 


BAILEY'S  HILL,  NAHANT. 


LYNX  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


150 


tdmiration  of  all  who  have  come  to  know  them.  The  Indians  gave  her  one  of 
the  prettiest  names  of  their  language,  44  Nahanteau.”  The  legend  relates  that 
Thorwald,  the  sturdy  Norse  adventurer,  the  first  white  man  who  approached 
these  shores,  at  once  became  enamored  of  her  beauty,  and  striking  his  spear 
into  her  virgin  bosom  exclaimed  44  Here  it  is  beautiful,  and  here  I would  like  to 
fix  my  dwelling.”  The  legend  goes  on  to  state  that  an  Indian  arrow  helped  him 
to  the  attainment  of  his  desire  in  an  unexpected  and  unpleasant  fashion,  and  that 
his  bones  now  mingle  with  her  soil  in  some  unmarked  spot. 

The  early  settlers  seem  to  have  been  chiefly  attacted  by  its  economical  ad- 
vantages as  a cow  pasture,  no  fence  being  required  except  across  the  beach, 
until  Edward  Randolph  became  infatuated  with  its  beauty,  and  undertook  to 
wrest  it  from  them.  Then  an  idea  of  the  value  of  the  gift  of  the  dusky  Duke 
William  suddenly  dawned  upon  them,  and  they  arose  as  one  man  to  defend 
their  common  property.  Thomas  Dexter  saw  the  possibilities  of  gain  in  the 
fair  domain,  and  doubtless  thought  a suit  of  clothes  a cheap  enough  price 
for  it,  but  it  proved  otherwise,  for  instead  of  the  Nahants  he  got  only  a trouble- 
some and  unfortunate  suit  at  law,  and  the  only  one  who  seems  to  have  profited 
by  the  trade  was  the  wily  Indian  who  got  the  new  suit.  In  later  years  the 
beautiful  peninsula  was  again  coveted,  and  this  time  gained,  and  the  new  pro- 
prietors guard  the  approaches  to  their  summer  homes  so  closely  that  the  public 


can  gain  a foothold  only  in  isolated  places — the  Maolis  Gardens  on  the  north 
side  and  Bass  Point  on  the  south.  The  Nahantese  cling  to  their  acres  with  a 
grip  that  cash  in  hand  has  no  power  to  unloose,  and  if  ever  Nahant  becomes  a 
popular  resort  the  traditions  of  half  a century  will  have  to  be  reversed. 

The  beauties  of  this  spot  have  been  sung  by  so  many  gifted  tongues  that  we 
need  do  nothing  more  here  than  to  point  to  the  accompanying  chart.  “If,” 
says  N.  P.  Willis,  “you  can  imagine  a buried  Titan  lying  along  the  length 
of  a continent,  with  one  arm  stretched  out  into  the  midst  of  the  sea,  the  spot  to 
to  which  I would  transport  you,  reader  mine,  would  be,  as  it  were,  to  the  palm 


160 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


of  the  giant’s  hand.”  Whittier  also  addressed  one  of  his  earliest  poetic  produc- 
tions to  this  charming  spot. 

Nahant,  thy  beach  is  beautiful ! — 

A dim  line  through  the  tossing  waves, 

Along  whose  verge  the  spectre  gull 
Her  thin  and  snowy  plumage  laves. — 


What  time  the  summer’s  greenness  lingers 
Within  thy  sunned  and  sheltered  nooks. 
And  the  green  vine  with  twining  fingers 
Creeps  up  and  down  thy  hanging  rocks ! 


Around — the  blue  and  level  main — 
Above — a sunshine  rich,  as  fell 
Bright’ning  of  old,  with  golden  rain. 

The  isle  Apollo  loved  so  well. 
***** 

But  fairer  shores  and  brighter  waters, 
Gazed  on  by  purer,  lovelier  daughters, 
Beneath  the  light  of  kindlier  skies, 
The  wanderer  to  the  furthest  bound 
Of  peopled  earth  hath  never  found 
Than  thine — New  England’s  Paradise  ! 


LYNN  AND  NAHANT. 


Nahant  has  always  been  a favorite  resort  for  those  of  refined  literary  tastes  ; 
there  being  something  in  its  peaceful,  quiet  life  and  the  character  of  its  scenery 
which  prompts  genius  to  its  best  efforts  Longfellow  constantly  came  hither  for 
rest  and  inspiration.  A part  of  u Hiawatha”  was  written  here,  and  u The 


LYNN  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


1«1 


Bells  of  Lynn,”  and  u The  Ladder  of  St.  Augustine  ” here  found  their  birthplace, 
and  many  others  of  his  lyrics  in  which  the  presence  of  the  sea  is  felt  by  the 
reader,  were  also  written  here  under  its  influence.  In  the  Hood  Cottage,  Motley 
begun  his  “ Dutch  Republic a little  beyond  stood  the  cottage  where  Prescott 
worked  at  “ Ferdinand  and  Isabella,”  and  “ The  Conquest  of  Mexico  ;”  on  the 
point  beyond,  Agassiz  produced  his  “ Brazil ;”  and  Willis,  Curtis,  Mrs.  Sigour- 
ney, and  a host  of  lesser  celebrities  have  sought  and  found  its  magnetic  inspira- 
tion. And  one  of  her  own  sons,  Henry  Cabot  Lodge,  has  well  nigh  overturned 
many  of  the  accepted  conceptions  of  early  colonial  characters  by  his  research  and 
keen  analysis.  Longfellow  and  Prescott  loved  best  the  southern  shore,  but 
Agassiz  chose  the  northern  side. 

The  admirably  kept  roads  lead  to  where  the  most  pleasing  sea  views  are  to 
be  had.  Notwithstanding  the  horse  car  is  stopped  at  the  town  line,  and  the  excur- 
sion steamer  is  warned  off  shore,  if  one  can  brave  the  jolting  of  a barge,  or  better 
still,  command  a private  conveyance,  the  wondrous  beauties  of  the  ragged  riven 
shores  may  be  easily  reached.  It  almost  takes  one’s  breath  away  to  watch  and 
almost  feel  the  mighty  rush  and  roar  of  the  eternal  surges  among  the  resounding 
sides  of  these  cliffs  and  caverns.  The  tawney  rocks  wear  coats  of  grass-green 
velvet  above  the  water  line,  and  the  nodding  plumes  of  the  sweet  fern  and  col- 
umbine wave  from  the  niches  and  hollows  where  they  can  gain  a foothold.  The 
sea  gulls  sail  through  the  air  over  our  heads  or  swoop  upon  their  prey  almost  at 
our  feet,  and  the  white  sails  of  the  numerous  water-craft  pass  and  repass  before 
our  view.  Midway  between  us  and  the  Swampscott  shore,  rising  sturdily  above 
the  waves  which  dash  around  it,  stands  Egg  Rock,  as  fair  in  the  sunlight  as 
when  the  ardent  youth  sought  to  pluck  from  it  the  Floure  of  Souvenance  for 
his  Lady  Alice  who  was  seated,  perchance,  on  the  same  promontory  on  which 
we  are.  And  with  this  quiet  scene  before  the  view  we  bid  farewell  to  the 
friends  who  have  accompanied  us  thus  far  in  our  excursions  in  Lynn  and 
Surroundings. 


■ 





